Nikon Shooter
Member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2004
- Messages
- 36
I ordered a Belt Mountain base pin, spring kit, and free spin pawl for my SBH Hunter awhile back, and decided to install everything myself.... I have never had a SA revolver apart (until today) and could use a little help so that I get everything reassembled correctly....
First of all, I am using the instructions that came with the pawl, and I am also using my owners manual for reassembly. My first question is, once I get the hammer/pawl and trigger/transfer bar in the frame will it matter what position the loading gate is in (open or closed) before reinstalling the cylinder latch and gate detent spring as well as both hammer and trigger pivot pins?
Next, as long as the lowest point of the pawl does not stick below the frame line, and when bottom/back side of the pawl contacts the lower rear frame slot and if at this point the teeth are retracted from the window, then everything should be good to go with no reason to have to remove any material?
Last (for now), the mainspring...... Sometime back, on my first attempt at field stripping a 1911 style .45, I let the wrench slip off the barrel bushing and got to witness first hand the recoil spring/plug break the sound barrier 8 inches from my face before slamming into the ceiling.... To this day, I still have a good laugh over that one, but I'm very thankful it hit the ceiling rather then my face.... Needless to say, since the .45 incident, I have been somewhat leary with anything under pressure. Could someone please recommend a safe way to relieve the tension so I can get the nail out and replace the mainspring?
Many thanks in advance for your help!
First of all, I am using the instructions that came with the pawl, and I am also using my owners manual for reassembly. My first question is, once I get the hammer/pawl and trigger/transfer bar in the frame will it matter what position the loading gate is in (open or closed) before reinstalling the cylinder latch and gate detent spring as well as both hammer and trigger pivot pins?
Next, as long as the lowest point of the pawl does not stick below the frame line, and when bottom/back side of the pawl contacts the lower rear frame slot and if at this point the teeth are retracted from the window, then everything should be good to go with no reason to have to remove any material?
Last (for now), the mainspring...... Sometime back, on my first attempt at field stripping a 1911 style .45, I let the wrench slip off the barrel bushing and got to witness first hand the recoil spring/plug break the sound barrier 8 inches from my face before slamming into the ceiling.... To this day, I still have a good laugh over that one, but I'm very thankful it hit the ceiling rather then my face.... Needless to say, since the .45 incident, I have been somewhat leary with anything under pressure. Could someone please recommend a safe way to relieve the tension so I can get the nail out and replace the mainspring?
Many thanks in advance for your help!