Need help with an over-tightened action screw

[nico]

I've read a few places that action screws on a bolt action should be torqued to 65in-lbs, so I bought a torque wrench to use with my new HS Precision stock for my Ruger M77 mkII. When torquing the rear action screw (which goes through the rear of the trigger guard and the tang section of the action), the torque wrench never stopped at the correct torque (and I, like an idiot, didn't realize it), so I'm now stuck with a screw that I can't get out. I've also managed to round off part of the head of the screw (slotted head).

I'm sure (I hope) I'm not the only person who's done something dumb like this, so I'd like to hear any suggestions for how to get the screw out.

I'd also like to know if anyone knows where I can get stainless allen head screws to replace the factory slotted screws.

 

[MikeG]

There's a tool called an "EZ-Out" or stuck screw extractor you can use to get the old screw out. You drill a pilot hole in the screw and turn the EZ-Out into it. The reverse threads grip the screw and twist it out, hopefully.


About replacement screws, there should be someone like Brownells that has them.

 

[ranger335v]

If you have access to a drill press I think it might be better to remove the head of the screw rather than using an EzyOut on it.

Carefully vise the rifle vertically and horizontally and drill a well centered small starter/guide hole first, like 1/16", perhaps 1/4" deep. Carefully follow that with a 1/4" or , even better, a 9/32" bit and drill until the screw head spins off. Remove the rifle from the stock and use vise-grip pliers to turn the remaining stub out.

Get a new torque wrench and limit the rear screw to maybe 35-40 in/lb. The tang screw need not be nearly as tight as the ring screw for good results. In fact, torquing so hard at both ends will almost certainly bend the action a bit due to wood compresson.

 

[rockstar.esq]

Brownells sells a jig which essentially clamps the screwdriver into the screw head thereby preventing any form of slippage. I've had extremely mixed results with easy outs. Most of the time they just can't apply enough torque to effectively remove the screw/ bolt. If possible, try to heat the metal around the screw as the expansion makes it much much easier to unscrew.

 

[nico]

Thanks for the replies. One of the problems is that the screw is recessed into the trigger guard, so something that clamps to the head probably won't work. I'm going to try removing the head of the screw with a dental handpiece in an hour or so (my dad's a dentist). I'll report back as to how it worked.

Does anyone know about interchangeability of screws between the different Ruger bolt actions? I've looked at brownells, and they list a set of screws with socket heads for the M77, but don't specify Mk I or II. Looking at the other replacement screws, some part numbers seem to be the same between the MkI and II, but others aren't, and there doesn't seem to be much order to it (ie: a stainless screw is the same part number for both models, but the blued screws for the same position have different part numbers).

Does anyone know if the above screw set will work with my M77 Mk II and/or if anyone sells a similar set (allen head) but with stainless screws?

eta: are stainless socket head screws a generic-type thing I could order through a gunsmith?