Need Powder/Primer recommendations

[JohnMcD348]

OK, I just got all my new toys to begin reloading and I am looking for recommendations on the best powder and primers to get to begin with. I've put together a list of the calibers I'll be reloading and would like you folks who have the experience to give me a shopping list of sorts. I'm not looking to build super accurate loads (yet) but I am more concerned with general accuracy, pratice loads that burn cleanly(relatively) and won't leave me covered in unburned powder after maybe half a day at the range. I will be reloading to begin with:

.45ACP (SA 1911A1 Govt 5")
.380ACP (Walther PPK/S)
.38/.357 S&W 4" 686-3 (old school 6 shot)

For the Autoloaders, I'll be buying and loading 230gr and 90gr FMJ for the most part and the Revolver, I pretty much plan on probably just getting Lead in either Round Nose or Semi-WadCutter types, probably 125gr to 150gr size. I've already got the brass from previous boxes bought and scavanged back from the range so I'm good for that part at the moment. Most of it is Winchester from the WWB ammo I get at Wal-Mart. the .38/.357 is a mix of various stuff I've collected over the years but mostly Remington and Winchester.

Anything else I need to include to help get the info I need please ask. You folks have been a great help to me and I greatly appreciate it.

Thanks

 

[BsChoy]

My load for my G21 is 4.5-4.6 grains of Red Dot under a 230 fmj Ranier. Mild and relativley clean for a light load. Red Dot is a flake powder though and alot of guys seem to like ball powder like W231 IIRC. Haven't tried any ball powders yet but will prob switch to HP-38 down the road. As far as the others go I have never loaded them. I'm sure someone will pipe up soon though.

Primers I use standard winchester LP primers. No issues in the few hundred I have use this far. i would use fed but they are as hard to find as hens teeth nowadays

 

[bugs100]

I like W231 and Winchester primers for those calibers.

This site www.handloads.org along with Hogdon and Alliant are my favorite reloading sites.

I've stopped buying all the expensize books because you can get the same information on line.

 

[Walkalong]

W231 will work for all three. (.38 type loads in the .357) AA #5 is a good choice here and will do a bit better in the .357. Universal Clays is another good choice and will do pretty well in the .357. Ditto Unique, although I don't use it.

If you want full power .357 loads as well as .38 type loads in it you will need two powders.

W231 / W296

AA# 5 / AA #9

Universal Clays / H110

Unique / Blue Dot

And or any combo of the first and second powders.

 

[JohnMcD348]

Thanks for the info guys. I really appreciate it. I guess I'm looking to make as nearly as possible plain factory loads. I've read in other forums that the Walther doesn't really like reloads but has yetr to misfire with the factory stuff. I haven't even started reloading yet and most of the equipment is still in the box. Once I get used to it and gain ALOT of experience, then I might eventually start working up and tailoring loads for the individual firearms but for right now, I just want a clean burning(as much as possible anyway) round that's as close to the factory plain jane stuff that I buy off the shelf.

 

[TechAlG]

I like the Universal in my .38 loads. I use 4.5 gr under a 125 LRNFP. There is a company locally who casts lead, very cheap (for me) to buy, as long as I buy 1000 at a time. My range partners enjoy shooting .38 and .357 almost as much as I do, so 1000 rounds lasts about a month.

As far as .380 loads, I haven't been able to find a deal on bullets to make it economical to reload, yet. I'm paying about $17.00 /hundred for Remingon cartridges; and the bullets I've found so far have been about $16.50/hundred. After factoring in the price of primers and powder, it's cheaper to just buy them pre-assembled. I am saving my brass though, so when it becomes cheaper, I'll be all set.

 

[Werewolf]

Winchester Pistol Primers large and small as required have worked best for me though CCI's are good too.

For powder AA#5 for .45ACP, HP-38 for 38 Spl and AA#7 or #9 for the .357 Mag. The Accurate Arms powders meter extremely well.

 

[The Bushmaster]

W-231 for the .45 ACP, .38 special and maybe the .380. You might, also, look at Power Pistol too.

For the .357 magnum look at Alliant 2400 or W296...

Almost any reliable primer will work (CCI, Winchester, Remington or Federal). As long as they go "POP" the powder will go "BOOM"...

 

[buenhec]

HP38 is the same as W231 right? Thats what the guy in the store told me. IS there a diff in price or quality?

 

[armoredman]

I use AA#2 and either CCI-500 or Winchester Small Pistol Primers for 38. Works great.

 

[Werewolf]

HP38 is the same as W231 right?

Wellllll - that's what they say.

But I'll be darned if I can find W231 loads for 38 Spl that are shown as the same weight with the same bullet using HP-38. Close but never the same.

FWIW - based on my experience - I think W231 may burn just a bit quicker than HP-38 but that is just my opinion.

 

[Linear Thinker]

Ditto to the above posts re W231, it's my choice for both 45ACP and 380. I've also used it in 38 Special with good results, but not in 357. Blue Dot is my choice there for medium-heavy loads, and Accurate #9 for max loads.
LT

 

[evan price]

I found that Winchester primers (small and large) will work for standard OR Magnum and you don't need to have separate primers for your Magnum loads. $25 a thousand or so.

I load 4.7 grains of Titegroup under a 230-grain Rainier roundnose bullet in range brass for .45 ACP.

4.0 grains of Titegroup under a 158-gr Rainier for .38 spcl

Titegroup is a flake powder that flows very well in my Lee eqpt.

 

[KI.W.]

Testing loads

10 yards are to short range for testing handguns. I use 25- for pistols and 50-100 yards for revolvers. There is VihtaVuori new powder N-32C "Tin Star". It burns very clean. It has low bulk desensity-less free spase in the case- why very good for also Cowboy Shooters.( I use this powder subsonic loads for rilfle and pistol silencers). Burningrate between VihtaVuori N-320 / N-330. JohnMcD, if Yuo will, I can send Vihatavuori Reloading Guide for You. Kauko.

 

[Walkalong]

There is VihtaVuori new powder N-32C "Tin Star".

I saw this from one of your posts and ordered some. I am looking forward to trying it out. It should work very well for reduced loads in .357, .41 & .44 Mag, & .45 Colt. It should also work well in .38 Spl. and other low pressure applications.

 

[KI.W.]

"Tin Star"-powder.

Walkalong, You have right. N-32C is very good for those calibers. 9mm Luger has already almost too small case. Kauko

 

[Texastbird]

I use Unique and Tite group for all those calibers. The new Unique isn't as dirty as the old stuff and it meters a little better. I have reloaded hundreds of 380s for my wife's Mustang and it likes 4 gr. Unique with an 88gr. JHP. which is the maximum load listed. Just watch the overall length and I don't think it will have any problems digesting your reloads. If you use old cases, then the Lee FCD is good insurance that they will chamber.

 

[zxcvbob]

Bullseye should be a good powder for all of those. Even (surprisingly) the .357 Mag. It is kind of sooty though.

Bob

 

[The Bushmaster]

JohnMcD348...One last thing. You mentioned wanting to match factory loads...To do that with any accuracy you will need a chronograph. Some powders will fall short of factory loads and some will exceed them. The problem is not to exceed maximum presures. A chronograph will not tell you if you are exceeding maximum pressures, but will tell you if you are nearing factory velocities. In some cases it is better to just find a bullet, powder, primer and case combination that gives you the best accuracy. If you still need to find a load combination that matches factory you will need a chronograph. It's about the only way to know if you have made factory velocities without exceeding maximum pressure tables...Also...Know what the pressure signs are before you try to match factory velocities...Remember...Some powders won't make it to factory velocities and some powders can exceed factory velocities and stay within the pressure boundries...Work up from at least 10% under maximum powder charge until you reach what you want...

 

[JohnMcD348]

Thanks guys for all the info. I went to the local gun show yesterday and picked up the stuff I needed. I went with Winchester 231(1lb) and 296(1lb) and bought the Winchester Large and Small Pistol Primers(1000 each) and about 500 each of .45, .38, and .380 bullets. Depending on how much powder it takes to reload each round, I have enough to produce 1500 rounds of the various stuff. I payed $240.00 total and figured had I been buying new boxed WWB ammo at WM, it would have cost roughly $480.00 for the same number of rounds. I know I'll go through alot more of the 231 than the 296 since I'll be loading more cartridges with it and fewer .357 rounds but I do have one question about .38/.357 reloads.

Can I reload the .357 cases with the .38 loads or would the extra space inthe case be a hazard since there is more room for pressure buildup? I'm not looking to build super power loads for anything I own, just reloading to be able to keep a plentiful supply of ammo on hand for the range. I'm too new to this to even be comfortable trying to "work up" a load. I'm sticking strictly to the books and data from the Hogdon website for the powder/bullet combo for now. After I put a few thousand rounds of my own making down range, then I'll get myself all the other goodies that come with the hobby like a chrono, bench rest, etc.

Again, thank you all for all the help you've been in getting me started in this endeavor. It's something that I've wanted to do for years but up until now have been unable to do.

 

[zxcvbob]

The W296 is only good for full-power magnum loads. You can't safely reduce it. It also requires magnum primers (or small rifle primers if you have those.) If you haven't opened it yet, you might take it back and exchange it for a pound of WSF or Herco or Longshot powder for almost-full-powered loads. (you'll find more load data available for the Herco, but WSF is easier to measure, and I think Longshot might be the same thing as WSF with a different label.) If you have opened the W296, just keep it for later and use the 231 for your .357 Magnum loads for now. W296 is a fun powder for when you want maximum velocity and a big fireball and BOOM that makes the earth shake. Oh, I almost forgot. 2400 is a good full power magnum powder that you can use with standard pistol primers. It's not quite as hot as W296. Also 2400 powder charges can be safely reduced.

You can use .38 Special data in .357 Mag brass, but you'll have to increase the powder slightly to get the same performance cuz the case capacity is different. I recommend using .38 Special "+P" load data if you're gonna use .357 brass. Also, used .38 Special brass is cheap, and .357 brass is expensive, and it has a limited life. I recommmend you look for some "once fired" .38 Special brass for your light loads -- no hurry though.

Have fun!

Bob

 

[JohnMcD348]

Thanks, that's what I was wondering about. I wanted to get teh 296 so I could load the Magnum loads but didn't want to "Have to load" the cases as magnum cases and use the 231 powedr instead. I also have alot of 30Carbine cases and plan to use the 296 for them also, so it will definitely get used. I'm new to the whole thing so I want to keep my powder choices down to bare minimum until I get a grip and learn more about reloading. The fewer powders I have that can do the most variety is waht I'm looking for at the moment. Then, later, after I get a fully functioning realoding specific setup in the new house after it's built, I plan on having a virtual library of powder/primer/cases/reloading data at my fingertips.

I know, big plans for a guy that's only getting started, but so far I REALLY like how it's going (and I haven't even fired my first homemade round yet.)

 

[zxcvbob]

If you're loading .30 Carbine as well, borrow some of their small rifle primers to use in the .357's and you can use your W296 powder. Just don't reduce the loads more than about 3% from maximum. If you want less than full-powered magnums, switch to the 231 -- you can start with the .357 load data and work backwards towards .38 Special data and load anything in between.

2400 is my favorite 30 Carbine powder so far, and I sometimes use it for .357 when I load for rifle. (I have a pistol chambered for .30 Carbine, and a rifle chambered for .357 Magnum) I have a pound of W296, but I haven't opened it yet. I want to use up some of my other powders first. I bought a pound of this and pound of that and a pound of that-one-over-there when I first got started. That was a couple of years ago, so powder was cheaper then than it is now.

Bob

 

[XD-40 Shooter]

For the three calibers you listed, Unique will do well in all three of them. Unique also doesn't require heavy charge weights, so a pound of Unique will go a long way.