Need recommendations on recoil spring for my Glock 21 build

[gunsrfun1]

Today I test fired a completed custom Glock 21 that I built. Just around 15 or 20 rounds for function tests. (It was too cold to shoot any more.)

The gun fed, ejected, and fired fine. But the slide would not always go fully into battery after stripping the next round. I would have to push the slide about 1/4" forward, and then it would go fully into battery, and fire. The trigger reset was fine.

After a few such instances, I started wondering if I was inadvertently limp-wristing the gun, something I normally never do. (It was 32 degrees out, so who knows.) So I locked my arms and wrist and tightened my grip ... and the problem disappeared.

But I don't normally have to lock up that tight on my other guns, and I would prefer not to have to for this gun either.

My question: Would it help to replace the factory recoil spring (17 pounds, I believe), with a slightly heavier spring, like 18 or 19 pounds? My thinking is that the heavier spring will drive the slide forward a bit harder, and put it fully into battery, even if I don't have a death grip on the gun. (I am aware that it will also recoil more, but I'm prepared to live with that downside.)

Any thoughts on my idea? And if so, any recommendations on an affordable but decent replacement guide rod? (I'll probably use Wolff springs.)

Thanks

 

[Riomouse911]

You could try that, it may help it work. Stock is 17 lb, Wolff makes 18,19,20,22 and 24 pound springs. I’ve seen guys use the heavier ones for .45 Super or max loads in other calibers, but not for standard or bullseye loads (Wolff goes down to as low as 10 lbs.)

But, based on the two I’ve put together in the past few months the barrel/locking block and/or the slide/barrel interface may need some tweaking and breaking in to fully seat.

A desert camo Glock 17 needed some light filing at the front of the ejection port to let the barrel pop up and lock properly. (It would seat with a bit of pressure on the rear of the slide.) It also had a trigger that occasionally wouldn’t reset. I sanded the inside of the frame where it looked like the trigger bar was rubbing, but it took an Apex trigger kit to give the reset 100 pct reliability.



The bottomland camo Glock 19 fit together perfectly with no filing needed. It’s a little bit stiff, I’m thinking after a bit of cerakote wears off the rails in the slide and the TiN coating on the barrel slicks up with some use it’ll be smooth as glass.

Both guns are using metal guide rods with stock 17 lb springs.

Good luck, let us know what it took to work properly.

Stay safe..

 

[gunsrfun1]

Thanks. I was thinking of going with 19 lbs. But when you add up a recoil spring and a guide rod, you're looking at ~ $35, a bit more than I want to spend. (I don't shoot this gun that often.)

Then I saw this. It's affordable, and NDZ has a good reputation. But it's 20 lbs. Do you think it might be worth a try? Or is 20 lbs. going overboard?
https://www.ndzperformance.com/gloc...1-3-20-20sf-21-21sf-p/ndz-gra-g3-g20-gl20.htm

 

[tarosean]

I test fired a completed custom Glock 21 that I built.

factory parts or ???????

 

[gunsrfun1]

Yes

 

[Dan-O]

Different kinds of ammo, reloads?

 

[Gordon]

That #20 spring and steel guide rod looks good and should work fine with milspec ball or stronger factory ammo. It may just solve your problem.

 

[armydog]

You need to figure out why a factory RSA isn't working with factory ammo.