Need Schooling on Muzzle brakes (AR15)

[Corpral_Agarn]

Hello THR!
I have a muzzle break on my AR 15. I built the lower (DPMS Parts on a S&W receiver) but bought the upper (DPMS). At the time I thought that flash hiders were a CA "no-no" so instead of a regular barrel I had a muzzle break installed on my 16 inch 5.56 upper. Initially I thought why not?
Then I fired it.
That sucker is LOUD. My buddy standing next to me flinched quite a bit and could feel the brim of his hat flapping "in the breeze" as that wave of concussion washed over him.

Now I really want something that reduces that blast. Or at least directs it forward instead of all around. I feel bad for folks next to me on the range and I warn them before I start shooting. I found a DPMS muzzle break claiming just that and was wondering if anyone had any experience with these or other products like it. I don't have any special feelings towards DPMS but they offer products that I can afford. I wouldn't say i am an AR15 nut but I enjoy shooting them and mine hasn't given me a single problem these 1000+ rounds.

Thanks for reading and for any help I can get!
Safe Travels!

 

[rcmodel]

http://www.brownells.com/rifle-part...s/ar-15-m16-battlecomp-prod44693.aspx?ttver=2

The DPMS Levang you mentioned is also supposed to help a lot.

rc

 

[Nikdfish]

Another reasonably priced option (<$50) for a linear compensator is the Keis Master Blaster. You can find them at Joe Bob Outfitters. I have linear comps on both my 300Blk's & 5.56 and they do make shooting under a shelter more pleasant for me and those around me...

Nick

 

[Flatbush Harry]

OK. First of all, it's a muzzle BRAKE, not a muzzle BREAK.



Harry

 

[Corpral_Agarn]

OK. First of all, it's a muzzle BRAKE, not a muzzle BREAK.



Harry

Well, I asked for schooling didn't I?
Thanks for the correction.
Do you have a muzzle brake to recommend maybe?
I kinda like the Levang brake right now (nice price...). Although that one that RC recommended looks pretty sweet. I know which one the wife would prefer!
Thanks again, All.

 

[Corpral_Agarn]

Another reasonably priced option (<$50) for a linear compensator is the Keis Master Blaster. You can find them at Joe Bob Outfitters. I have linear comps on both my 300Blk's & 5.56 and they do make shooting under a shelter more pleasant for me and those around me...

Nick

Hey Nick,
Do you have any trouble cleaning these types of brakes? It looks like that could be the one hurdle with these types(?).
It also looks like the Kies version has flat points on the side to be installed using a standard brake wrench vs the DPMS one that would probably require a rubber wrap wrench. Maybe not a big deal.
Thanks for the suggestion I am definitely gonna check out the master blaster.

 

[ball3006]

What kind of hearing protection are you using? chris3

 

[Z-Michigan]

I have the Kies Blastmaster and it works well for directing blast forward, and seems well made. It has only a very small benefit on recoil or muzzle rise.

Is your California AR a bullet button setup or a "featureless" setup? Because if featureless you'll need to have any device permanently attached and be sure it's treated as not a flash hider under state law. If you have a bullet button setup, I think (not 100% sure) you are free to just use a flash hider or whatever you want.

 

[Corpral_Agarn]

I have the Kies Blastmaster and it works well for directing blast forward, and seems well made. It has only a very small benefit on recoil or muzzle rise.

Is your California AR a bullet button setup or a "featureless" setup? Because if featureless you'll need to have any device permanently attached and be sure it's treated as not a flash hider under state law. If you have a bullet button setup, I think (not 100% sure) you are free to just use a flash hider or whatever you want.

Thanks for the info, Z.
My AR has been "bullet button-ized" because my understanding is if you want a standard grip you need one to be legal. I am not sure about flash hiders but I do know that Brakes are okay.

What kind of hearing protection are you using? chris3

I used to just use Plugs, but when I shoot my AR I use plugs plus muffs.
My dads AR has just a regular (no dressings) barrel and it is not nearly as loud.
Thanks again, All!

 

[Nikdfish]

Yes, the Kies Blast Master has flats so you can use a wrench. (sorry about calling it Master Blaster earlier... probably something from a Mad Max movie)

The best tool I found for installing & removing the levang style comps is an adjustable pin wrench I bought on Amazon or Ebay for <$10 for use with my angle grinder (I had misplaced the wrench that came with it). Something like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Grip-50098-Adjustable-Pin-Wrench/dp/B003MBOV5E/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y

You can also get by using a couple of punches placed in 2 of the radial ports & then put a bar/screwdriver between them.

Cleaning has never been an issue so far. I think it would take quite a bit of fouling to make for an interference issue with the bullet passage. If needed, removal & replacement is easy and you don't have to worry about proper indexing when you re-install. When removed, the expansion chamber & all ports are accessible from the back-side.

Incidentally they also do well as protection for the barrel crown.

Nick

 

[adelbridge]

the biggest noise problem is a 16" barrel. You are not burning all the powder charge in the bore and huge noise is a by product. a 20 inch barrel is going to be be much more pleasant than a compensator.

 

[Corpral_Agarn]

the biggest noise problem is a 16" barrel. You are not burning all the powder charge in the bore and huge noise is a by product. a 20 inch barrel is going to be be much more pleasant than a compensator.

I am sure you are right, adelbridge.
But right now there i don't think i can get a 20" barrel to replace mine and barrels cost significantly more than the brakes i am looking at.
Also, I kinda like the shorter barrel. Its a little more Agarn friendly in closed spaces.

 

[hueyville]

I have several custom built rifles with specially designed muzzle brakes that not only reduced felt recoil but are tuned to help the overall accuracy of the rifle by the way it affects barrel harmonics. Same principal at the idea behind the Browning Boss system. The smith that builds most of my rifles has multiple self designed and machined muzzle brake designs that he utilizes for different applications and they are more to improve accuracy more than reduce perceived recoil. His rifles are extremely accurate. He actually replaced the Boss system on a Browning of mine that came equipped with it and it shot better afterwards than any adjustment combination I tried with the factory unit.

That being said, I call my big rifles my range clearing machines. When I used to take them to a public range I would announce before first shot to all parties to ear up and move back. Most would ignore me and some would even chuckle that I would act like I had something special. Some at the far end of the range that were not actively shooting would completely ignore me. Out of curiosity a few times once I got the rifle settled into the sandbags and on target I then looked down the range as I gently squeezed the trigger. Even the folks with muffs on would crawl out of their skin when a beast went off. The next time I announce that I am going to shoot, everyone's plugs and muffs go in and they all back up about 20 feet. Third shot the folks that are not familiar with the report of a cannon start packing their gear and leaving the range. When I finish the five shot group, of the people remaining, they start asking if I am going to shoot anymore or ask if I will please put the beast up and shoot something else.

So yes, muzzle brakes can be tough on people to the left and right on the range. The bigger the rifle the worse it is. People will shudder even when my .223 or 22-250 goes off, 7mm Mag and larger upset folks and 30% or more go home. It has gotten to the point that I no longer take anything 7mm Mag or larger with a brake to the public range. The shame is it is only 20 minutes from the house and my private range at my farm is just over an hour drive. I have to invest real time to go to the farm. The public range even on short fall days when the sun sets early I can run up for a few rounds after work. So now its small rifles and handguns when in public and the big guns with brakes have to sit idle as it just isn't polite to send people home because they are not prepared with plugs and muffs both or experience around animals with a real bark. So I do understand your issue. Just realize if you remove or cover your brake on a tack driver, point of impact and even group size will change.

 

[buttrap]

AR there is no reasion at all to have a break on one at all. A 300 mag yes but a AR no, the basic GI flash screw on will give better service.

 

[helotaxi]

the biggest noise problem is a 16" barrel. You are not burning all the powder charge in the bore and huge noise is a by product.

Actually has nothing to do with powder burn. The problem is residual pressure. Pressure is higher when the bullet exits the bore on a 16" barrel than a 20" Difference in percentage of powder burned between them is negligible and depending on the powder and bullet in question it very likely will be 100% burned in the 16".

I've got a Levang on one of my 16" rifles and it makes a huge difference. Much quieter than my 20" with a standard A2 birdcage.