New 10/22

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BamBam

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Memphis, TN
After shopping around for a week, I found a new 10/22 Stainless/Synthetic at a local gun shop for $199.00.

A friend gave me a Butler Creek 25 round mag for it.

Does anyone recommend any "must-haves" for this rifle?

Thanks,
BamBam
 
A Buffer Technologies bolt stop pin I think is a pretty good must have....helps keeps the receiver holes from getting battered. That and a few bricks of .22's. Shoot the thing and enjoy it...you can always customize with aftermarket barrels, stocks, triggers, etc. later.
 
The triggers of the current 10/22s (not really sure about the Target or TNZ models) are extremely poor. IMO, it should be the very first thing to modify or replace.
 
Ron,
Do you think replacing just the trigger ($25) is a good improvement or do you recommend the competition trigger kit ($90)?

Thanks to everyone for the advice,
BamBam
 
maybe those that use the buffer tech bolt stop can tell me

something i've been wondering about ever since i saw an ad for the Buffer tech bolt stop.. if you need this, just how much ammo a week are you putting through your gun??

i currently own a 30 year old 10/22 (older than me and the gun i learned on) that shows absolutely no sign of wear or battering of the push pins or receiver holes. and except for a few breif periods this gun has been fed an average of about a half to a full brick of ammo a week for the whole of that 30 years, with all problems being either ammo or worn/dirty mag related.

so for me the nesessity of the padded bolt stop is slightyl suspect. but i am curious if i'm just don't shoot enough for it to matter or if i've just been "bloody lucky"......
 
BB,

When I said trigger, I meant pull weight. Sorry for any misinterpretation. The biggest factor in improving the pull weight is to actually replace the hammer. Replacing the sear also helps a little bit but the hammer for sure. Any target hammer manufactured by a good company from any of the reputable sellers like On Target will do wonders for pull weight. The additional stuff like shims, titanium, etc. are not all that necessary, IMO.

After having the action done on my first 10/22 by a 'smith, I now do my own after looking at the parts that were worked on. It isn't that difficult to modify the hammer but if it is your first time, buying one would probably be the best bet (and try your hand at modifying the stock one you're replacing).

Taking apart and putting together the 10/22 will seem like nothing after you do it a couple of times. (Like most any other machanical tool or engine.)

Like Detritus, I'm not entirely convinced about the need for a buffer either. The worst I've seen is that the holes of the bolt stop pin get a little looser over time and the pin falls out when the stock is removed. If I'm taking the gun apart where the stock is removed, I'll probably be removing the pin anyway. When the gun is put back together, the pin stays in place by the stock. I've taken apart the receiver and trigger housing so many times those pins just fall out too. Again, held in place when in the stock.
 
One advantage that I've found to the recoil buffer is that I seem to be able to return to the target faster. But I have the factory thin barrel on mine, so with a heavy barrel it may not make that much of a difference. I just finished modifying the bolt catch so I can release it automaticly. Only took 30 minutes and that was left handed and with a dead batery in my rotory tool. Now I can release the bolt with one hand instead of 3, big improvment.
 
Yeah, the bolt release is also short work with a Dremel-type or even a file. Keep in mind, though, the bolt will then release with just a light hit that will either cause the bolt to move back slightly like a rap on the buttstock. Not a big problem, IMO, but some might consider it a safety issue.
 
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