new baby eagle probs

[eagleowner]

I am the proud new father of a Magnum Research Baby Eagle .40 (IWI Jericho 941). It is my first firearm and I think I am having some issues. I have put about 500 rounds through it and the trigger pin seems to be getting pushed out of the polymer frame (or bushing?) that it is in. Also, the slide does not always return to its full forward position when manipulating by hand (as in cleaning, etc.). The trigger pin is the bigger issue, any suggestions? Also, if i am in the completely wrong room of the site for this post please let me know and i will post elsewhere as this is my first one. Thanks for any help.

 

[gb6491]

Welcome to the forums!

If you bought your pistol new I would have them make it right for you.

If not, it still might be a good idea to send it in.

DIY:
A little blue Loctite on the pin ends might work.

I'm not sure on the Jerhico, is the pin hollow and flared on both ends? If that's the case, you could probably flare the end opposite from where it is coming out of the frame a little more. Find a way to support the opposite end of the pin and use a cone tip punch/tool to flare the other end.


Regards,
Greg

 

[eagleowner]

Thanks for your reply. Yeah, I bought the pistol new. Is this a common problem to Jericho's or polymer frames in general? I would rather be able to fix it myself (such as your Loctite suggestion) as I just bought it... I don't want to have to send it back to the manufacturer for them to take their sweet time fixing it to then just have the same problem later. Is the blue Loctite different than the red in any way?
The pin is solid, not hollow and not flared.
Also, any suggestions on the slide stick?

 

[gb6491]

I don't know if this a known problem with the poly BE. I'd give them a call regardless.

If you still want to try a DIY fix, here's some info on Loctite from Wikipedia:

"Loctite's threadlocker products come in different strength grades, to suit the particular application.

Blue Removable No. 242, 243, 246, 248, 2432 & 2440 - Used for things you may want to unscrew with minimal hassle. It cures into a brittle, glassy bond that takes one good twist to break, but removes cleanly after that. Recommended for use with valve covers, water pumps and oil pan bolts.

Red High-Strength No. 271, 262, 266, 268, 272, 277 & 2760 - Used on things that you don't want to take apart for a long time. It requires heat from a torch or iron (to 250° C) to loosen its grip. It cures into a thicker, sticky bond that holds up better against vibration and shocks. Preferably to be used with automotive and mechanical operation such as nuts and bolts on Cars, Motorbikes, Ski-doo's and Boats.

Green - penetrating grade No. 220(blue), 290 & 294 - Used for use on parts that have already been assembled.

Purple - low strength grade No. 222MS & 222 - Used for set screws.

For Plastic threads - No. 425. - Used for small plastic threads."

Try the blue first.

If your pistol is working correctly when you are firing it, I wouldn't tend to worry about the occasional hiccup cycling by hand. I would check it for proper lubrication and any inordinate wear marks though.

Regards,
Greg

 

[eagleowner]

Great advice. Thanks a lot.

 

[grytter]

Baby Eagle Trigger Pin

I also have the same problem with the trigger pin. I contacted Magnum Research and they confirmed that in some guns, the wrong trigger pin was installed. They are sending me a new (correct) trigger pin free of charge. They also told me it is a easy do-it-yourself fix. Simply use the correct pin as a punch to tap out the old pin. As for the slide not going all the way forward when cleaning, I too have had that happen a couple times. But when at the range the gun fires flawlessly. I've put about 1000 rounds through it and had no jams or any other problems at all. I love the gun. Great purchase.