New Bullet Molds for less Than $65

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35 Whelen, not singling your post but that many times I see comments of people comparing Aluminum to both Brass and Steel and that just isn't a fair comparison. In the case you mention as to weights. Is the reason you see such a big difference because of the alloy you are using? I ask because I have a small cavity mold that is supposed to drop 102gr bullet but drops closer to 105gr and I truly believe it is not the molds fault but the alloy I am using. As to your other issue I just finished reading a post recently of someone having a similar problem with a much more expensive mold after it got hot.

I can recall numerous incidents were I had a problem with a new product that had nothing to do with reloading. Many times with expensive electronics where they would arrive DOA. Send it back and the next one would work perfectly for many years. That doesn't make the whole Brand, Model or product junk.. Heck I even have a Brand new S&W 380EZ that as soon as I got it there was a recall on it.

I am not going to argue that there isn't different levels of the same product as I believe we all know better. One cannot expect to buy a Flank stake and then expect it to eat like Prime Rib or buy a Chevy Cavalier and expect it to be a Corvette. Just as I do not expect my $20.00 Lee Aluminum mold to last as long as a steel Lyman. But then both can be abused and be made into junk in just a short time as well.
 
The aluminum in Lee molds is much lighter and much softer than in the other brands mentioned. Compared to better aluminum molds the Lee's score heavily from the sprue plate dragging across the top of them. It go so bad with the Lee's that I have finally started truing the sprue plate and the top of molds, which has helped quite a lot. Regarding the expected difference in bullet weights, it had nothing to do with alloy. Most of my other Lee moulds by and large drop bullets one would expect.

So when I buy a Lee mould I know it will be a crap shoot. The last Lee mould I bought was a 6-cavity for my .38 Special's and it casts good bullets. And FWIW, I take care of my molds opening the sprue plates with a gloved hand, never hitting them.

35W
 
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. And FWIW, I take care of my molds opening the sprue plates with a gloved hand, never hitting them.
35W

As I mentioned before I only have 2 molds and both are Lee models and they have been very useful in their purpose and use. For very little investment I was able to get started and determine whether or not I would even enjoy doing this of it would even be practical to try.

I too try to open the sprue plate with a gloved hand but when that won't work I have a very large rubberized handled screw driver that I use. Also being new to this I am still learning and the one mold does have marks from opening the sprue and now know I should have taken it off and lapped it a bit before using.

My view, I will never praise these molds as the best but will praise them for their value.
 
A six cavity Lee mold will cost you $55 because you have to buy handles. Mid south has good prices too!
 
What has been my clincher in considering a Lee mold for this 40 cal gun is will it give me a .401 bullet or not consistently. I had a .309 mold by Lee and I got a lot at .305 and only a few good ones. They all won't be good ones. Will an Arsenal be pretty consistent in diameter??
 
A Bernz-a-matic propane torch speeds heat up time a great deal with any brand.

When I first started casting about 25 years ago I read up on the subject. I can still remember reading “ never heat a mold with a torch you can damage it”.
To this day I’ve never done that, although with some big multi cavity iron I’m tempted.
Not disagreeing with you doing it just recalling why I don’t.
 
I don't see how you could damage a mold, even the aluminum molds, with a little propane torch unless you were to really work at it. In fact it would take a real klutz to do so. Use a little common sense and keep it moving over the entire mold and you will be good. Writers have to write to be paid. It doesn't mean they have to be correct in what they write.
 
A hot plate with an old saw blade on top works quite well to heat up molds. Using a torch could cause the mold to warp.
 
started casting in the early 80's and got molds from rcbs, lyman, nei, and lee. the lee molds of today are much better that the older ones. nothing wrong with the lee molds. i use the new one and they just work. each brand will have it's own problems. no brand of mold is perfect they all can and/or will have something that will drive you mad.
 
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