New LCT Press setup

Status
Not open for further replies.

WestKentucky

Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2014
Messages
13,138
Location
Western Kentucky
I came home to a box on the porch, and surprisingly enough my press is here. It was supposedly on backorder but apparently something changed for the better. So, it is out of the box and assembled, ready to mount...I think. I am kinda wondering if there’s anything that I need to do before I mount it. It feels kinda clunky as if it might need some oil or grease but that is typically a no-no when it comes to reloading. Is there anything I need to do before I bolt it down?
 

Attachments

  • 9B1DD8B4-85FB-4B18-AA8C-8EA0DF246040.jpeg
    9B1DD8B4-85FB-4B18-AA8C-8EA0DF246040.jpeg
    86.9 KB · Views: 63
It is good to keep the ram clean and lightly greased.

It may have been said before, but Lee has some short help videos for fine tuning.
 
I put wheel bearing grease on the twist of the rod
The one thing you need to be careful with is changing turret heads. Just bring the arm down to about two o'clock so the ratchet can turn free when you twist the turret. When installing a turret start with arm at two o'clock, set turret in slots, and move arm a little up or down and the turret will fall in place. The ratchet will strip out if you don't get the rod to free float by lowering the arm a little.
 
The indexing bushing that rides up and down the indexing rod can get deformed if you move the turret with the ram in the wrong place. It is a good idea to keep a couple of spares just in case. They should last for thousands of rounds though. I put a tiny amount of oil on the indexing rod.

Edit: Watch the video above and you will be well served.
 
Last edited:
The way its shaped for mounting on the bench i reinforced that area with an oak board and 2x4 and ran lag bolts all the way through the bench. I also put a little bit of oil on the ram too so it slides nicely. I also ordered the Horandy light strip and used small zip ties and attached it to the pillar and it works amazing. Another note when assembling the press arm and those brass bushings is make sure the teeth are aligned. whoever put mine together didn't do a great job of that and they are a little chewed up but it still works.
 
I don't know if it's covered in the video, but the handle doesn't have to be mounted at the end of the rod. I mounted mine where the ball is about even with the top of the press. It makes for a little less distance travelled and has plenty of leverage for small rifle and pistol sizing.
 
I don't know if it's covered in the video, but the handle doesn't have to be mounted at the end of the rod. I mounted mine where the ball is about even with the top of the press. It makes for a little less distance travelled and has plenty of leverage for small rifle and pistol sizing.
That’s one problem the way I built my bench a couple years ago. I have a 2x4 support directly under the front edge of the bench so it gets in the way if I shorten the stroke very much.
 
The one thing I had an issue with was the auto indexing. If you can't get it to index properly after following the directions you may want to play with the position of the auto index clamp on the ram. Worked like a charm and have not looked back.

I learned to load on a Lyman T-mag, which I felt was a poor design. I think of the four most common turrets out there the LCT is the best, at least for my uses, which are currently restricted to common handgun calibers. Note I did not qualify that statement with "for the price". If I was doing something that required the rigidity of case iron I might want a Redding. I will start loading .308 soon, so we will see how that goes.
 
The one thing I had an issue with was the auto indexing. If you can't get it to index properly after following the directions you may want to play with the position of the auto index clamp on the ram. Worked like a charm and have not looked back.
You can easily adjust the indexing by holding the turret and turning the auto-index drive rod with a small crescent wrench. The problem you may run into is with the turret overshooting the die position because the press really should have 2 detent balls instead of one. I find some grease in the turret race not only helps the turret rotate more smoothly but if it's thick enough will stop the overshoot. I use Rem Oil everywhere else.
 
I mount all of my stuff on 2x how ever wide you like. You can hang it off the table some, and easy on, easy off. I have nuts welded to a steel plate and the plate screwed to underside off the table
top. Bolts don't need to be that big. That is my insurance I won't cross thread one.
I cut the arm off about an inch before the bend to shorten the throw.


NCM_0357.JPG NCM_0360.JPG NCM_0361.JPG
 
You can easily adjust the indexing by holding the turret and turning the auto-index drive rod with a small crescent wrench. The problem you may run into is with the turret overshooting the die position because the press really should have 2 detent balls instead of one. I find some grease in the turret race not only helps the turret rotate more smoothly but if it's thick enough will stop the overshoot. I use Rem Oil everywhere else.

Yes. That's what the directions say. My point was that may not work if the clamp is not lined up properly. But if I have issues I may try your tip on lubing the race. The other thing I did find... if you have the auto disk installed with a full hopper you have to be smooth and easy with the stroke. Otherwise or the momentum will cause the turret to overshoot. Your idea of having two ball indents is a good one.
 
I dismantled mine and oiled every pivot and moving part. 3 in 1 on the Turret on the bearing surfaces. The thing runs slick. Whenever I change turrets I put the handle all the way down and leave it there until I put the next turret in or if I am done for the time being. So far I have loaded .223, .243, 300 savage, 30-06, 9mm, 38 spl, 357 mag and 40 s&w.
 
I like it. The bend down low is to lean it over the table as much as I could and keep a short throw. Solved the problem of when the ram is up the arm was below my leg. I sit on a stool when loading. Now it is level with the top of my leg. And I was really tired of that ball.
 
That’s one problem the way I built my bench a couple years ago. I have a 2x4 support directly under the front edge of the bench so it gets in the way if I shorten the stroke very much.
You will probably appreciate the Inline Fabrications hi-mount, which allows space for full travel of the handle. Mine is the Inline ergo handle and has 5 1/2" of length extending beyond the clamp. I load standing up, so my press is at a comfortable height for me.
 
I followed the LEE Directions to the letter.
"Lubricate the ram and all pivot points with a lightweight oil—gun, sewing machine or any weight motor oil will work. Avoid water-displacing oils such as WD-40. Coat bare metal parts with oil for storage like you would any fine firearm. "
I used Ballistol. It tends to penetrate metal surfaces and leave a coating behind. The Cast iron base is more porous than the steel shaft so it is perfect to absorb oil and develop a film. I Ballistol at the end of each session to put oil into the base.
https://leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/TP1245.pdf

I use the LEE Autodrum powder measure. They say to do this:
"The powder measure hasn’t been conditioned adequately. Run a hopper full of powder through the measure to coat surfaces with powder or dust the metering surfaces with powdered graphite. "
https://leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/90811.pdf

I familiarized myself with adjusting the turns of flats on a pistol insert and forgot how many pulls it took to empty the hopper. The flats work out to tune in your grains quickly once you get a feel for how many grains each 1/10cc gives you.

They do not mention grease. Grease is not always good in places where it can get fowled by dirt & grime. So I stuck with the recommended oil. It seems to run smooth.
 
Try it without the grease for a while, then use a acid brush or whatever and put a little grease on each lug of the press (not on the turret lugs).
The difference is night and day
 
My new Auto Drum measure had very slight burr on the edge of the rotor opening. Did not notice this with ball powders, but when I tried to throw some Varget it hung up badly. I took it apart and it seemed the burr was catching on the sticks of Varget and jamming. I used fine sandpaper to smooth the edge of the rotor opening (where powder enters and the elastomer wiper scapes across) and not it runs Varget no problem.

I'll have to try grease inside the Turret frame. I've been using CLP but overtime gray stuff (alum oxide?) builds up and the turning slows down quite a bit. Wiping it clean and re-oiling slicks it up but I imagine grease would last much longer.

Overall I love this powder measure. Definitely will get more rotors and retire my Auto Disk and old plastic PPM. Plan to get the newer Deluxe PPM as it looks to be constructed the same as the Auto Drum and uses the same rotors. John Lee is doing his family proud running Lee Precision, lots of new products over the last few years and some obvious thought going into the improvements.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top