New Lee Bulge Buster Die Kit

Status
Not open for further replies.
After I size 9MM brass with my carbide sizer, if it fails the gauge, it goes in the scrap bin. I am getting approximately a 10% or less failure rate.

It it fails the gauge I figure it has been stressed more than normal, whether its from pressure, or an unsupported chamber, or both. I have buckets of 9MM range brass, so if it fails the gauge, it gets scrapped.

I am sure the Redding or Lee solution works, and I am sure you can get several more firings out of that overly bulged brass, but until I am hurting for free or cheap 9MM brass, I'll pass. :)
 
It it fails the gauge I figure it has been stressed more than normal, whether its from pressure, or an unsupported chamber, or both.

I agree. That's why I have replaced my factory Glock barrels with tighter chambered Lone Wolf barrels for shooting reloads.

Repeated sizing of bulged case will only weaken it, and you are treating the symptoms of over pressure/less support not the cause.

If you are shooting loose, less supported Glock barrels, shooting reloads with tighter Lone Wolf barrels will require you to probably full length size once. The subsequent resizing will be minimal, thus extending the case life. Besides, I can shoot lead in LW barrel to bring the cost of reloading down even more.
 
That's why I have replaced my factory Glock barrels with tighter chambered Lone Wolf barrels for shooting reloads.

And the other bonus is it lets you shoot lead bullet reloads -- without everyone and their brother stopping to tell you how you're going to blow up your gun 'cause Glock's warranty sez ...."

-Sam
 
Lee Bulge Buster kits are available.

"John Lee" <[email protected]>
07:36 AM 2/8/2010:

Please tell Benelli that he has to remove the adjusting screw and the crimp sleeve from the Factory crimp die. Scary!

Yes the Bulge Buster kits are available. The ad in Guns and Ammo appeared before we anticipated and the General shooting public found out about this product before the distributors. After two years of not being able to produce products as fast as we could sell them the sales department (me) was asleep at the switch.

Sincerely

John Lee, President
 
I have issues with .357 brass and slight bulges at the bottom (in a Chaparral .357 single action). Chambers factory fine, so I know it`s the reloads...also one chamber is especially tight. So there are a few of us revolver types with issues...
 
I have loaded 100 rounds this weekend after using the Lee Bulge Buster kit. So far, 23 out of 100 failed to chamber the Wilson Pistol Max Gage.

Anyway, I am now using the U-Die or undersized die (Also made by Lee) and it seems to be better.
 
Bulge Buster

Hello. It's been a few years since I logged in, and I doubt any of you might remember me, apart from that prehistoric geezer ReloaderFred, if he is still around. :rolleyes:

I came across the bulge buster kit in the March 2010 American Rifleman, and by some strange coincidence I DID have some bulged 357 SIG brass from my P226 while I was working up loads to the max levels listed in some of the reloading manuals. (125 gr. GD @ 1450 FPS)

To begin with, the area that is unsupported in a SIG barrel is far different than the feed ramp exposure in a Glock barrel, but it is still there. The picture below shows the exposed base of the case, and it is precisely this area that bulges out, and leaves a ring of just this height after it is full length resized. I am using a Dillon FL carbide die, as they were the only company to offer one when I bought the dies.

bulge1.jpg

Now, how is this bulge forming? The answer seems fairly obvious, and it is that when shooting near max loads in the SIG barrel, the pressure from the case pushes down on the unsupported base and makes it bulge out. The general movement of the brass is shown below:

bulge2.jpg

Now, the thing that worries me about this is where is this brass bulge going to go if you run the case through the factory crimp die in the normal (case mouth up) direction? It might be that swaging brass is swaging brass, and when you push the side in it will go back to where it came from. Considering the amount of force required to resize some of these bases, however, it might be the case that with the friction involved, the brass will get pulled further down and start to change the shape of the case bevel.

As such, what made sense to me when I saw the original ad for this product was that you would want to run the case through the die BASE UP to make the brass go back where it came from as much as possible.

To do this, I simply got a bolt of the appropriate sub .355" diameter, and used that to push the case upwards base first through the factory crimp die. I moved the crimp die up a bit in the press to maximize the leverage factor of the ram when pushing the case through, and the system seems to work quite well.

bulge3.jpg

One final note: I have observed a substantial difference between Winchester brass and the Speer Lazy-S brass, with the ring on the Winchester brass being much sharper on the top edge. With the Speer brass, a discernable ring does not really form when it is full length resized, even though the case base is bulged just as much in some cases as the Winchester brass. If I had to guess, I would think this might have to do with the temper of the brass, but that's just a guess on my part.

This is the first time I have seen base bulges like this in cases, and I have never seen it in 9mm, 10mm, or 45 ACP before. I agree with the viewpoint that Lee carbide dies seem to resize the base better in these calibers than other dies (RCBS, to name one). For the record, I am mostly an ALL-STEEL 1911 and CZ clone guy in autoloaders, and have a distinct aversion to striker fired guns (i.e., Tupperware) where I cannot see a hammer and its firing position.
 
It happens in 40 s&W if the case is fired out of an unsupported chamber. In my STI eagle, I was having serious failure to chamber issues, even after break in of about 800 rounds. Like 20 rounds ot a 100 were failing to chamber (unless they had been shot in the gun first, then they were fine the seconfd time round).
I tried the EGW LEE undersize die and it was working the brass too much. Lots of ripples and bulges.
I then bought this kit from Lee for $15. It WORKS! I ran 100 cases of range brass through the bulge buster kit/FCD die and then loaded normally (no undersizing at all) and it all chambered beautifully.
For $15, it is fairly priced, and very innovative. I like Lee! THey have transformed reloading and this is another great invention for a real problem. The plastic catcher really speeds up the bulge busting. I did 250 cases in about a half hour easily. Just pump em through and then empty the catcher every 50-100 rounds or so. Works great!
I will now use this prior to reloading any range brass I pick up (often after a match one picks up brass fired through other guns as well).

Recommend highly! !
abajaj11
 
My Lee 9mm Classic loader (the hammer into die one) and Redding 9mm steel sizer arrived today.

So did it help. Unfortunately no. The Lee Classic die even though you hammer the case all the way in, is obviously designed to resize cases only for the gun they were originally fired in and as a result does not size any better than than an ordinary die.

The Redding steel die "looks" like it would size further down than the carbide dies but in fact the gauge says it is the same as a Lee carbide die. By the way sizing with the steel die with a trace of lube which I use for carbide anyway was just about as smooth as with a carbide die.

So far the best dies (in 9mm ) for a progressive press are the Lee Carbide and the steel Redding.

The best die overall but really only for use in a single stage, is the Lyman carbide.

Hurry up Lee with a 9mm Bulgebuster.
 
By the way, Sam, the Magma Case Master Jr. does push the brass through the full length sizing die base first. The difference is it's an arbor press, and pushes the brass down through the die from the top, and has a case feeder.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
Anybody tried pushing brass backwards through a Redding G-Rx die?

I had to turn the push rod down so it would work with my CoAx press as it does not have a shell holder slot, so I turned it down to fit just like case in the universal shell holder. I could turn the top off to fit the inside of the case and push it through backwards. I may turn down a grade #8 bolt and give it a try.

Jimmy K
 
Hurry up Lee with a 9mm Bulge buster.

Hopefully soon.

From: John Lee <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Bulge Buster Die Kit
Date: Wednesday, February 3, 2010, 7:49 AM

Because the 9mm [case] is tapered the standard Factory Crimp Die will not work as a push through die.

We have modified a 9mm Factory Crimp Die and it is being beta tested by the owner of a Uzi. If the test proves out we will be able to provide a die to use with this tapered case.

My limited testing in the office was encouraging.

Sincerely

John Lee, President
 
Since Glock 25/28 chambered for 380 auto is not for sale in the USA, probably no. There maybe 380 auto cases from superhot reloads, but the factory chambers will limit how bulged spent cases will get.

The Bulge Buster kit is primarily designed to full length size bulged cases fired from looser Glock chambers with less support at the ramp area that cannot be sized to specs with normal resizing dies.
 
Just have to add my 2 cents. Got this the other day and played with it yesterday. I love it. This is what I hoped the .40 FCD would be like when I bought it. Ran about 20 finished cartridges through it that would only go about 2/3rd into my Lyman cart. guage. Afterwards they fit perfect. Used it on my 357 sig cases too and now I can shoulder size without lube. Can't wait to see what it'll do with .380.
 
OMG, you are so right! What is up with the little arrows? Why can't they just number each step and go from top to bottom?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top