QuarterBoreGunner
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Zak- what process or finisher would you use?
New MRPy Goodness (PICS)
- Thread starter Zak Smith
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Zak Smith
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I'm still investigating options. If Aluma-Hyde II will work, I can do it myself. Otherwise I'll have whoever does it for MSTN do it.
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Zak Smith
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Painted Stock
Here are the results of my first attempt at painting any of my rifles. The plan was to pain the top surface of the Magpul M93 receiver extension to match the Coyote Brown body unit. This would avoid causing any fitting problems between the body unit and rec extension.
I used Brownells Aluma-Hyde II. After testing colors including O.D. Green, Earth Brown, Desert Tan, and Coyote Brown, the best match was Desert Tan. Coyote Brown was also extremely close in color.
I attempted to mask off the rest of the stock, and was pretty successful. The only thing that's noticeable is a little extra near the receiver.
[ link to larger image ]
[ link to larger image ]
[ link to larger image ]
Here are the results of my first attempt at painting any of my rifles. The plan was to pain the top surface of the Magpul M93 receiver extension to match the Coyote Brown body unit. This would avoid causing any fitting problems between the body unit and rec extension.
I used Brownells Aluma-Hyde II. After testing colors including O.D. Green, Earth Brown, Desert Tan, and Coyote Brown, the best match was Desert Tan. Coyote Brown was also extremely close in color.
I attempted to mask off the rest of the stock, and was pretty successful. The only thing that's noticeable is a little extra near the receiver.
[ link to larger image ]
[ link to larger image ]
[ link to larger image ]Knife_Sniper
Member
How many rounds have you put through the system ZAK?
Hows that JP bolt holdin up?
No wear in the receiver huh?
Hows that JP bolt holdin up?
No wear in the receiver huh?
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Zak Smith
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Not too many rounds yet, unfortunately - maybe 400? Between a looming work deadline and poor weather, there's been no extra time. I've been out three times with it: 1. to sight in the optics, 2. shot the Aurora 3Gun match with it in March, 3. for the brake comparison I posted above. This weekend I plan to get out for some serious shooting.
Since the OPSINC brake isn't effective compared to the JP brake on my competition rifle, I put a specially-milled Vortex on the MRP - might as well go "tactical" all the way.
The JP bolt carrier is running perfectly. I expect no problems since I run it in three other rifles with absolutely no B/C related issues. The bolt itself is the LMT enhanced, as I mentioned before.
I don't expect any internal receiver wear. The anodizing inside my old 3Gun upper (a RRA) was only lightly polished after maybe 8k rounds. The finish on the LMT parts seems harder than the RRA finish.
-z
Since the OPSINC brake isn't effective compared to the JP brake on my competition rifle, I put a specially-milled Vortex on the MRP - might as well go "tactical" all the way.
The JP bolt carrier is running perfectly. I expect no problems since I run it in three other rifles with absolutely no B/C related issues. The bolt itself is the LMT enhanced, as I mentioned before.
I don't expect any internal receiver wear. The anodizing inside my old 3Gun upper (a RRA) was only lightly polished after maybe 8k rounds. The finish on the LMT parts seems harder than the RRA finish.
-z
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Zak Smith
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[ link to larger image ]Strings
Member
Zak:
Is that stock worth the money? I wouldn't mind having something a little different from the standard that's on there now, but $225+ is just a bit steep. Is it sturdy? Comfortable? Does it cut down on SPROING?
Is that stock worth the money? I wouldn't mind having something a little different from the standard that's on there now, but $225+ is just a bit steep. Is it sturdy? Comfortable? Does it cut down on SPROING?
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Zak Smith
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The M93 stock has no play. It is easier to operate than the normal CAR telestocks. It is rock solid- stronger than a fixed A1/A2 stock. Cheek weld is good and consistent regardless of stock position. I've never noticed a sproing from carbine stocks, but this one should have even less based on the receiver extension overmolding.
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Strings
Member
And being a pest again...
Is there really any difference between the standard magpulls and the Ranger Plate? The cost difference is quite steep...
Is there really any difference between the standard magpulls and the Ranger Plate? The cost difference is quite steep...
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Zak Smith
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The Ranger Magpuls do not increase the side-to-side width of the mags nor the front-to-back length, which allows them to seat all the way down in some mag pouches (in which the old style would hang up on the pouch mouth). They can be "stacked" side to side in 2- or 3-mag mag pouches without being a tight fit, which the old style caused.
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Zak Smith
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[ link to larger image ]
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Zak Smith
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[ link to larger image ]SapperLeader
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Wow, the barrel turned out really nice. I know the color is coyote brown, but what kind of paint did you use to paint it ? Im thinking of painting some of my rifles, and Im still deciding on which paint to use.
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Zak Smith
Member
in hindsight....
Zak,
In hindsight, what do you think of the Brownells Aluma-Hyde II vs. Norrels Moly coat in direct comparison to one and other given the same application?
BBL and magazines that you've coated on that particular piece?
Just curious......thanks for any reply!
~L
Zak,
In hindsight, what do you think of the Brownells Aluma-Hyde II vs. Norrels Moly coat in direct comparison to one and other given the same application?
BBL and magazines that you've coated on that particular piece?
Just curious......thanks for any reply!
~L
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Zak Smith
Member
Aluma-Hyde II sticks pretty well to anodized aluminum and quite well to "plastic" stuff (e.g. Cav MKII lower).
Norrells is more durable, but is a paint to use because it requires curing in the oven at an elevated temp.
I prefer Dura-Coat. It is epoxy based (you mix it before you spray it). It's almost impossible to screw up the application with a good airbrush, it looks good, and is very durable afterwards.
Here's some stuff we did in Dura-Coat
AI skins-- http://apollo.demigod.org/~zak/DigiCam/duracoat/
Barrel on the midlength-- http://apollo.demigod.org/~zak/DigiCam/Midlength-16/?next=A100_1702_img.jpg
A bunch of rifles--
http://www.alansamuel.com/images/latestwork/latestwork.html
Norrells is more durable, but is a paint to use because it requires curing in the oven at an elevated temp.
I prefer Dura-Coat. It is epoxy based (you mix it before you spray it). It's almost impossible to screw up the application with a good airbrush, it looks good, and is very durable afterwards.
Here's some stuff we did in Dura-Coat
AI skins-- http://apollo.demigod.org/~zak/DigiCam/duracoat/
Barrel on the midlength-- http://apollo.demigod.org/~zak/DigiCam/Midlength-16/?next=A100_1702_img.jpg
A bunch of rifles--
http://www.alansamuel.com/images/latestwork/latestwork.html
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