Brubz
Member
I just registered for the first time on GunBroker you guys have any advice for me what to watch out for do's and don'ts?
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- Thread starter Brubz
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Barr
Member
Line up a local FFL for transfers. Always look for multiple positive feedbacks, look to see how they respond to any neutral or negative feedbacks. Good sellers respond to questions and provide many high quality photographs.
SunnySlopes
Member
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- Nov 3, 2011
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I don't do biz with anyone with no feedback. I also don't buy anything that doesn't have a lot of quality, close up pictures. Read the descriptions very carefully.
Also, if the seller is a FFL with a brick and mortar shop, I have contacted them to transact a deal sans Gunbroker for a reduced price.
For openers.
Also, if the seller is a FFL with a brick and mortar shop, I have contacted them to transact a deal sans Gunbroker for a reduced price.
For openers.
OP
OP
Brubz
Member
Barr: I've done that already hooked up with a Target World transfer fee of $25 guy even said I could come in and he'll walk me through how to do it if need be
north east redneck
Contributing Member
Positive feedback
Open to questions/general communication
Lots of pics
And don't get caught up in bidding wars
Open to questions/general communication
Lots of pics
And don't get caught up in bidding wars
lionking
Member
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- Jul 6, 2006
- Messages
- 3,109
beware of a seller with little or no feedback. Beware of those that won't show detailed good quality photos because what they don't show is as important as what they show. Don't get into a bidding war if you know you are going WAY above what the gun should be for. Look who's bidding, if there are a lot of new registered bidders and they keep bumping up the bid, might be a shill bidder.
Follow all the guidance above. I would add, find out what the cost is 'out the door'. That is, add in the "credit card fees" and shipping costs. Add in the cost your FFL will charge you for the transfer. Then your max bid will be whatever you are willing to pay for that item in person, less those fees.
Also, bid low the first few times. Be willing to lose the first few auctions. This will be practice.
Also, bid low the first few times. Be willing to lose the first few auctions. This will be practice.
Ohen Cepel
Member
Buy locally if you can. As Zahn points out you can often pay $100 or more on top of the bid. I think they have to charge sales tax for your home state now also. Plus, have the risk of a bad deal or something not being up to your expectations which I why I like local anytime possible.
Also, ask your dealer if he can get it in for you. In normal times they often could do that for less than the total GB price.
Also, ask your dealer if he can get it in for you. In normal times they often could do that for less than the total GB price.
A good way to stay out of bidding trouble is to set a max amount for yourself on a specific auction - and stick to it.
A reference source is to do a "completed auctions" search. Say you are looking to buy a Beretta 92. Search completed auctions (advanced search) for Beretta 92s , see what they went for. Decide for yourself if that is a good value. Then , if you wish to dive into the pool , do so only after establishing your own personal limit.
Acting on impulse on an auction site is exciting - but perilous.
Feedback , good images , test out communication with the seller while there is still plenty of time left on the auction , know your limits. Make sure you check the sellers' return policy. And patience.
I have had many good experiences with Gunbroker. Good luck , good hunting.
A reference source is to do a "completed auctions" search. Say you are looking to buy a Beretta 92. Search completed auctions (advanced search) for Beretta 92s , see what they went for. Decide for yourself if that is a good value. Then , if you wish to dive into the pool , do so only after establishing your own personal limit.
Acting on impulse on an auction site is exciting - but perilous.
Feedback , good images , test out communication with the seller while there is still plenty of time left on the auction , know your limits. Make sure you check the sellers' return policy. And patience.
I have had many good experiences with Gunbroker. Good luck , good hunting.
I have bought at in-person and online auctions for years. I'm talking about real-deal online, where there is an actual auctioneer and people are in person and online bidding, such as Proxibid and PurpleWave. I am constantly amazed at how people get caught up in the energy of an auction and end up overpaying. It happens on GunBroker too. Don't do that! Have an absolute max number, and then don't ever go above it.
If I win more than 25% to 30% of the GB items I bid on, I get worried. I am frugal, cheap even. I know what something is selling for in other auctions - the "completed listings" that Waveski mentions - and I know what I'm willing to pay. Then I factor in all the costs, and then I bid way less, just to dip my toes in the water and gauge the other bidders interest in the item.
Special note: watch out for PayPal and sellers who want to be paid via "friends and family". Sellers on GB are not your friends or family and you have no recourse if the deal goes badly.
If I win more than 25% to 30% of the GB items I bid on, I get worried. I am frugal, cheap even. I know what something is selling for in other auctions - the "completed listings" that Waveski mentions - and I know what I'm willing to pay. Then I factor in all the costs, and then I bid way less, just to dip my toes in the water and gauge the other bidders interest in the item.
Special note: watch out for PayPal and sellers who want to be paid via "friends and family". Sellers on GB are not your friends or family and you have no recourse if the deal goes badly.
Captcurt
Member
Many of these answers can and do apply to selling as well. I get 1 or 2 non-payments a month. I had one that said that he wouldn't pay by certified check or money order. All he had to do was look at my feedback and read the types of payment that I take. I don't take credit cards because they charge around 3%. That is a pretty big cut on a consignment item. I did turn him in as non-payment. My feedback is approximately half of my sales, so that puts total sales around 1000. I have had 2 or 3 bad reviews. Hell I get that many at church.
wankerjake
Member
Any advise on selling? Do you think it’s worth it to pay for the “showcase” or “featured” listings?
TomJ
Contributing Member
Only pay with a credit card.If you're a victim of fraud you have recourse. If you send a check or money order it's difficult if not impossible to get that money back.
OP
OP
Brubz
Member
Thanks for all the advice guys I started off by bidding on some ammo just to get the hang of it a + sellers no credit card fees we'll see what happens
Elkins45
Member
Just a caution: on any sort of popular item it’s almost impossible to get a bargain on GB because too many other people want it, and because you’ll have to pay shipping and the FFL transfer fee on top of the winning bid. This is especially true of handguns unless the seller has an FFL and can ship thru the post office.
The only good deals to be found with any frequency on Gunbroker these days are for oddball and less popular items, or for the occasional hard to find magazine or accessory. A couple of years ago I got a Sig P239 for a little over $300 total...but it is 40 cal and DAO. The same gun in 9mm would have been close to double the price.
The only good deals to be found with any frequency on Gunbroker these days are for oddball and less popular items, or for the occasional hard to find magazine or accessory. A couple of years ago I got a Sig P239 for a little over $300 total...but it is 40 cal and DAO. The same gun in 9mm would have been close to double the price.
Captcurt
Member
If I have a really nice piece like the Krieghoff that shipped last week, or the H&K SP5 I will put them on Showcase. Any high dollar or rare gun will get at least a feature listing. Standard, run-of-the-mill guns get a counter and that is about all. Main thing is give a good description and try to get good pictures. You might stay away from reserves too. Many buyers won't even look at a reserve listing. I know I don't.
denton
Member
Buy from someone who has a physical mailing address, if you can find one. Google the address to see that it exists. Ask for a phone number, and talk with the seller. IOW, don't let the seller be anonymous.
Amen.. I freakin hate when I see an ad for an expensive gun and its one or two crappy pictures.
You want me to look at your 5000 dollar gun you better get off your lazy butt and take some good pics.
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OP:
Also try and look at their feedback..(Past auctions only stay for a limited time)
If its all from buying cheap crap and they are selling a high dollar item. I would be wary.
OP
OP
Brubz
Member
I see what you guys mean about the prices nothing to write home about I even looked up a spare magazine for my Kimber micro 9 and the cheapest price they had was $20 more than I could get it directly from Kimber!
Remember the patience part. On any given item , take a week or 2 , more even , looking for the best potential deals and putting them on your watch list for monitoring. Enter reasonable top bids and let the site auto bid if you wish - stick to your predetermined limits.
While it is true that it is becoming increasingly difficult to find good deals , it is also true that they can still be found.
Example: Just a couple weeks back I got a Taurus 865 stainless 6 shot 3" bbl .38 sp w/ night sight for $397. Most go for $450 - $480.
On small items such as that mag you are looking for , if you see a good price make sure that the seller is not making up the difference in shipping cost.
Ks5shooter
Contributing Member
Captcurt
Member
Don't bid on any of my listing.
TomJ
Contributing Member
As a seller you have the right to set your policies. Not every seller eats the credit card processing fees, and I've bought a number of items where I paid that fee. It was worth the extra 3% to me to have that protection. While there are many honest sellers on Gunbroker there are also people there committing fraud. It's not always easy to tell the difference, and I will never send someone I don't know a check or money order. There are too many potential problems. In additon to them possibly being a scammer I have no way of knowing whether their definition of the condition of a gun is the same as mine.
Just some food for thought from buyer's perspective. Giving buyers the option to pay with a credit card at their expense can boost sales. I was recently looking for a government size 1911 chambered in 45. What I really wanted was a Talon from Nighthawk Custom but didn't feel comfortable spending $3600 for one. I came across one for $1999 on Guns.com which was advertised as being in excellent condition. Even with me paying the 3% credit card fee it was stil a bargain and I bought it. The gun was as advertised and I got the gun I wanted. The seller made a quick sale at no additional cost as I paid the credit card fee, and everyone won.
lionking
Member
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- Jul 6, 2006
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- 3,109
This is true if things went haywire in the transaction however I have sent money orders for GB sales several times and it all worked out fine, it goes back to looking at feedback of the seller and staying away from sellers with little or no feedback.
Not every seller can accept credit cards especially private sellers and also many that do hit you with a 3% or so fee for using a card.
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