New Reloader Question

[TomJ]

I'm brand new to reloading and will be setting everything up in the next couple of weeks. I'm ultimately going to load a number of calibers (38, 9, 40, 45, 243 and 223), but was thinking I should start out reloading 38's. My logic is that my S&W Model 66 and Henry Rifle will be more forgiving of mistakes than semi automatics as they're not relying on the ammunition to chamber the next round. Not having done this before, I'm not sure what those mistakes may be and am wondering if that is where I should start or if another caliber would be a better choice.

 

[DR915]

I would start out with pistols calibers first. Little to no trimming at all. 380 and 9 is less forgiving IMO. I would do 45 first. My reasoning is that 380,9 and 40 are smaller cases and can build over pressure with a deeper seated bullet faster than with say 45 acp. Always start low on charges and work up. Stay away from max until you chrono your rounds. I am sure you will get a whole lot more advise. Just go slow and ask questions. Good luck!

 

[JohnhenrySTL]

I think your reasoning is sound. My first loads were .38 special as well. Although most of it is similar in practice, .38s I believe are the easiest I load. Read a book, stay within spec, and never mass produce a load until you have tried out 25 of them or so. I have loaded about 10,000 rounds and still consider myself new.

 

[matthewpittinger]

Yes go slow, the only dumb question is the one you don't ask! What kind of setup are you using single stage or progressive?

 

[Reloadron]

38 Special is as good as anything else. Ask questions as you progress along. Once you have gotten several straight walled handgun cartridges done the rest just fall into place, unless I am forgetting something. I never had the advantage/help of the Internet and gun forums. Even the littlest question? Just ask. You will enjoy hand loading, just a learning curve to get over.

Ron

 

[TomJ]

Yes go slow, the only dumb question is the one you don't ask! What kind of setup are you using single stage or progressive?

It's a Hornady Classic single stage. From what I learned, there seems to be too much going on at one time with a progressive set up for someone who's new. Once I've gained enough experience, if I'm shooting enough to warrant buying a progressive press due to the need for higher volumes, I'll consider that.

 

[9mmepiphany]

I think your reasoning is sound.

1. A straight walled case is always better to start with...eliminates the 9mm, .243 and .223
2. Low pressure rounds give you a larger margin for error...eliminates the .40

Between the .38 and the .45, I found the .38 easier to start with as the seating depth is easily seen in relation the crimp grove in the bullet...less measuring, just eyeball it until you're close.

The downside to the .38 Spl is that the case is long in relation to the likely powder charge, so be sure to check for consistent powder level in every case

 

[jaysouth]

.38 Spl is a great place to start. Just remember that the case is so long that a double or triple charge may not overflow the case.

Get into the habit of charging a case with powder then immediately set it on the shell holder and seat the bullet. Some like to charge 50 rounds at a time, then seat bullets. If you elect this method, keep a flashlight handy and very carefully inspect each case before seating bullets.

Buy two or three reloading manuals and READ them.

 

[Olympus]

Like others have said, 38 is your best caliber to start with. 3.0gr of Bullseye with a cast lead bullet is my favorite target load. Super easy shooting. Go luck and welcome up reloading.

 

[matthewpittinger]

38 is great place to start. +1 for seating bullets as you charge. 20 years in I still do this when doing anything single stage.

 

[VanGoghComplex]

TomJ, welcome!

I started with 38s a couple of years ago, and by all accounts and my personal experience, it's one of the most forgiving ways to get into loading.

The only thing I would say is that I've read about lever action rifles chambered for .357 magnum not liking .38 specials, but I don't think that's every rifle and IIRC it depends too on your choice of bullet. Read up on that to be sure.

.357 and .38 can both be loaded with the same dies, so that's another benefit to starting with that caliber; you're starting with two for the price of one die set. My RCBS .38 dies even came with a spacer; once I'd adjusted my dies properly for .38, just throw the spacer in and it does .357 without further adjustment.

 

[johnc486]

All I can add is when you start shooting your reloads, if you get just a pop, STOP shooting, unload your gun and check the barrel for a stuck round (SQUIB) and remove obstruction before proceeding. This I can speak from experience when I first started reloading, it was a real scare. If you do as others have stated and check each and every load before placing the bullet, you'll be fine. Good luck and it's another hobby in itself, reloading is fun.

 

[Mauser69]

Your first step must be to get a good comprehensive reloading book and READ all the technical details and boring stuff in the first half! Many folks have recommended the ABCs of Reloading (I do not have it, so cannot comment), and I will recommend a big Lyman manual - I haven't looked at a new one recently, but of my older books, there is more "stuff" to learn from that book than any other. I have also seen strong references to Richard Lee's reloading books.

I cannot stress enough that you should not attempt to start by just reading the instructions that may come with any equipment. That may teach you the technical details of how to operate it, but it will never give you the understanding of the principles and potential dangers that await an uniformed person. You need a comprehensive manual, not just a reloading guide.

 

[joem1945]

The .38 spl is a good caliber to start with. that's what I learned on. be sure to get a reloading book and read it at least twice BEFORE STARTING TO RELOAD I like the Lyman best. Go slow, it's not a race. Master one step at a time. ie Size and decap is step one. Prime cases is step two and so on. Good Luck and ask questions.

 

[TomJ]

Thanks for all the advice. The press I bought included Hornady's reloading book. I've been reading that. I just ordered the ABC's of Reloading and will read that as well before I get started.

 

[Mad Chemist]

Powders that work well for .38spl typically work well for .45acp too. May as well get the .45acp dies when you get your .38/.357 ones.

 

[billj888]

Start loading what you like to shoot the most. Learn to do everything right and then add another caliber if you want. It may be too time consuming to load all the calibers you have listed. Remember, you then have to spend time at the range to enjoy your work. I assume you have a full time job and other interests as well.

 

[stubbicatt]

A good primer for hand loading is to shoot a cap and ball revolver or a muzzle loading rifle. The fundamentals of loading smokeless metallic cartridges are very similar, the processes are a little different.

38's are a great cartridge, as is the 45.

Good luck.

 

[TomJ]

Start loading what you like to shoot the most. Learn to do everything right and then add another caliber if you want. It may be too time consuming to load all the calibers you have listed. Remember, you then have to spend time at the range to enjoy your work. I assume you have a full time job and other interests as well.

Bill,

I do have a busy schedule. I'm going to start with 38 and 45. Bulk 9mm ammo is inexpensive enough right now and the margin of error for a new reloader appears to be less, that while I will reload it I won't do so for a while. I'll do the other calibers once I gain experience and as needed.

Thanks,
Tom

 

[gwpercle]

38 special is excellent choice to begin with. Get yourself a Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook if you intend to load cast bullets. Lots of great information in there.
The easiest auto pistol is the 45 acp. It never gave me any trouble once I got the powder charge correct.
The one that gave me a few fits was the 9mm luger, that little stinker likes to be particular about every detail ...once sorted out though, it reloads ok!
Good luck, load safe.
Gary

 

[maxxhavoc]

All I can add is when you start shooting your reloads, if you get just a pop, STOP shooting, unload your gun and check the barrel for a stuck round (SQUIB) and remove obstruction before proceeding. This I can speak from experience when I first started reloading, it was a real scare. If you do as others have stated and check each and every load before placing the bullet, you'll be fine. Good luck and it's another hobby in itself, reloading is fun.

Remember this. It will happen, and not only with your reloads. I got a WWB no-powder squib, It does happen with even using factory ammo. You will know it when you hear it.

 

[mdi]

I too, commend your choice of the .38 Special to start with. This round has been reloaded 18 1/2 bazillion times for over 100 years and all the info about reloading/problems is available to you. The 38 is a very versatile and forgiving round and you can load everything from 95 gr. LRN to 200 gr. lead bullets. You can "hot rod" the round and load up some 110 JHP to around 1,000 fps (+P), or some loads of 148 gr wadcutters for below 800 fps. My Lyman 48th shows 10 different powders for the .38 and there are a few more that qualify as "good .38 powder".

Reloading a straight walled round is pretty straight forward and relatively easy; no worries on case length/trimming, seat bullets to the crimp groove/cannalure not worrying about OAL, and excellent case life. Whereas reloading for a semi-auto introduces a few more considerations; OAL is important for good feeding/chambering. Bullet profile is more critical. "Crimp" needs to be closely watched (too little and chambering problems arise. Too much and cases are bulged and can loosen bullets).

Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun .

 

[Mostly Lead]

I started with loading 38 Specials for an older Colt Model 357. The added margin of safety (38 Spc pressures in a 357 capable gun) gave me a nice feeling.

Same idea when I bought a Ruger Blackhawk in 45 Colt, nice knowing that it was going to handle the pressure of a standard load with a significant margin of safety still available.

Great advice to stick with the lower pressure rounds first of course. My additional two cents would be to load for your stoutest gun as well..

 

[Walkalong]

Yep, either .38 Spl or .45 ACP would be a great place to start.

For .45 ACP use the OAL the book uses where you get your data from. Or just pick a RN bullet and load it to around 1.260 to 1.265. There will be some variance, and that is normal. It will also be guaranteed to feed in your gun.

For .38 Spl crimp into the crimp groove on a lead, or coated lead, bullet, or the cannelure on a jacketed, and that is your OAL.