RCBS Questions from new reloader

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I have the Rock Chucker Supreme and am happy with it except for one minor annoyance. It is NOT going to catch spent primers without fiddling around a bit with the catcher assembly. Otherwise, it is as solid as can be, has a left or right handed screw in for the arm and performs flawlessly.

As to all of the other stuff in your picture, you are going to get a thousand opinions from a thousand posters. For a starting kit, it is fine. Just be prepared, over the next thousand or two thousand rounds to start replacing various equipment with others that may suit you better. It is all a learning process. Will you be able to turn out rounds for plinking? Sure. But you may want a more accurate scale or powder dispenser or an easier to set up set of dies. Again, it is all a learning process.

One small example (and I have one)- see the deburring tool in the middle of the picture? IIRC, it is about $20 or so. It is a PITA to use. You would be better off with with two screw on Lyman parts for the same money. They go onto the same handle you have in the picture for your brush. No wear and tear on your fingers. Also, there is a hand held priming tool in the picture. You might prefer a ram type that screws into your press like a die. The Allen key or hex wrench- if you need one, any big box store or Harbor Freight will have US and Metric perpetually on sale for about $7 each. Also, RCBS dies always come with a hex wrench thrown in as part of the price. Just saying...........
 
One small example (and I have one)- see the deburring tool in the middle of the picture? IIRC, it is about $20 or so. It is a PITA to use. You would be better off with with two screw on Lyman parts for the same money. They go onto the same handle you have in the picture for your brush. No wear and tear on your fingers. Also, there is a hand held priming tool in the picture. You might prefer a ram type that screws into your press like a die. The Allen key or hex wrench- if you need one, any big box store or Harbor Freight will have US and Metric perpetually on sale for about $7 each. Also, RCBS dies always come with a hex wrench thrown in as part of the price. Just saying...........

I agree. I have an RCBD hand chamfer and deburring tool and mine is not as good as the Lyman. When I put my RCBS trim mate into service I also replaced the RCBS chamfer and deburring tool that came with it and installed the Lyman.

I never cared for the handleld priming tools. The RCBS bench mounted priming tool, a bit pricy but is a fantastic tool.
 
The first thing you need to do is read the book. Did you get the Nosler book or the Speer book? They sometime switch books. Buy a few more books and read them. Go slow and take your time and ask questions.
Did you buy shell holders? RCBS dies do not come with them, and you will need them.
The small arm on the front of the press is for priming and not needed if you use the hand primer. The powder measure can be mounted using the included bar if screwed to the bench with the measure hanging over the edge. Or a powder measure stand can be purchased. Hornady makes one using the same collets as the dies, and it allows for quick empting of any leftover powder. I prefer to mount the measure opposite the way it is in the picture. That way the handle is in the down position when the drum is in the drop position. Mounted the way it is shown any vibration can cause the powder to compact into the drum and through off the charge. Also a powder baffle might be a good idea.
The old style case block only holds 40, the new one, the one you got holds 50 cases. I don’t think you will need to replace anything in that kit for a long time. It is capable of producing ammunition far more accurate than most people can shoot. In the future you may want to produce more quickly but leave that for the future.
 
Mauser

Probably a better solution is to make a single mounting bracket with a hole big enough to go under the bushing adapter mounted in the top of the press (it will replace that big black die adapter you see in the picture) and just leave the mounting bar permanently attached to the top of the press.

And if you have purchased Lee dies, this all becomes almost a moot point...

No, I've purchased RCBS die sets for both .41 Magnum and .44 Magnum.

Other than perhaps obscure data for light loads, there has never been a .41 Special. .41 Magnum has no "Special"-length brass; it is the same-length brass as is .357 Mag and .44 Mag.

I am interested in loading .44 Special. See the .44 Magnum die set I've linked you to, below. It claims to be a set for both Magnum and Special brass.

As for mounting the powder measure... I'll try to mount the Uniflow bracket in between the press and the bushing adapter as you suggested.




And now I must chastise you a little - your final question indicates you have done no learning or research before diving into this - very bad.

No, no, no... it was never my intention to start hacking away first thing. I am aware of more than I let on by posting that feeble attempt at humor. Please overlook that. As I mentioned in my very first post, I've been on the sidelines of the reloading game for quite awhile and am very aware of reasons why things are done the way they're done.

If you're at all aware of the sheetstorm in California 2nd Amendment laws, politics and the recent, egregious restrictions now being placed upon residents here, you may understand why I wanted to get a jump on acquiring reloading components, powder and primers. Bo0lits are easier to source and I shall cast my own, eventually.

Too, the .41 Magnum is the main reason for my desire to learn to reload.

I am going to be spending the next few weeks at least READING, and happily! so, before I ever touch any empty brass (except when shooting!) or measure any powder. Please rest assured, my good man, that I'm not going off out of battery, here.

Also, not that it matters much to anyone else, I have some machine experience. I have run a mill, and engine lathe and a camshaft grinder (Engle Racing Cams). I can read and use micrometers and calipers. Mechanical aptitude isn't something I am lacking, but your warnings are appreciated for their intentions. Thank you, and again, for the third time, for your participation here in this thread. Let's continue:




Finally, I will answer your question about die "sets" (you will also lean this in any book): All reloading requires at least two dies (the "set"). Bottleneck cartridges can be decapped, resized AND neck expended (required to allow a new bullet to be inserted after resizing) with a single die, but you still need a second die to properly insert and seat a new bullet. Therefore, rifle caliber dies typically consist of a 2-die set. Straight-wall cartridges cannot be neck expanded in the same die that is used to resize the case; therefore, handgun caliber dies typically are 3-die sets.

Excellent.

These are the two die sets I plan to work with for the forseeable future:

RCBS Carbide 3-Die Set 41 Remington Magnum

482329.jpg



RCBS Carbide 3-Die Set 44 Special, 44 Remington Magnum

365718.jpg




And regarding components, I'll reply to your typically-excellent post by saying:

Your comments on magnum primers are noted. There are those who load rifle and who won't use magnum rifle primers except in certain situations. I'll be reading more on that subject soon, as I wish to load .308 Winchester.

The two cartridges I'll be loading in the beginning require large pistol primers. I already have here ten 100-ct sleeves of CCI Large Pistol, and there are more on the way.

I'll be using Unique (and have on hand 5 lbs of it for now), with AA#5 ready to order along with Universal (when Midway's stock is replenished). At that time I'll acquire more CCI Large Pistol Primers, and I'm going to also try two other major name brands' primers, just because.

I have yet to acquire bullets (so you see! I am not ready to load, yet), but I'm looking at semi-wadcutter Keith designs, and some plated RNFP... and I will also pay close attention to any load data these suppliers may provide with their slugs.


Now, where's that truck with my MidwayUSA order?

:)
 
The press will drop some spent primers on the floor. If that bothers you here is a tip. Get a straw the size you get from McD’s or B King and put it inside the ram, cut it off so that it clears the shell holder, about 2 inches long, and cut a small notch in the back at the bottom. Remove the straw when priming on the press. That will help a lot but not 100%.
 
viking499

I started out 30 years ago with a Rockchucker. Still going strong. Recently purchased a Dillion 550 for those high count rounds (9 and 223). But everything else will still be done on the RCBS.

Outstanding. Great to hear!



One thing I did do on the RCBS a few years ago was to add the Hornady quick change conversion bushing to the top of the press and fitted most of my dies with the quick change bushing. It made changing dies in and out a whole lot easier for me.

Excellent advice, and that is exactly what was suggested to me earlier in this thread. That conversion was indeed ordered. Thank you!

:)
 
fotheringill

I have the Rock Chucker Supreme and am happy with it except for one minor annoyance. It is NOT going to catch spent primers without fiddling around a bit with the catcher assembly. Otherwise, it is as solid as can be, has a left or right handed screw in for the arm and performs flawlessly.

X-Ring has posted some advice on this issue! and I'm sure that with all of your help here I can whittle up a solution.



As to all of the other stuff in your picture, you are going to get a thousand opinions from a thousand posters. For a starting kit, it is fine. Just be prepared, over the next thousand or two thousand rounds to start replacing various equipment with others that may suit you better. It is all a learning process. Will you be able to turn out rounds for plinking? Sure. But you may want a more accurate scale or powder dispenser or an easier to set up set of dies. Again, it is all a learning process.

I expect so, and I'm prepared to adapt. :)



One small example (and I have one)- see the deburring tool in the middle of the picture? IIRC, it is about $20 or so. It is a PITA to use. You would be better off with with two screw on Lyman parts for the same money. They go onto the same handle you have in the picture for your brush. No wear and tear on your fingers. Also, there is a hand held priming tool in the picture. You might prefer a ram type that screws into your press like a die. The Allen key or hex wrench- if you need one, any big box store or Harbor Freight will have US and Metric perpetually on sale for about $7 each. Also, RCBS dies always come with a hex wrench thrown in as part of the price. Just saying...........

Good deburring and case prep equipment will be acquired, definitely... and I've plenty of hex wrenches and in many forms (wrenches, bits, etc...)

Thanks!

:)
 
thomas19

I have an RCBD hand chamfer and deburring tool and mine is not as good as the Lyman. When I put my RCBS trim mate into service I also replaced the RCBS chamfer and deburring tool that came with it and installed the Lyman.

I never cared for the handleld priming tools. The RCBS bench mounted priming tool, a bit pricy but is a fantastic tool.

Thanks again, and I'm looking at the Lyman bits. And I've posted my surprise at your suggestion of the bench-mounted RCBS priming tool. Again, great stuff!



X-Ring

The first thing you need to do is read the book. Did you get the Nosler book or the Speer book? They sometime switch books. Buy a few more books and read them. Go slow and take your time and ask questions.

The Kit should come with the Nosler book. I'm looking forward to reading it. I like what some folks have done with Nosler rifle bullets, that's for sure.



Did you buy shell holders? RCBS dies do not come with them, and you will need them.

Yes.



The small arm on the front of the press is for priming and not needed if you use the hand primer. The powder measure can be mounted using the included bar if screwed to the bench with the measure hanging over the edge. Or a powder measure stand can be purchased. Hornady makes one using the same collets as the dies, and it allows for quick empting of any leftover powder. I prefer to mount the measure opposite the way it is in the picture. That way the handle is in the down position when the drum is in the drop position. Mounted the way it is shown any vibration can cause the powder to compact into the drum and through off the charge. Also a powder baffle might be a good idea.

The old style case block only holds 40, the new one, the one you got holds 50 cases. I don’t think you will need to replace anything in that kit for a long time. It is capable of producing ammunition far more accurate than most people can shoot. In the future you may want to produce more quickly but leave that for the future.

10-4!



The press will drop some spent primers on the floor. If that bothers you here is a tip. Get a straw the size you get from McD’s or B King and put it inside the ram, cut it off so that it clears the shell holder, about 2 inches long, and cut a small notch in the back at the bottom. Remove the straw when priming on the press. That will help a lot but not 100%.

Thanks for the heads up. Looks like I'll have to "fettle" a solution to that one. Your post will help. Thanks again.

:)
 
Did not see listed..

I did not read your whole thread..

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1165236200/hornady-sure-loc-die-locking-ring-7-8-14-thread
^^^
This is something that you will WANT and can USE..Those RCBS brass retainer set screws do NOT cut it..

Buy them by the SIX pack you WILL use them.

Since you are into machine/tools, cut yourself down a 1 1/8" open end wrench about 4"-5" long on the open end..Works PERFECT for the Hornady lock rings.

I have these rings on most ALL of the dies that I use often..Bill.:D;)
 
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Thanks, billybob. I have the Lyman version of those but just three. I'll need more, for sure.


So my gear arrived this evening and I have my Nosler book. See you fellers later. I've got some reading to do. :D
 
Re: Spent Primers

I now use duct tape to make a cushion between the frame and the back of the plastic catcher. Adjusted just so will take care of most of the primers.
 
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