New Rifle - need help

[iXanadu]

Hey guys,

Brand new here to this forum. I'm a handgun guy, who recently acquired an X-Bolt Medallion in 270 cal. with the intent of going hunting for the first time in 35 years. The only long gun experience I have to speak of are shotguns, mostly shooting feathers. I'm providing these details so you don't feel like you have to pull a punch. If you suspect I'm ignorant about something, your right. Just spell it out for me, and it will remedy the ignorance pretty quickly.

Platform:
Browning X-bolt, stainless steel barrel .270 cal.
Leopold VX-6 2-12x42mm Optics.

Bore sighted by folks at Dick's sporting goods.

They sent me home with instructions on zeroing the scope in and the following ammunition.

2 Boxes Winchester ballistic silvertip 130gr for deer hunting. ($36.00 ea)
2 Boxes Federal Power Shok 130gr to zero the gun in and general target shooting. ($20.00 ea)
I printed Zero'ing targets on 8x11 sheets of paper.

Disclaimer: This gun is way more accurate that I am. Shooter error is assumed for some of my challenges.

I was using the X7 sand bag shooting rests.

The range folk don't trust a bore sight, so you have to zero at 30yards before going to 100, and zero at 100 before going to 200 which is what this gun/scope calls for in the instructions.


30 Yards: 2 outlier's , then 4 shots 1/2 inch from the X with 3 touching. USING FEDERAL TARGET AMMO

100 Yards: 5-6 rounds to dial in, then 1" groups. USING FEDERAL TARGET AMMO.

200 Yards: 4-5 rounds of FEDERAL to tighten group up close to the X (1"). Then several rounds just to learn to breath, and shoot. Gun was shooting fine, my son and I just "so so".

200 Yards: Time for the WINCHESTER BALLISTIC SILVER TIP at 200 yards before going to 300. I only brought 1/2 box (10 rounds). First shot not even on paper. Tried a couple more, couldn't find paper. Figured round was shooting flatter/higher than the Federal, so adjusted know to raise POI. Nothing. Long story short, in a few minutes I shot all 10 rounds, never found paper, and managed to kill my zero. I did stupid stuff like read the dial backwards, and move up when I needed to move down... It was a real cluster'F'.

Since I was out of the hunting rounds, when I went back to Federal Rounds I was off paper. I didn't want to wait for the range to go cold, and start back over at 30 yards so I bought a couple boxes of Federal and proceeded to get squared away again, at 200 yards. When we left, my son and I was each throwing 1-3" groups at 200 yards, and 6" groups at 300 yards. I have no doubt that a better shooter would be shooting near MOA with this rifle in similar circumstances.

My Problem: I have NO PROOF or IDEA if I could hit a deer at 100-200 yards with my "hunting round", it hasn't been zeroed. Obviously I have to go back and zero this round in.

Questions:

Is it even remotely possible that the Winchester round shoots that drastically different than the Federal round?

If each ammo type (bullet weight, manufacturer...) is this different, then seems like you have to marry yourself to a single bullet for target/hunting?

What is the consensus on the best round (manufacturer, weight. . .) for deer hunting. (Hunting in VA, medium/small sized white tail)?

Is it practical to record the scope-dial numbers and adjust it on the fly back to proven positions at the range for different ammo?

I really hope to get in the woods this season, but don't want to go out half cocked.

 

[Roadkill]

Is it even remotely possible that the Winchester round shoots that drastically different than the Federal round?

Yes


If each ammo type (bullet weight, manufacturer...) is this different, then seems like you have to marry yourself to a single bullet for target/hunting?

Yes

What is the consensus on the best round (manufacturer, weight. . .) for deer hunting. (Hunting in VA, medium/small sized white tail)?

150g for me works best in my .30 cal rifles.

Is it practical to record the scope-dial numbers and adjust it on the fly back to proven positions at the range for different ammo?

Nope - what i do with my hunting rifles is shoot whatever on the range ( I reload) then zero with only the hunting ammo I'll be using. That's all I'll do with it until I'm through.

 

[Lovesbeer99]

Your ammo could be off by several inches at 300 yards, easily. How big is your target. Set up a backboard 24x24 at a minimum and get a HighPower rifle target of the same size like an SR target. Don't worry about the size of the black what you need is a clean backer so you can see where the shots are going. If you don't have a large Highpower target use the white side of wrapping paper or something similar. An off white color is best.

Also, if the light is not good you might have problems seeing your bullet holes at 300 unless you have a really good scope. I know that from 200 - 300 yards with my AR in .223 the MOA is about 4 (other people its 3). But either gets me on paper.

Just an FYI - for deer just about any good hunting bullet will do the job if you hit your target. Even the cheap Federal soft points will do. You're not competing and you don't need to be dead center. If you're 3 inches off at 200 yards you're still in the kill zone.

 

[iXanadu]

Thanks Roadkill and Lovesbeer99.

On my next outing, I'm going to staple up a paper IDPA target (backwards) with clean side out, then staple my Zero targets to that. This way I'll have a 22x34 clean space to see where the bullet hits. We rented a 60'x mounted scope so one of us could call shots. The scope on the gun could just barely make out the X at 200 yards, and a blur in the center of the target where the X is at for 300 yards. This and my progressive glasses, mean I'll never be a bulls eye shooter. But I do want to be confident I can shoot 3" groups at 300 yards from a solid rest. I gotta think, that shooting in the woods or from a tree stand on a shooting stick will be more challenging and 3" will become 6" real quick.

My bigger dilemma is finding a way to improve my skill without shooting $36.00 a box ammo, and still have my gun zero'ed with my hunting round.

Any comment on accuracy of the Winchester ballistic silver-tip? In the spring, I'll pickup some die's and start working up a hunting round but until then I want to use a retail round that has a consensus behind it.

So - assuming I'm shooting a less expensive round for skill building, and a more expensive round for hunting, how does the following sound for an approach.

Start at 200 yards, zero to the target round and shoot away, 200, 300 and 100 yards.

Before leaving, zero in the hunting round at 200 yards. Take note of the different setting for target vs hunting round, to minimize the number of rounds used for zeroing in.

Does all the dial adjusting have a negative impact on the scope?

Any problems with this approach?

I feel that I'll never shoot at, or past 300 yards without a lot more practice. I just want to find a way to do it as affordable as possible.

 

[RainDodger]

Similar to Roadkill.... get yourself on paper and get your hunting rounds (whichever they are) exactly where you want them. Then, shoot the other stuff only for groups, not to cover the "X". I hand load a lot of different loads looking for accurate cartridge combinations. I generally don't re-set the scope unless I'm settling on a "standard" cartridge for a rifle that I'll grab if/when I want to kill something. That goes for pretty much all my rifles.

I do find it curious (but not too weird) that the Silver Tips are completely off the paper. Usually I find that significantly different loads are at least on paper. Good luck!

 

[Ohio Gun Guy]

you might find some federal hunting ammo somewhere else, loaded to similar specs as the "Range" ammo.

 

[iXanadu]

Similar to Roadkill.... get yourself on paper and get your hunting rounds (whichever they are) exactly where you want them. Then, shoot the other stuff only for groups, not to cover the "X". I hand load a lot of different loads looking for accurate cartridge combinations. I generally don't re-set the scope unless I'm settling on a "standard" cartridge for a rifle that I'll grab if/when I want to kill something. That goes for pretty much all my rifles.

I do find it curious (but not too weird) that the Silver Tips are completely off the paper. Usually I find that significantly different loads are at least on paper. Good luck!

I think it is because my paper was 8x11 printed targets. So I have 6" of error top and bottom, and 4" of error left and right. Plus, I'm not a wonderful shooter just yet, but I'll get there.

Great tip on "shooting for groups". I'm sure that's what Roadkill meant, but I didn't understand that at first. Makes perfect sense now.

 

[wayspr]

I'd hunt with the Federal Power Shoks. Sounds like they shoot pretty well in your weapon, already zeroed, and power shoks have killed thousands of deer. Just because the Winchesters are more expensive doesn't mean they will be more accurate.

 

[witchhunter]

Nothing wrong with the Federal ammo for deer. I would only use one brand and weight of ammo, hunt with what you sight in with. When you change loads, start closer then move out, it saves ammo.

 

[HexHead]

Do you use an iPhone? I d/l'd an app called iSnipe for $9.99. Enter the ballistic info for the round you're using. Data should be on the box or the ammo manufacturer's website. Enter the distance you have the rifle zero'd at, and it tells you how many clicks to adjust your scope for other distances.
For instance, I bore sighted my scope on my .257 WBY at 25 yards. Once I zero'd it at that distance, I looked at the chart for 100 yards and it said to set it -11 clicks. That got me within an inch or two at 100 yards. Reset it for 100 yard zero and it had me go up 4 clicks for 200 yards and I was on target.

I love this app. You can preview it at iSnipe.ca.

 

[WVRJ]

Your point of impact may well be a lot different from one brand/type of ammo to another.I hunt the WV whitetails,and when I used to use a 270,just about any 130 gr load would knock em flat to 300 and beyond if I did my part.If you're getting that kind of accuracy from the Federals,I'd just use them with plenty of confidence.You could dial in a scope setting for both loads,but that tends to complicate things.Be my luck to have it set for Federals and be hunting with Winchesters.

 

[iXanadu]

Wvvr, Waysp and Witchhunter: Good points on standardizing on Federal. I asked for "hunting" and "target" rounds and this is what I got. I spent so much time researching gun and scope that I didn't want to think too hard about ammo. I knew I would dig into it big time in the spring when I setup to reload for rifle.

I'll either shoot the Federal Power Shok exclusively for now, or switch to a similarly priced alternative based on a little more research. This way I can practice as much as I want without breaking the bank, and feel confident in the field that I'm going to shoot true.

 

[iXanadu]

Do you use an iPhone? I d/l'd an app called iSnipe for $9.99. Enter the ballistic info for the round you're using. Data should be on the box or the ammo manufacturer's website. Enter the distance you have the rifle zero'd at, and it tells you how many clicks to adjust your scope for other distances.
For instance, I bore sighted my scope on my .257 WBY at 25 yards. Once I zero'd it at that distance, I looked at the chart for 100 yards and it said to set it -11 clicks. That got me within an inch or two at 100 yards. Reset it for 100 yard zero and it had me go up 4 clicks for 200 yards and I was on target.

I love this app. You can preview it at iSnipe.ca.

I do use and iphone and do love my apps. I will give it a look. Thank you.

 

[jmr40]

You are trying to run before you have learned to walk. For a new shooter 300 yards is not realistic.

My bigger dilemma is finding a way to improve my skill without shooting $36.00 a box ammo, and still have my gun zero'ed with my hunting round.

Pick one load and stay with it for now. Get it zeroed at 100 yards and work on being a better shot at 100 before you start shooing at longer ranges. Even in the Western states most shots are taken under 200 yards, well under 100 in Eastern states.

Go home and dry fire the gun several thousand times. It is free, will break in the rifle and do more to make you a good shot than anything you can do. Even at the range squeeze off some dry fire rounds from the sandbags. You will see the crosshairs move if you are flinching.

Buy a 22 for cheap practice. The only way to get really good is after thousands of rounds down range.

 

[iXanadu]

Jrm40:

You are right of course. I had given thought to purchasing a nice bolt action 22 with a 3x9 scope. Could probably pay for it with savings from ammo. This should help me with breathing control, sighting. . .

Have never shot one, past the top of a tall pine. What is the practical target range for 22?

 

[Art Eatman]

Per the Federal website, PowerShok is a soft-point, so it will kill a deer as well as anything else.

If you have any sort of informal and safe place to shoot, a .22 is wonderful for trying to kill tin cans when shooting from field positions: Offhand, sitting, kneeling, leaning against a tree, whatever. 25 to 50 yards is plenty good for practicing.

If you have a long hallway in your house, it's easy to build a bullet trap and shoot CB caps or Aguila Super Colibri.

 

[Abel]

Federal Power-Shok is fine for hunting. The guy at Dick's just sold you that as the "target" ammo because its cheaper. But if you research that specific loading, I think you'll find that its perfectly acceptable for killing deer & any CXP2 game or even CXP3 game at closer ranges.

If you want to shoot alot, the logical way to save money is to reload your own ammo.