New S&W 686P Binding

Status
Not open for further replies.

Torgy

Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
38
I purchased a new Smith and Wesson 686 Plus (4-inch barrel) a few weeks ago. The action is like butter. The trigger is perfect in SA or DA. When dry firing in either mode, it's absolutely perfect. Sadly, its first range visit was disappointing.

The first cylinder of 7 rounds was perfect and I achieved a standing three-inch group. It functioned flawlessly. The same can be said for the subsequent three cylinders of firing. However, for the remaining cylinders that evening, the cylinder, trigger, and hammer would seize or bind in the process of the cylinder attempting to lock in the sixth or seventh round. I was then forced to jimmy the hammer while applying light pressure on the trigger to unseize the trigger from its seized or locked back position.

When I returned home, I thoroughly cleaned the gun, even using a lead/carbon removing impregnated rag (Midway) to clean the cylinder spotless. The cylinder, forcing cone, etc was spotless. I did notice some unburned powder flakes and fouling under the extractor star. I removed it and cleaned it. I thought I discovered the culprit. I also learned after that visit about the importance of ejecting spent cases while holding the barrel straight up and down to limit fouling dropping behind the star. I was hoping I'd have a better experience the second time out.
Ô
Sadly, the same binding or seizing happened during a second range visit with the freshly cleaned gun. Like the first visit, the first four cylinders of ammo fired flawlessly. After that, the cylinder would bind on the sixth or seventh round.

I used the same ammo for both visits: Sellier and Bellot FMJ 158 gr. It was dirty. But should that matter to the point of causing consistent malfunctions? If so, is my gun speced too tight? Specifically, is the bore-cylinder gap too tight? I don't have a gauge but I can say the gap is hair line consistent for every chamber of the cylinder. When held up to a light, I see it, but it's small. Also, if there is any end shake, it's barely noticeable.

I received an order of different ammo, PMC Bronze, which I'll try next weekend.

Any thoughts? Again, the gun shoots like a dream and functions flawlessly out of the gate, but then begins to seize when it gets super hot and/or dirty after four cylinders on the sixth or seventh round of the cylinder. I realize the importance of reliability. However, the first few cylinders are reliable, and the accuracy is spot on. Do I send the gun to S&W to have them inspect it and likely grind the forcing cone down a couple hundredths of an inch and/or ream the yoke face so as to add end shake? Maybe I'd be messing with a good thing.

I'd appreciate any feedback or suggestions.
 
Go to an auto parts store and buy an auto valve lash feeler gage set for $10 or $15 bucks.

Then measure the B/C gap when cold with the cylinder pushed forward as hard as you can.

It should at least be .005" to .006", no less.

Then measure it again with the gun hot & binding, and see if you have any B/C gap left to measure.

If you don't?

Call S&W for a call tag to send it back to the mothership for TLC.

rc
 
Crap. Honestly that hairline gap sort of just disappears when I push the cylinder forward. Ugh... Shouldn't this be something they QC before it leaves the factory!?!? Ugh...
 
Yes.

And it was years ago when they paid a QC inspector to check each one before it left the factory.

Now?

Apparently it is cheaper to pay for the warranty shipping and final fitting after they sell them for the small number that get shot enough to show problems when hot.

Probably a large percentage of new revolvers go home, get loaded, and go in a sock drawer in the bedroom.

Those of us who actually shoot enough to get a revolver hot & bind up is probably a pretty small segment of gun buyers!!

rc
 
Last edited:
So you'd send it back even if it's reliable cold and more accurate as is? (Without the ream job) Would I be a fool to hang on to it and hope natural frame expansion and end shake through wear fixes it?
 
Yes.

Wear and more end shake will only make it worse because the cylinder will be rubbing all the time when foreward, even when cold.

'Natural frame expansion'???

You want to hope there is none of that going on, ever.

PS: There is no 'ream job' involved.
They need to shorten the barrel shank and recut the forcing cone to get proper B/C gap.

(When cold, or hot.)

rc
 
I looked up the caliper or thickness of standard 20-pound bond typing paper. Apparently it ranges from .0038 to .0045". I then cut out a strip the same width as the forcing cone. I was able to feed the strip through the gap. It was touching both sides -- the cone and cylinder. But it fed through. I was able to accomplish this when pushing the cylinder forward as well. Apparently I wasn't using a bright enough light earlier when I said the gap disappeared when the cylinder was pushed forward. Currently I have very little or no end shake. I'm going to give it another chance at the range using the PMC ammo. If it happens again, I'll send it to the "Mother Ship."
 
O.K.

Take the Paper strip to the range and see if it still fits when the gun gets hot.

But .003" to .0045 is too tight on a cold gun anyway.

ET needs to go home! :D

rc
 
Just sent mine back. Had it for probably 10 years. Must not of shot it much. The smallest feeler gauge I had was .002 and it would not fit.
Have it back now, shoots great
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top