taurus 651; cylinder binding on forcing cone; factory return?

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kmrcstintn

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taurus 851; cylinder binding on forcing cone; factory return?

I recently bought a NIB Taurus 851 (all steel 5 shot .357 mag snubby w/ shrouded hammer; it worked great for the first few hundred rounds; during the last 2 shooting sessions, the cylinder will bind and lock up the revolver; I thoroughly cleaned the innerds, confirmed that the hammer wasn't rubbing against the sides of the shroud, thoroughly cleaned the cylinder face and forcing cone;

well...it happened again with more frequency; I have been able to free it up by cocking the hammer & spinning the cylinder with the other hand; I took a look and it seems that the cylinder occasionally rubs against the the top edge of the forcing cone;

can anyone explain what causes this & what can I expect Taurus to do if I return the gun under warranty?!?
 
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I'm not sure, but if it is like a S&W, check the ejector rod as it might be working loose. This is a fairly common problem on Smith's and since a Taurus is almost a direct copy may be your problem.
 
Ejector Rod unscrewing itself

Indeed. This was happening to my 441 until I figured out that it was working loose and binding. Have a close look at this before you send it back. I have a hard time figuring another reason it's shooting tighter than looser after a little break in. Be mindful that Taurus is not the S&W copy that it resembles and if I recall correctly, there's at least one left handed thread in there somewhere....:scrutiny:
 
I already called Taurus & got a return authorization & they are covering the shipping costs; I decided to return it through the dealer where I bought it so that it doesn't interfere with my work schedule having to wait for FEDEX to pick up & drop off at the house; hopefully with the detailed description that I provided Taurus will fix the cylinder alignment and/or shave a wee bit off the edge of the forcing cone so the problem won't happen again; we'll see...this is my make or break test for owning Taurus products in the future
 
Excessive barrel cylinder gap? Not likely in a new Taurus right off the production line. The pilot cutter not cutting the yoke barrel clean and even in a new revolver - not likely. Centerline out of alignment (even in a new revolver)? Yes, most likely the cause of cylinder cramp, runout of the ejector and alignment issues which cause cramp along with problems cycling - most likely. Did you check for "sing" (hand engagement). Well, if you are trained to properly repair these revolvers - your answer would be yes. I would most definately check alignment of your cylinders yoke - standard protocol. Headspace, barrel cylinder gap - well yes, we also look at that. But checking engagement of the hand to the ratchets - alignment is very important and that's especially true of new revolvers. TOGGLELOCK
 
I'm not sure, but if it is like a S&W, check the ejector rod as it might be working loose.

The lock up isn't at the front of the ejector rod, but to a detent on top of the yoke. On mine there's a fair bit that the ejector rod could loosen before it interfered with anything.
 
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