New to crossbow hunting - Questions

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Arkansas Paul

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Didn't know whether to post this in hunting or non-firearms weapons, so move it if it needs it please.

I'm going to be giving crossbow hunting a serious go this year for the first time. I'm a total rookie when it comes to archery hunting, so maybe ya'll can clear up a couple things.

Are broadheads any different for crossbows than for your ordinary compound or recurve bow? I've heard that I need to use 125 grain broadheads to stabalize the shorter bolts. Is this true?

Also, there are so many options when it comes to buying bolts. Are there really that many differences? I know the pros and cons of aluminum vs carbon, but how much difference can there be between two carbon bolts of the same length and weight? The three bolts that came with my Horton 150 package shoot plenty accurate, and I'm sure they're not the expensive ones. I don't mind spending the extra cash if it's worth it, but don't want to do it if I don't need to.

Thanks. Feel free to offer any additional advice because I'm just starting out.
 
Come on, there must be some crossbow hunters here. I've got the same question of 3 forums and can't get a response.

Maybe I'm the only one that's already getting excited about it at the beginning of July. :)
 
I've taken exactly one deer with a crossbow and that was a couple of years ago so I wouldn't call myself an expert but I'll tell you what I know for what it's worth.

Crossbow projectiles are called bolts and are shorter than the arrows used in compound bows. My research in choosing the right ones was going to a sporting goods shop and asking what I needed. At least for me, the field tip arrows and broadheads hit at the same place at any reasonable hunting distance which made target practice fairly easy. I was also very impressed with how accurate the crossbow was.

My deer was taken in my front yard with a neck shot whilst it was eating leaves from one of my fruit trees. With a rifle, it would have been a bang flop. I know bow hunters generally wait 30 to 45 minutes before tracking to be sure the deer is dead but I didn't want to let it lay there that long. As I approached it, it ran off through my yard to the corn field whereupon I caught up with it, dragged it out by the hind legs and dispatched it with my knife.
 
Buy a moderately priced set of aluminum bolts. Carbon shafts when cracked can come apart when launched, and the cracks can be tough to spot, and they cost more. Determine using field points of various weights which weight flies the best for you, at your intended max range and closer. THEN look at buying broadheads that match that weight. Then go out and test fire a bolt with that broadhead, for the bolts will behave a bit differently than with the field tip, and each broadhead design will be different too. The best way is to find a few folks who are bow hunters, and see if you can borrow a broadhead of the correct weight for testing. Testing several types, 2 blade, three, four, solid blades or not, will give you a better idea of what you need.

LD
 
Thanks guys. That's a good idea testing with the field tips first to determine what weight shoots best. That shows what a rookie I am.
 
AP, let me suggest you pop into one of the crossbow forums such as Excalibur, there are several used there that can help with questions, from what I have learned it seems most have moved onto the expendables for broad head such as the slick tricks, I am going to try the Rage type this year,I prefer to use carbon shafts

most in my area have moved to the compound type of crossbow, I prefer the older style and shoot the Excalibur, I do use a cocking aid do to back problems

Remember practice is the key, you can not get off a second shot as quick as a compound bow,
 
marylandbuck2.jpg

doe10-29-2010.jpg

buck9-15-10a.jpg

PaulMarylandbuck.jpg

I've been successfull with my crossbow since 1998. At the time, an unhealed ellbow fracture qualified me for crossbow hunting.

My suggestions for quick one shot kills out to approx 40 yards or so:

- broadhead: NEF Thunderhead featuring 3 blades
-- mechanical broadheads are faddish marketing gimmicks and must be ignored

- bolt: Easton XX75 (2219) ALUMINUM
-- carbon shafts BREAK and must be avoided

Good hunting to you!

TR
 
Thanks for the advice T.R. Nice pics.
I think I will go with the aluminum bolts. I've heard that when carbon shafts fail, they don't give you any warning and can be dangerous.
 
Do you think it is ethical for you to hunt with a crossbow if you do not have vast experience with it?

This quite possibly the most idiotic statement I have ever seen on a "hunting" message board.:rolleyes:

I bought a crossbow last September and killed 4 deer with it by the second week of October. Crossbows are NOT rocket science.:scrutiny:
deer5.jpg
 
Do you think it is ethical for you to hunt with a crossbow if you do not have vast experience with it?

This quite possibly the most idiotic statement I have ever seen on a "hunting" message board.


I would usually agree with you on this amigo, but this has to do with a private inside joke between the two of us.

Nice buck by the way. Thanks for the words of incouragement.
 
I have seen a couple of negative post about carbon bolts, and that is all I have ever used and never had any problems. Mine have been shot into a target several hundred times in practice, and I killed three of my 4 deer with the same bolt. I would have used it on all 4, but the last one I killed fell on it and broke the tip.

I highly recommend Excaliber Firebolts and Bolt Cutter broadheads. thumbsup2.jpg
 
Grumulkin........why would you shoot a deer in the neck with a bow? I mean I'm all for neck shots with a rifle but shooting them with a bow in the neck is just plain stupid. IMO cross bows are for people who cant draw a regular bow at a decent poundage to kill a deer.
 
Arkansas Paul, a hearty welcome from N Central Arkansas. I have a Horton crossbow, that is probably 20 years old. Have taken my share of deer with it,with both carbon and aluminum bolts. Don't see much difference between the two.
I have back problems, and in turn rigged up my own cocking method, with a rope, a couple small pulleys, and a couple small chain links. Works great, and I don't have to spend the big $$ to cock it. Also added a Red Dot to simplify the aim. I prefer it much better than using the moveable sights.
 
Get a rangefinder. My Horton is flat until 30 yds then drops drastically after that. Really watch your follow through with the trigger. Slightest movement when bolt is leaving throws it off.
 
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