New (to me) 870 has a dent in vent rib worth trying to fix?

[kd7nqb]

So I got a good deal in an 870 Express Magnum today. Only problem is that it has a dent in the vent rib. I don't really see the dent when I look at the bead on the front but would like to fix it at least mostly for cosmetic reasons.

http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=479135&highlight=vent+rib+dent

I found the above thread that mentioned a pretty good idea of using a few pieces of steel and a wood block. I was wondering if anybody has used this method or another method (such as a wide blade screw driver) to repair a dented vent rib.

Picture is below

 

[jeepmor]

Some shim stock might just do the trick to bring it back in slowly under good control. I think I'd clamp the adjoing sides to the barrel with padded clamps

I was thinking of a small bearing puller with a piece of flat barstock or wood on the rib to pull it up. Claws probably couldn't get under rib though.

I've seen that done on shotguns where guys are doing a lot skeet shooting. Shooter claimed it tossed the load up into the bead better.

 

[chas08]

Personally, on an 870 Express (which I do own) I'd leave it alone and not risk popping the rib loose from it's soldered joints. If you can't see it when you're shooting, then it's not a problem. Especially on a $250 gun.

 

[RandKL]

I was wondering if anybody has used this method

That's been the standard method for straightening ribs since long before I learned it back in 1980. It puts no strain on the brazed rib pillars, it won't pull them loose from the barrel, and it doesn't risk scratching or denting the barrel as prying the bend out with a screwdriver does.

Bent ribs, just like all bent metal items, are the strongest at the very center of the bent area, not the weakest as most amateurs think. When you bend the metal, it becomes very hard and strong right in the middle of the bend. That's why if you ever bent a knife blade tip and tried to bend it back with pliers, you end up with a second bend right next to the first and an S-shaped knife tip. Trying to pry a bend out is the same thing. It tends to bend the areas right next to the original bend and you end up with a crap repair. You have to isolate the damaged area so your repair doesn't do more damage.

My original rib tool, purchased for all of I think $4 in 1981, was those two four inch lengths of carbon bar stock and a block of maple. You furnished your own clamps. The one bar had two pips on it that held it centered under the rib without slipping. To fix deep bends or shallow ribs where the 1/8" bars wouldn't fit, I eventually cut two pieces of 1/16" carbon knife blade stock and used those for fifteen years.

rich

 

[oneounceload]

I have repaired a dent I got on a rib from a fall. Clamp both sides with the rubber squeeze clamps on either side and use a wood wedge and S L O W L Y push the wedge in from one side a little, and then the other. Repeat as necessary to raise it. I never got mine perfectly smooth because I didn't want to risk it popping off, but I got it back to 95% or so.

Slow and easy is important

 

[Milkmaster]

A slightly pitched wooden wedge works as well as anything. I bought a pack of those cedar wedges like you would use to install a door frame. Got them at Home Depot. The angle is not too steep and the wood didn't damage the blued barrel. Put it right in the center and be gentle. I suggest you use a rawhide or plastic dead blow hammer to tap the wedge or just work it with your hand. Don't use a metal hammmer that might slip and put a dink on your barrel etc.

 

[MrCleanOK]

http://www.shootingtimes.com/gunsmithing/0306/

 

[Milkmaster]

http://www.shootingtimes.com/gunsmithing/0306/

Now that looks like a cool tool to own and with no worry about popping your rib off the barrel!!!

 

[inherentical]

Pick up a Murray's Vent Rib tool from Brownells.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=8754/Product/VENT_RIB_TOOL