New (to me) Daewoo DP51

[Walt Sherrill]

You can download a pretty good user's guide from Lionheart, and the guns are so similar that it ought not be a problem. (The only problem is that the digital version is quite small, and I've not figured out how to make the various pieces (its a bunch of "printed" pages on two sides of a large sheet. Happily, I have the full-size copy that came with the gun.) Here's a link to that manual: https://www.lionheartindustries.com/product-category/parts/manuals/

Getting it to print out properly was above my paygrade, even though I'm usually pretty adept with manipulating computer images. It may be better on the screen than printed.

I found other articles about the DP-51 and LH9, but this seems to be the best: http://apexgunsmithing.com/tag/lh9/

 

[lsudave]

I do like that Apex site, pretty straight-forward. The only thing I'm wondering about, is whether there is a certain way the trigger bar fits into the hammer assembly. My thought is that maybe I just have things not quite right, maybe the hammer has to be in just such a position, etc. But in fiddling and moving things (hammer, trigger, etc), I just can't find a really tight fit, or some type of opening that I need to align.

 

[lsudave]

Just found a guy on ebay that has parts for this gun, so I ordered springs; the hammer spring, the trigger bar spring, and another recoil spring.

These came in today, and I assume all were needed. The recoil spring was maybe 2 cm longer, I assume it will take a set, but obviously that was in some need. The little trigger bar spring does seem to hold the trigger bar in tighter. The hammer spring does seem a bit heavier, and was a little longer.

Sadly, this doesn't seem to have addressed my issue as of now. I get a pretty light strike occasionally on DA with the pencil; no movement most of the time. The pencil will almost hit the ceiling on SA. So, as of now, it's just a SA, with the option to use as DA+ (but no second strikes).

 

[lsudave]

Ok, I need the advice and help of a more experienced person with this pistol, hopefully there's someone on the board who can aid me.

I've seemingly solved the light strikes:
there was too much oil apparently- I hosed the internals (hammer, firing pin block, etc) out with brake cleaner, and now the DA works. I didn't want to leave the gun completely devoid of lubricant, so placed a drop back in that area. Again, no DA. Hosed it out again. Works again.
But now the trigger is stiff and heavy, and everything creaks. Seems like even a single drop is enough to foul things and give light strikes, but it just feels like things are scraping otherwise. I used Lubriplate (compressor oil), which gooed it up.
So, what do I need to oil to get rid of the creaks, without creating another failure? I DON'T want to have to break this gun down to the point of going into the internals, but I also would like it not to feel like an old rusty bicycle whenever I pull the trigger.

Any suggestions?

 

[paulsj]

I would pick that over MAG-98 or CZ-99 but not over third generation S&W of which last produced with added rail were the best (tacticals).

 

[lsudave]

I do find the DA trigger reach on the P226 a little long for me, though I have one- I prefer my 3 old single stack SIGs, 2x220s and a P225. Lots of folks don't like the long reset of the vintage SIG triggers, but I don't really notice it when I'm shooting them. No plans for a SRT or DAK trigger here. The high bore axis IS noticeable, especially with the .45 P220, and probably does make follow up shots a millisecond slower, but who cares. Love my SIGs!

As for the S&W autos, I didn't like them for the longest time because the notchy, multistage triggers turned me off the first time I shot one, but over the years I have come to appreciate them. I feel very fortunate to have found nice examples of all three generations (39,645,6904) before they really start to explode in value....

You may simply be showing the spring in question out of position to identify the part, but the spring shown in your photo above, resting on top of the trigger bar is supposed to be inserted into the groove on the bottom of the trigger bar. If you think that spring is weak, Numrich DOES (sometimes) have a replacement spring but they are currently out of stock. https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/728330

But, IF that is the position in which you found the spring when you removed the grips, that might explain some of the behavior you describe.

Hi again, I've quoted a couple of you guys to get your notice and get some advice.

I think I know the problem I'm having, now. I have replaced all the springs, that isn't the issue. The problem, as stated, is light/no strike in DA, which is beginning to go to SA now. It is "fixed" when the gun is hosed out with brake cleaner, removing all lubricant, temporarily... this suggests that the increased friction is letting something grab ahold of what it needs to.

So I took this apart again ,and it looks like the trigger bar is chewed up. The little triangular notch that fits into the hammer assembly, that is what connects when you pull the trigger and work the hammer- it's rounded off instead of a hard edge.
Looking at the following picture


Notice the trigger bar, note the bottom right section, there is a little wedge-shaped part that protrudes up (kind of hard to see in the picture)?
**this is not my gun, this is from Apex site. My trigger bar shows a LOT more wear than this one does**

That is where I have some extreme wear, to the point that parts are rounded and irregular. Would guesstimate almost half a mm if not more.

I think that HAS to be the issue.
EVERY diagnostic approach I have used has drawn me to this part of the function; I replaced the trigger bar spring because if I manually pushed the trigger bar up more firmly with the grip off, it would work. That really wasn't the issue, the springs were about the same. My firing pin and channel were clean, my firing pin block lever moves freely and doesn't seem to have any wear.

Something is not moving the firing pin block lever up in DA most of the time; the hammer pushes the wedge on the trigger bar, which goes into the firing pin block lever. I strongly suspect the worn edge on the Trigger Bar is giving me little purchase or bite during the trigger pull; with zero lube there's more friction and this short-term enables the gun to work (but accelerates the breakdown).

I can get a new trigger bar for $20 off ebay, will arrive in a couple days, I think this SHOULD fix things.

Does this sound right to everybody?

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

Hi again, I've quoted a couple of you guys to get your notice and get some advice.

I think I know the problem I'm having, now. I have replaced all the springs, that isn't the issue. The problem, as stated, is light/no strike in DA, which is beginning to go to SA now. It is "fixed" when the gun is hosed out with brake cleaner, removing all lubricant, temporarily... this suggests that the increased friction is letting something grab ahold of what it needs to.

So I took this apart again ,and it looks like the trigger bar is chewed up. The little triangular notch that fits into the hammer assembly, that is what connects when you pull the trigger and work the hammer- it's rounded off instead of a hard edge.
Looking at the following picture
View attachment 786445

Notice the trigger bar, note the bottom right section, there is a little wedge-shaped part that protrudes up (kind of hard to see in the picture)?
**this is not my gun, this is from Apex site. My trigger bar shows a LOT more wear than this one does**

That is where I have some extreme wear, to the point that parts are rounded and irregular. Would guesstimate almost half a mm if not more.

I think that HAS to be the issue.
EVERY diagnostic approach I have used has drawn me to this part of the function; I replaced the trigger bar spring because if I manually pushed the trigger bar up more firmly with the grip off, it would work. That really wasn't the issue, the springs were about the same. My firing pin and channel were clean, my firing pin block lever moves freely and doesn't seem to have any wear.

Something is not moving the firing pin block lever up in DA most of the time; the hammer pushes the wedge on the trigger bar, which goes into the firing pin block lever. I strongly suspect the worn edge on the Trigger Bar is giving me little purchase or bite during the trigger pull; with zero lube there's more friction and this short-term enables the gun to work (but accelerates the breakdown).

I can get a new trigger bar for $20 off ebay, will arrive in a couple days, I think this SHOULD fix things.

Does this sound right to everybody?

Sounds logical. For $20 I say go for it!

 

[lsudave]

Sounds logical. For $20 I say go for it!

Well, I've ordered the trigger bar (and another pin for the safety, that got lost during disassembly ).

The parts are described as new, factory stock. Once I do that, I will have replaced the trigger bar, recoil spring, hammer spring, and trigger bar spring. The guy on ebay sells the parts cheaply, and the springs did seem to be new(er). If I can get the gun up and running again, I think I will be pleased.
I did add a couple new magazines, and I do like the feel of the gun in my hand. So I want this to work out. I've kind of enjoyed tinkering around, I do want positive results though.

Judging by eyeball, the hammer, sear, and firing pin block lever look in decent shape.

I would pick that over MAG-98 or CZ-99

Just to be clear, my CZ 99 has run flawlessly , and seems rugged as hell. Don't have a MAG-98 to compare it to.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

Well, I've ordered the trigger bar (and another pin for the safety, that got lost during disassembly ).

The parts are described as new, factory stock. Once I do that, I will have replaced the trigger bar, recoil spring, hammer spring, and trigger bar spring. The guy on ebay sells the parts cheaply, and the springs did seem to be new(er). If I can get the gun up and running again, I think I will be pleased.
I did add a couple new magazines, and I do like the feel of the gun in my hand. So I want this to work out. I've kind of enjoyed tinkering around, I do want positive results though.

Judging by eyeball, the hammer, sear, and firing pin block lever look in decent shape.

Just to be clear, my CZ 99 has run flawlessly , and seems rugged as hell. Don't have a MAG-98 to compare it to.

It was an interesting pistol- like the lovechild of a S&W 59 and Beretta 92.....and its always satisfying getting a broken gun up and running again (and infuriating when you can't, lol).

Ooooooo...gives me idea for new thread.

 

[FROGO207]

Thanks for posting as you go about repairing it. I always like finding out about something I do not own and how it was resolved.

 

[lsudave]

Trigger bar arrived today. This appears to have been the issue!

Not sure exactly how this occurred, but there's definitely a small bite out of the old bar, and that was the problem.

 

[Monac]

Thanks for the picture, Isudave. I'm sure our more gunsmith-oriented members will find them useful.

 

[lsudave]

Update, sorry, no pics.

I took a couple boxes of Magtech 115 fmj and the DP51 to the range for a function check after replacing the trigger bar. I'll tell you what, that Daewoo is a nice pistol, I can see why some compare it to a Sig.

My range now has some plastic 'coke' bottles you can use, instead of paper targets. They hang on a swinging rope. I'm not the world' greatest pistol marksman, but at 10 yards shooting casually from a standing position, I had no problem at all. The sights are easy to pick up, the trigger is very smooth, and it was just a matter of "see it hit it". Best of all, no failures or problems of any sort.

I'm about to go back in awhile, as I'm also picking up a Mauser 1914 in .32 that was on delay. Going to bring some S&B this time.

 

[lsudave]

Well, that was fun! I said 10 yds, pushed it out to 15 yds today- no problems at all.

This is the target as it appears (sorry for crappy cellphone pics).

Sights are definitely on; if I can see neon yellow around the front sight it's a hit.

Daewoo with S&B (real blurry, sorry)


The latest member of my flock, the Mauser 1914

A bit shockingly, the little Mauser in .32 was also nailing the bottle at 10 yds. I tend to have trouble with my .32's regarding accuracy on paper... I wonder if having a target to shoot at, instead of paper, makes it a whole lot easier.