'new to me' Garand, Q's

[Andras]

Howdy, I just picked up a very nice M1 at the local gunshop.

http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/717/1769/49479.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/717/1769/49480.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/717/1769/49481.jpg

It's a SA, reciever 1.009M (Dec 1942); barrel SA 8/66; Bolt SA D28287-19.

I've read about the commercial ammo problem, I just ordered an adjustable gas plug.

How much lee-way is there in using commercial ammo? Will the op-rod fail the first time if the adj gas plug is too tight?

Right now I have some 145g FMJ thats listed mv is 2,850fps, very close to the M2 specs I've read (150@2800).

I've also read about the clip latch spring failing to hold the clip in for all 8 rounds. How hard is that to replace, if I have to? The latch spring seems to be pretty strong, just pushing on it.

I don't have any en-blocs on hand right now, I have them on order.

The sling in the pics broke shortly after I was messing with it to see how to adjust it (it was old and dry) so I have a new one on order also.

I'm sure I'll have more questions soon

Thanks,
Andy

 

[carlrodd]

i use 150grain remington UMC, and have never had any problems. i have however been having the problem you mentioned with my magazine ejecting prematurely....hehehe. it really has though. it's currently being examined. i'll post any insight into the fix when i get it. i know garand parts are readily available.

 

[kentucky_smith]

I would order some Greek from the CMP, course, I've got approx 800 rds of it in my closet.


They've now got spam cans for $45. And it's already loaded in en blocs.


http://estore.odcmp.com/store/catal...pmax=&note1=&note2=&note3=&note4=&note5=&max=

 

[oneshooter]

These may be of some intrest.


http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/



http://www.garandflash.com/


Oneshooter
Livin in Texas

 

[Khornet]

Get the books

Thompson's, Scott Duff's, Canfield's. All the info you'll ever need.Clip latch replacement is easy. Also, if I recall, a faulty or worn bullet guide can also give you 'premature ejection' problems.

 

[Andras]

Thanks for the advice, the new sling and en-blocs came in Saturday so I was able to cycle a clip through the action. It did not attempt to prematurely eject the clip, but I was only doing it by hand.

 

[Dienekes]

Additional suggestions: "Hatcher's Book of the Garand" is excellent for background, trouble shooting, maintenance, and repair. Not overly technical but extremely helpful as the author 'was there". The CSP website at www.jouster.com is probably the best single repository of M1 info. Some very, very smart people hang out there. I first encountered the M1 in 1961 and I learn new stuff all the time.

The Garand runs best with M2 ball 152 grain ammo (47 grains 4895) or 168 grain match bullets with the same charge. The M2 stuff is available from the CMP and bullets surplus from Wideners, Jeff Bartlett, et al.

Have never messed with adjustable gas plugs. Don't see the need if you run the proper ammo. BTW, get a gas cylinder wrench, chamber cleaning tool and/or M10 cleaning rod assy--and put a little anti-seize compound on those fine gas plug threads. Too tight is bad and too loose is, well, too loose. When you establish the proper torque make a witness mark so you know when to stop and can tell if it is loosening by a glance.

Good idea to replace all springs, especially the op rod spring. If it measures less than 19 inches long, it's somewhat tired. Can lead to short recoil and failure to feed. The clip latch spring is normally not a problem but if it releases prematurely a new HD one from Fulton takes care of that.

The entire en bloc feeding system can take some de-glitching sometimes--after all, these rifles are between fifty and seventy years old now. Often if you have bolt release problems it is at least partially traceable to toe height on the nose of the "bullet guide". As I recall it should be .181 high; later ones with the notched side usually worked better.

Don't oil the sear or hammer hooks as they don't need it and the rifle may "double" (fire a couple of rounds full auto). You may experience it eventually anyway. The cure is to replace the hammer and trigger/sear assembly. Good excuse to send the trigger group off to Fulton Armory for a trigger job at the same time.

And yes, you may well have to "bump" the op rod handle after the clip seats to load. It's very common and always was.

Use grease for lube. Lubriplate 130-A or Plastilube was issue; but any decent chassis grease works fine. I use Militec grease.

The M1 definitely responds well to TLC and is mildly addictive. Good luck. I think you are about to have some fun.

 

[Jaim03]

Andras,

Congratulations! I finally fired my "new" Garand yesterday. Put only 10 rounds thru it due to time constraints. I LOVE it! Amazing accuracy.

Can't wait to get it outside to the range.

I think you'll like it!

Dienekes, as a Garand Rookie "first rifle" (as in I have my first.... more may be necessary) I appreciate all that you posted!

 

[heypete]

If you can, look for some of the PS-headstamped Korean M2 surplus ammo. It usually comes in cardboard boxes in .50 cal ammo cans. The lot numbers are always PS-#### (not sure how many numbers there are, but at least three, I believe...always preceeded by PS).

Fantastic stuff. Consistent, reliable, and clean. Boxer primed and ready for reloading. Non-corrosive, too.

The KA-stamped Korean stuff is a bit different...the ammo cans seem to have been stored in a variety of conditions (my KA ammo can seems a bit "rougher" than others), and the cardboard boxes of ammo smell odd. Just the cardboard box itself, not the ammo. It's corrosively primed, but if you clean it promptly that day, it shouldn't be a problem (and isn't a problem for my M1). It's not nearly as shiny as the PS stuff, but functions just fine in my M1. I believe it's also boxer primed and reloadable.

FFL around here is selling the PS stuff for about $100/400rds, which isn't terrible. I can't afford to save that much money by buying in bulk, so I occasionally stock up on a new can every few months.