New to reloading! Advices would be greatly appreicated.

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seems like plated bullets are the way to go. going to order whatever bullseye powder i can find now so i can test out the spare bullets when i get them.

thanks again
 
Thank you for your service.

I've had the same press for 6+ yrs now. For starting out with 1 brass and 1 die only. Till you learn the process. Then start populating the dies to confirm all are set correctly before going full AP. I do recommend using a separate TC die in station 5. Makes setting up the dies easier. I also recommend the PTX which expands the case the same time it dumps powder. This is not requires but it frees up a station for the separate crimp die.

I prefer the 9mm to be RN 124gr. As for the 45acp I like the LSWC but the Hi-tech coating is a very good option. Some guns have problem feeding LSWC and some don't. But the magazine has more to play with feeding. I would go use the softer 12BN bullets for the 45acp. It runs at a lower pressure than the nine. I get NO leading at all shooting the MBC 185gr LSWC (BE#2). As for powders, the Ball powders will give you the most accurate metering out of the Hornady Dispenser. Unique (and other Large flake powders) does a terrible job at metering accurately and do not recommend it for the LNL-AP progressive. For the 45acp my choice is WST, WSF, 231 . All of these powders work just fine with the 9mm, with WSF being my first choice, 231 then WSF for 9mm. I ran across WST and HP38(231) at the last gun show (1 week ago). So pistol powders are showing up slowly now.

Plated fall into a different class than lead or std Jacketed. Now some of the TP ones are very close to the std jacketed.

Plain lead bullets for 45acp will serve you just fine, but for starting out I would go with the Hi-Tech coating. These are sized like lead, so if you decide to switch to the non-coated you will not have to readjust the dies. I have not shot lead in the 9mm, but many report leading problems. You should slug your barrels to know what size bullet to order.
 
I have largely moved away from lead, primarily because it can leave waxy lube buildup in the dies (particularly the lube Hornady uses on its lead wadcutters). Coated bullets eliminate leading and the coating is the lube, and of course plated need no lube. You can run coated or plated as hot as your .45 will go with no problems, or load them light for target shooting. Lead is fine in 9mm for most loads if you want to go that route, but if you load full power 9mm you will probably want coated or plated, if not a jacketed self-defense load. For me, the lower price and absence of lube makes the coated a good deal. And you can get them in different colors!
 
you're welcome Blue68f100!

I'll stick with the seat and crimp die for now as i already bought a powder cop die so that will take up the 5th spot. I will definitely refer back to the separate crimp die and the expand and powder drop die when i progress.

@TfflHndn right on! that is the route im heading towards
 
I've settled on Win 231 for both 9mm & 45ACP. Interestingly, 4.6gr seems to work out nicely under 115gr for 9's & 230gr for 45's (Berry's plated RN in both instances). Before 231 I used HS-6, but found that charge weights were higher, differed between calibers, and burned dirtier.

As stated by others, always start at the low end of published data and work up.
 
the hornady 9th edition book is coming this weekend!
I like the the Hornady also. Good section on headspace starting on pg 15, which helped my confusion on the subject.




As stated by others, always start at the low end of published data and work up.

+1 That cant be reinforced enough.
 
A local gun store has blue dot and green dot powder. will those work or are they for shotguns only?
 
Blue dot is a good powder for 10mm but I don't know about .45s or 9mm, green dot can be used for .45s. There is a recipe for 230 grn lead round nose on the alliant website. There are some for blue dot and 9mm too. Where locally are you finding powder? I usually go up to Simmons in Bessemer to get most of what I need. It's a long drive but I have relatives up that way. I'm not far from Rucker myself. Southern Outdoor sports in Dothan has some but from what I hear they're all out too.
 
I believe Ive heard Blue Dot isnt ideal for 9mm because of the space it takes up. I would like someone to verify that though.
 
tbui, manufacturers' websites generally have load data. Go to Alliant's site and see if they have load data available for those powders in 9mm. I'm not trying to be snarky, but if you're going to be reloading, you need to learn the real sources of load data/information. No time like the present!

Alright, just so you don't think I'm a total prat, here's Alliant's data for 9mm Blue Dot loads: http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/powderlist.aspx?type=1&powderid=10&cartridge=23
 
Potatohead, the OP said in post #1 that he was in the U.S. military attending flight training. He could be lying, but he can also lie in response to your ISIS question. Absent some real reason to doubt him, I'm inclined to say he deserves thanks rather than suspicion. And good advice.

He just appears to be an eager soon-to-be-loader who doesn't have a mentor and who hasn't yet gotten a manual.
 
Potatohead, the OP said in post #1 that he was in the U.S. military attending flight training.

Right on, and I did thank him..

But an ISIS dude might say that ya know, to get everyone's guard down.
I'll edit it though..thx
 
Not that we could really stop it, but I'd hate to see what an ISIS attack inside the US , one that they used their own handloaded ammo, could potentially do to our hobby.
 
i called a bunch of places and only cliffs gun in ozark have blue dot and green dot. i've been searching for powder for the last few hours but no luck. this week i have a lot of free time since i'm getting ready to go to SERE training so i've been doing a lot of research.

@ATLDave im waiting for my hornady book to actually read up on it. Right now im in the mindset of getting some powder so im narrow minded right now but thanks for the link, ill look at it.

and i dont know what was said about me or isis or whatever lol but i'm just a WO1 that just picked up a new hobby. I rather be shooting on the weekend at the POW range then go out and drink. but i like to spend my money wisely. rather spend it on equipment and be able to reuse my brass then spend money on ridiculously expensive ammo
 
yeah I need to have patience but honestly like i've said before. my free time is really only on the weekend and im lucky to be on break right now after finishing basic leadership course so im taking full advantage of it. if I spend a month doing research then thats really only 4 weekends so im just trying to pick everyones brain on this forum, youtube and other search areas. I actually found a retired army officer that started reloading 5 years ago. he's an FFL dealer that I went to and picked up my mp22 from but too bad he's leaving for work soon. I was able to get a lot of information from him.
 
thanks for the data, looks like i can use bluedot. I'll do more research for bullseye and other recommended powder this weekend until i find some. If not then i'll just have to bite and buy blue dot at the local shop for 25 bucks.
 
One other thing that you'll figure out pretty quickly. Fast powders, like Bullseye, are great for low recoil and accurate rounds. However, most of them tend to be very low volume powders. That's both good and bad. The good news is that a pound of powder will make more rounds because the charge weight is smaller.

On the other hand, those small charges do pose some risks, especially for a new loader. If the charge is small, it's not easy to see a double charge. If it's small and your brass isn't sorted/consistent and/or your bullet weight isn't very tight, you cannot meaningfully use total cartridge weight as a QC measure against double-charges or squib/no-charges.

Once you've reloaded for a while and have good habits and a proven track record of never screwing up, then a small volume powder can be great for the reasons I listed above. Until then, you will need to be EXTREMELY careful. You need to be careful regardless of what powder you're using, but with a low-volume powder, you're not going to get any visually-apparent warning that you're building a grenade or a squib.
 
and i dont know what was said about me or isis or whatever lol but i'm just a WO1 that just picked up a new hobby.

I was being paranoid and in a nutshell I said I hope we're not teaching some crazy ISIS member how to handload. It was out of line. Apologies.
 
Green Dot is good for .45 and 9mm. The Green Dot works better in 124 and 147 grain bullet weights for 9mm. I tend to use my Blue Dot on heavier loads, like .357SIG, .357mag and .45colt. It doesn't like me to load it light for plinkers or target shooting. I like Green Dot a lot in .45 auto, for medium power loads. (And I use a LOT of Red Dot for .45 and .38 target loads.) Any of the Dots are good powders to have on hand.
 
@TfflHndn i'll give green dot a try if i can't find any recommended pistol powders. Thanks

@potatohead no worries! I appreicate your advice and concern. I'm really a newbie but motivated to learn!

@grogetr thanks a lot! I appreciate it!


@ATLDave I'll definitely consult with the forum before attempting to load. most likely i'll start with tumbling and deprime and prime before any loading. I'll take my time.
 
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