New to reloading(like a baby duck.) looking for advice .

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one of the things I did when I got back into reloading, after all the changes in the years, was buy the book THE ABCS OF RELOADING, BOTH AN OLDER EDITION AND A NEW EDITION.
Helped a lot. A lot of powders that were in use in the 1970s and 1980s are gone now. I had taken from the 1980s to 2016 off from reloading. Heck a lot of the presses made then are not even made now, and a lot of the companies are gone now.
 
50of4064 said:
"And it’s strictly dumb to suggest this or any other newbie is at increased risk of “blowing themselves up” simply by buying a powered case trimmer or a different priming tool than found in one or another reloading manual. Lazy."

Ronald, if this is why you believe I suggested you read a reloading manual several times, then you misunderstood my meanings. I do not know what you know. So when you said you were very new to reloading, I should have asked "how new" and what gear do you own and what experience do you have...instead of get a manual ×3 read it ...ect. ect.
I own that one, apologies mate.
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It wasn't me who said that .
 
Smaug said:
With the help of this thread, find a manual with good load data for 6.5x55. Buy that manual and read the instructions in the beginning, then get the rest of the gear you'll need. This way, you'll have good load data, and good instructions.

Aside from the components you listed, do you have any of the reloading tools you'll need?
  • Press
  • Dies
  • Case trimmer
  • Reloading trays
  • Powder measure or dippers
  • Powder scale
  • Priming tool
  • Primer pocket tool
Varminterror is kind of getting ahead of you here. Don't listen to him yet unless you want to pull out your hair. ;-)

Last thing: Consider adding at least a general geographic location to your profile, so we can see under your name where you are. Maybe there's someone local, who can help you in person? A lot of members don't do it out of paranoia that someone is going to track them down and steal their guns, but I've found it to be more useful than a risk.
Click to expand...
If someone try to come here and still my guns the only thing they will get is bit and the hot end of my gun.lol
 
Smaug said:
With the help of this thread, find a manual with good load data for 6.5x55. Buy that manual and read the instructions in the beginning, then get the rest of the gear you'll need. This way, you'll have good load data, and good instructions.

Aside from the components you listed, do you have any of the reloading tools you'll need?
  • Press
  • Dies
  • Case trimmer
  • Reloading trays
  • Powder measure or dippers
  • Powder scale
  • Priming tool
  • Primer pocket tool
Varminterror is kind of getting ahead of you here. Don't listen to him yet unless you want to pull out your hair. ;-)

Last thing: Consider adding at least a general geographic location to your profile, so we can see under your name where you are. Maybe there's someone local, who can help you in person? A lot of members don't do it out of paranoia that someone is going to track them down and steal their guns, but I've found it to be more useful than a risk.
Click to expand...
Yes I have equipment
 
I understand it was not you that said what I put in quotes...I will fix that and edit that post...sorry...I did not take offense to what was said, I was worried that you may have taken what was written by someone else and misconstrued my meanings.
 
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RONALD MORPHEW said:
one of the things I did when I got back into reloading, after all the changes in the years, was buy the book THE ABCS OF RELOADING, BOTH AN OLDER EDITION AND A NEW EDITION.
Helped a lot. A lot of powders that were in use in the 1970s and 1980s are gone now. I had taken from the 1980s to 2016 off from reloading. Heck a lot of the presses made then are not even made now, and a lot of the companies are gone now.
Click to expand...
What has changed over the years? I don’t see the magic myself.. the case prep process is pretty simple, dies are still 7/8 threads, presses still have a handle, powder companies list the calibers and recipes on the bottles. I could go on but you get my thought
 
From A guy who has been preloading since the 60s.
All those that say get this book or that book.
Each one of those books are meant to follow their loads, not substituting along with way.

The All-In-One preloading manuals are the best way to go. It has all the data from everywhere, all in one book. I have one for each caliber.

The rest of the equipment, does not matter, the electric ones Ive stayed away from because of failure rate and inaccuracy. All my presses are from he 60s and 70s, because that is what Im used to using.
90% of my stuff is green (RCBS), the rest is specialized per caliber.
When you get serious, LE Wilson sell the best reloading stuff made.
 
50of4064 said:
I understand it was not you that said what I put in quotes...I will fix that and edit that post...sorry...I did not take offense to what was said, I was worried that you may have taken what was written by someone else and misconstrued my meanings.
Click to expand...
No worries
 
Ronald Jones said:
Should I try and use the data for h4831 since they are similar in burn rate
Click to expand...

No.

Burn rate is not the only critical parameter of powder selection. The specific energy and the specific density of these two powders are different - as such data for the same bullet weight in a given cartridge between each of these two powders varies significantly.
 
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Ronald Jones said:
Should I try and use the data for h4831 since they are similar in burn rate
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There are powders that are exactly the same. Win 296 and h110. That data can be used. There are close powders h4895 and imr4895 where you can use start data from either to work up. Unless you know the exact situation substitution of data is a no go. I'm in the midst of comparing accurate #9 and shooters world heavy pistol. They claim to be close but inital indications says shooters world is far more energetic at starting loads.
 
Pulled yhis data from shooters reference for vv 165.

6.5x55se, 130 Barnes tsx. AOL 2.930", min 47.5 gr.@ 2651, max 51.2 gr @ 2854

I realize that the tsx is a monolithic bullet but data should be good as a starting point for your 129 sst bullet.
 
since it is a modern rifle should I deduct 10 % of powder charge ? Because on vv that data is for the military action I belive. This is were I'm having the most trouble
 
Ronald Jones said:
since it is a modern rifle should I deduct 10 % of powder charge ? Because on vv that data is for the military action I belive. This is were I'm having the most trouble
Click to expand...
I'm confused vv data is a range and does not require the application of the "equation". If the load data your using I'd for the weaker action just start in the middle to save components. This would be likened to starting with lever loads in your lever gun not trapdoor in 45-70.
 
@Ronald Jones - I will warn you here against using the load data provided above, which was meant for the 130 TSX.

Monometal bullets like the TSX are typically harder to engrave into the lands and promote greater bore-resistance, as well as being physically larger than lead-core bullets of the same weight, as the copper has lower density than the lead core. Typically, we see load data for mono-metal bullets like this being considerably lower powder charges for their bullet weight, often more closely resembling that of “the next weight up” in bullet weight for a caliber class. So 130 TSX data may more closely resemble load data for a 140-145 ballpark lead core bullet.

In general, load data can be relatively easily transported between bullets of similar weights, however, monometal bullets are one specific exception, for these reasons mentioned above.
 
AJC1 said:
I'm confused vv data is a range and does not require the application of the "equation". If the load data your using I'd for the weaker action just start in the middle to save components. This would be likened to starting with lever loads in your lever gun not trapdoor in 45-70.
Click to expand...
Pulled yhis data from shooters reference for vv 165.

6.5x55se, 130 Barnes tsx. AOL 2.930", min 47.5 gr.@ 2651, max 51.2 gr @ 2854

I realize that the tsx is a monolithic bullet but data should be good as a starting point for your 129 sst bullet.. (this was sent from stillquietvoice)
 
Ronald Jones said:
Pulled yhis data from shooters reference for vv 165.

6.5x55se, 130 Barnes tsx. AOL 2.930", min 47.5 gr.@ 2651, max 51.2 gr @ 2854

I realize that the tsx is a monolithic bullet but data should be good as a starting point for your 129 sst bullet.. (this was sent from stillquietvoice)
Click to expand...
Start at the minimum and work up to your best accuracy load. If you start to have problems with bolt lift or obvious pressure signs, you’re already over maximum pressure; back off to the next most accurate load. That’s the standard, default, time and experience tested method. It’s not the only way to find a good solution but it’s the only one I can recommend.
 
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