IBTL.
The Lee Classic Turret is one of the most recommended presses on the forum. The specific items mentioned are geared towards those with a limited budget. They may not be the cheapest choices, but they are not the most expensive and represent an excellent value. All of the items described should be available from MidwayUSA.com, but they are not the sole vendor and it would be very wise to shop around. FWIW, I purchased my Lee Classic Turret from
www.fmreloading.com.
Stuff you Need for pistol:
-Reloading Manual (Modern Reloading, by Richard Lee)
READ THIS FIRST. Read it before you open all of the other boxes. In fact, you might want to purchase it before you get everything else. The first part of the book deals with the mechanics of reloading. After reading it, if reloading doesn't sound good to you, send your stuff back. This manual also has a vast amount of load data in it. As a beginning reloader, you should follow the load data as gospel. A reloading manual is an important safety item. Speer, Lyman, and Hornady also publish excellent manuals, but I included the Lee manual here since it focuses a lot on Lee equipment and will make things a little easier for a novice.
-A sturdy reloading bench
A heavy work bench is ideal, but a portable "Work Mate" bench can be used if space is tight. If possible, bolt the press to table and bolt the table to the floor.
-Lee Classic Turret Press (4-hole)
The focal point of your reloading setup. This is an auto-indexing press meaning that the turret head will turn with each stroke, bringing a different die in line with the ram. On older single stage presses, you only had one die in the press at once, requiring you to readjust the die every time you placed it into the press. In my hands, I can turn out approximately 175 pistol rounds per hour with the Classic Turret.
-Scale (Frankford Arsenal Micro Electronic or RCBS 505 Beam)
You absolutely, positively NEED to measure the charges thrown by your powder measure, regardless of the brand you choose. Over- and under-loaded cartridges both pose serious safety risks to your gun, your face, your hand, and your life. Reloading is not cooking: eyeballing it is not enough. 1/7000th or 2/7000ths of a pound can be the difference between a safe and unsafe load.
-Calipers (Frankford Arsenal Digital)
Much like your scale, calipers are the next step in the safety equation. The OAL (OverAll Length) or COL (Case Overall Length) is important because it influences pressure (i.e., safety) as well as reliable feeding in your firearm.
-Check weights (RCBS Standard Scale Check Weights)
Your scale is useless if it's not accurate. Do not use a bullet, as these can vary in weight from one to the other.
-Lee Pro Auto Disk Powder Measure
This is how you dispense powder into, or charge, cases. It works in conjunction with a powder-through die, and dispenses powder as the case is raised into the die. The pistol die (included in the Lee 4-die set) also flares the case mouth for bullet seating. The measure uses a series of disks with small holes in it to measure powder.
-Lee 4-die set in caliber of your choice
Includes your sizing/decapping die, powder-through/expanding die, seating die, and factory crimp die. A *very light* coat of CLP or similar product on the exterior surfaces of the die will keep it from rusting.
-Lee Large & Small Safety Prime set
This device allows you to prime your cases on the press. It's cheaper to buy the large and small at the same time than to get them separately. They accommodate large and small primers, both pistol and rifle, standard and magnum.
-Lee Auto Disk Powder Measure Riser
This is necessary if you are using the Safety Prime and the Auto Disk Powder measure. This is nothing more than a tube that raises the height of the Auto Disk so it does not hit the Safety Prime while you operate the press.
-Safety Glasses (shooting glasses work fine)
In the unlikely event you pop a primer while reloading, safety glasses will minimize the chance of getting debris in your eyes.
Highly Recommended
-Tumbler and Media Separator (Frankford Arsenal)
This device will clean your brass. Clean brass can prolong the life of your dies and can feed more reliably in your firearm. Plus, shiny brass looks nice!
-Post-it notes and a pencil
Label your loads! At the very least, put the date, caliber, powder type and charge, bullet type and weight, case headstamp, and OAL. Primer type is also important if you use multiple brands and types. This step is especially important if are making +P loads, hot loads, or using brass from one caliber to form another.
Nice to Have
-Plastic Ammo Boxes
The cardboard and Styrofoam boxes from factory ammo wear out. For a $1 or $2 each, these make a handy addition for separating and storing loaded ammo.
-Miscellaneous jars and containers
You have to store brass and bullets somehow, right?
-Bullet puller (RCBS)
Everyone makes mistakes, especially in the beginning. A bullet puller is an "eraser" and will save you money so you don't have to discard perfectly good powder, cases, primers, and bullets just because you didn't charge or seat correctly.
By now you're thinking, that's great, but what about rifle? Well, here's the additional stuff you'll need/want for rifle.
Additional stuff you need for rifle:
-Lee 3-Die rifle set
Includes the full-length sizer/decapper, seating die, and factory crimp die.
-Lee Rifle charging powder die
This is not caliber specific. It enables you to charge using the auto disk powder measure. This die does not flare the case mouth.
-Lee double disk kit
This doubles the powder-throwing capability of your Auto Disk. You will need this to charge most rifle cases. Depending on powder type, you can throw about 40-50 grains of powder with the largest Auto Disk settings.
-Case lubricant (Imperial Sizing Wax)
You need case lube for sizing any and all bottleneck cases. Failure to use case lube (or not enough of it) will result in cases becoming stuck in your sizing die. I recommend Imperial Sizing Wax due to its low cost and ease of use. It feels like Chap Stick on your fingers and comes off with a simple rag or paper towel. Other options include lube pads and aerosol lubes.
-Lee Zip Trim
This acts like a lathe, spinning the case so you can trim them.
-Lee Case Length Gauge (caliber specific)
Determines the trim-to length of your cases and attaches to a Lee trimmer/cutter. Cases will generally need to be trimmed after a while due to case expansion during firing and sizing. Failing to trim cases can result in failures to chamber.
-Lee Case Trimmer
Attaches to your case length gauge and actually cuts the mouth of the case to length.
-Chamfer/Deburr Tool (RCBS Chamfer and Deburring Tool)
This is used after trimming to chamfer and deburr the case mouth. Can also be used to remove a primer crimp.
***If possible, use a Possum Hollow Kwick Case Trimmer. They only offer a few calibers, but they are highly recommended over the Lee Zip Trim.
Highly Recommended
-Lee Primer Pocket Cleaner
Clean primer pockets enable more consistent and reliable seating of primers.
-Stuck Case Remover (Hornady)
If you get a case stuck in your sizing die, this will help you get it out. It's not much more than a drill bit, tap, and screw set, but can be very useful.
Visit
www.leeprecision.com for videos on how to set up and use the press.
