New to Reloading

[marineman]

Please bare with me. Here is the deal: I want to start reloading. I have researched it fairly well. I want to reload .308, .30-06, .270WSM, and .223. I do not need to make extremely high quality ammo. I only need to load ammo for practice and deer hunting.

With that being said, I want the Lee 50th Anniversary Kit. I found this website that explains the various steps in the reloading process and what equipment will be used: http://www.gunnersden.com/index.htm.rifle-reloading-equipment-guide.html.

All I want to do is reload ammo. I do not need to do anything fancy or produce ultra-accurate rounds. Do I need the Lee Pacesetter dies or is there a less expensive die/set of dies that will work for my purpose. Additionally, do I need the powder trickler or will the equipment included in the kit work? I do not want to buy a bunch of equipment that I don't actually need. On the other hand, I do not want to buy the equipment and then realize that I forgot something and the have to buy something else and wait for it to arrive.

Basically, what I need to know is what is the minimum and least expensive equipment that I can get that will allow me to take a spent casing and reload it into a fireable cartridge? Please be specific since there are so many different types of dies, scales, etc. and I am new to this.

Also, where do you shop for the cheapest bulk bullets/powder? If you have links or other suggestions, please offer them. Thanks.

 

[elkhuntingfool]

I have a Lee press as well - the breech lock - very similar to what you've purchased. The kit you have is pretty much everything you need to reload - get some good Lee dies, powder, primer and bullets and you'll make some great rounds.

AS for bullets - search the net. You can try hi-tech ammo for bullets. Pat's powder for bulk - but you'll pay a hazmat and shipping fee so that deal might not be so great.

Cruise the classified ads for those folks getting out of reloading - that's what I've done and in a short amount of time I've added a good collection of powder.

 

[SASS#23149]

the Lee Challenger pres is pretty light duty...I have one..
IF you can afford an RCBS rock chuker,even a used one,the difference is huge.The mass and strength of the RC make siziing rifle breass almost effortsless,no so with the challengger.my buddy has the RC,and we've put it side by side with my old Challenger.As I say,NO COMPARISON.
for blasting ammo the Lee dies,scale and powder measure will get the job done.
Lots of trimminng involved in riflereloading,so as soon as you can get a 'real' trimmer,a powered one makes it soooo much easier.
powder...buy a a'ball' powder,they measure easier.BLC-2 has been used for years.Varget measures nicely too.Stick powders dont flow thur the measures near as easily,so they don't dump accurately sometimes.
Unless you are going to shoot cast lead bullets,you wont need a roll crimper,so standard rifle dies will suffice.
Hope that helped.

 

[Historian]

+1 on the RCBS rock chucker. They have a starter kit which includes pretty much everything you need except for a case trimmer and dies. I also use their dies and find that they are really excellent for what I want,,,223 plinking ammo. Also, you cannot beat their customer service. I have had a couple of issues over the years with the equipment (my fault) and they have replaced everything I've broken with no questions and at no charge. Welcome to the fun world of reloading. Do it right and you'll have something you can enjoy for years.

Historian

 

[Oldcoyote]

Be sure to also look at the Lee Classic Cast Turret Press. It is about $87.

 

[marineman]

powder...buy a a'ball' powder,they measure easier.BLC-2 has been used for years.Varget measures nicely too.Stick powders dont flow thur the measures near as easily,so they don't dump accurately sometimes.
Unless you are going to shoot cast lead bullets,you wont need a roll crimper,so standard rifle dies will suffice.

Do you have an example of standard rifle dies? The Lee Pacesetter dies that I am looking at cost about $20-22 per caliber. What are standard dies and how much do they cost? A link would be helpful if you could possibly provide one.

Also, as for powder, I was looking at the IMR 3031 powder. Does anyone have any experience with this stuff. Which powder is the most versatile (measures accurately, inexpensive, and works with most loadings)? Thanks.

 

[marineman]

How are the primers removed from spent cases? Will I need to buy another tool to complete that task or can it be completed with the tools in the 50th anniversary set? Thanks.

 

[kansas45]

Your die set will punch out the primer in the de-caping die. For 308, look at Reloader 15 powder. I use BL-(C)2 for the 223 AR stuff & Varget in my 223 bolt rifle. Get yourself a good reloading book, several is better, search different forums & pay attention. You will be a happy reloader in no time!

 

[SASS#23149]

the re-sizing die will punch out the old primers.You must lube the case
1st,or it WILL stick in the die.
A lot of .308 and .223 brass is military brassand has a crimp righ around the primver that usualy requires removal before you can insert a new primer.some folks improvise,some buy a special tool for the job/
A good book to buy is the Lyman's reloading manual..lots of general how-to info and plenty of load data.
'standard rifel dies' are a 2 dies set.One sizes and de-primes,the other seats the bullet once you set the correct depth.
'other' dies include neck-size-only dies,not reccomended for semi autos,or lever guns.Full length sizing is bestg for those for reliabilty in closing the bolt .
You wont need a roll crimp die unless you're gonna shoot cast lead bullets.
please get a manaal and learn all you can,then come back.Yur gonna need it anyway for years to come.

 

[Remo-99]

marineman, the Lee collet dies are worth the extra few bucks per calibre imo. That is if your only loading for your own bolt rifles, as neck sizing is all that is required(and less effort when sizing, to boot).
There are some powders that are universal enough to be used in all the calibres you listed, maybe not giving the opitimum results in each one. But look at the online data of powder distributors like Hodgdon and Alliant for something suitable.
If I might suggest a powder like Varget and/or Benchmark for your needs, as stated.

 

[jacobhh]

A good book to buy is the Lyman's reloading manual..lots of general how-to info and plenty of load data.

IMO the above is very good advice. You need a good data book
and this one is a good one stop source.

A powder trickler is reasonably inexpensive and I personally
wouldn't be without it, but it's not a necessity.

The Lee Pacesetter dies are already about the cheapest you can
buy new and used dies are a crap shoot.

I heartily agree with getting a Rock-Chucker.

I try to buy my bullets & powder from Powder Valley if they have
what I want they're often cheaper. This can vary though, sales
and whatnot. I get together with one or more other reloaders to
buy quantity and split shipping fees if possible.

 

[jacobhh]

doubled?

 

[marineman]

Great! I really, really appreciate the responses. I am getting a much better feel for what I need and what I have to do. Thanks.

 

[marineman]

When do cases need to be cleaned? Is it necessary to have a tumbler or can they be cleaned in another way? I probably won't be loading a tremendous amount of ammo, so I am not really concerned with saving time at this point.

 

[Historian]

If you want to go the really slow and laborious way you can use brass polish and clean them by hand with a rag. I would recommend a tumbler just because you can put them in, turn it on, and forget it for a couple of hours. Cases need to be clean every time you resize them and load them up. They should be cleaned prior to resizing since the grit and dirt that adheres to them after firing can damage your resizing die. I clean mine in a tumbler for and hour or two, lube them up, resize them, them stick them back in the tumbler for thirty minutes or so to remove the lube. Then I prime, charge them with powder and seat the bullet. Some folks put them back in the tumbler after reloading to get a final polish on the brass. If you do this be careful not to tumble them for more than about thirty minutes since some powders can change charactistics if they are tumbled for too long. Hope this helps. I do concur with others on this thread that you need to find a good book or two on the "how to's" of reloading brass cartridges. It's fun and you will enjoy it but I encourage you to do your homework before you start since a single misstep can be costly and dangerous. Good luck.

Historian

 

[richejr]

I would get the trickler also, really helps to make good safe loads, set your powder measure to dump a charge just shy of your goal, then trickle in the rest. You know then, that every round is the same and no double charges. I have no problems with Lee equipment, I use both Rcbs, and Lee dies, they both are fine, also remember to lube your brass, Very important step, or your gonna find out how brass gets stuck in the depriming/sizing die. Be safe and have fun.

 

[Historian]

I also should have mentioned that after I clean them and before piming them, I use a micrometer to check length and make sure each case is within spec. If they are too long, I put them in the trimmer and a couple of quick turns of the handle brings them back to the correct length. Be sure to use a deburring tool on the case after trimming. Resizing can cause the neck to stretch. A cartridge that is too long can lead to higher chamber preasures than may be safe. If it's a little on the short side, it's not really a big deal unless you're going for extreme accuracy. That's why you need to check and trim your brass. Also checking each case when you are measuring gives you an opportunity to cull any cases that may show wear like cracks, split necks, or dents in the shoulder.

Historian

 

[everallm]

One question asked was where to buy components.

I tend to start with going to Midway first to, loading everything in a cart and then use that to compare total prices INCLUDING shipping

www.midwayusa.com

Montana Gold
https://secure3.mooseweb.com/montanagoldbullet.com/pricelist.tpl

Wideners
http://http://www.wideners.com/

Natchez
http://www.natchezss.com/

Cabellas's
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/subcategory/subcategory.jsp;jsessionid=4MHDUVF1VRYXHLAQBBICCOVMCAEFCIWE?id=cat20728&rid=0180101070502&cmCat=perf&cm_ven=performics&cm_cat=Google_NonBrand&cm_pla=shootreload_reloading_general&cm_ite=reloading%20supplies&_requestid=29332&_requestid=54385

Graf and Sons (they pay freight so factor that in)
http://www.grafs.com/index.php

Blue-Star
http://www.blue-star-inc.com/

Cheyenne Brass
http://www.cheyennebrass.com/index.asp

Reloaders Auction (new to me but seems to get god stuff periodically)
http://www.reloadersauction.com/

Powder Valley
http://www.powdervalleyinc.com/

Oh and I also look at Gun Broker as well from time to time

http://www.gunbroker.com/

 

[NC-Mike]

I just bought 1,500 cast bullets from Cabelas today. They have free shipping.

If I tried to order a 1,000 count box, they would add an 8 dollar special handling charge because of the weight but the 500 count boxes still qualified for free shipping. Go figure...

2- 500 count boxes were just a couple dollars more than the 1,000 count box so you still save.

 

[BoilerUP]

I use Lee equipment exclusively; I started reloading 22-250 with a Lee Classic Loader this past spring for under $70 total investment and have slowly assembled a semi-respectable bench with a Breech Lock press, Safety Scale, Perfect Powder Measure, and dies for 22-250 (deluxe), 260 (pacesetter), and 243, 270, 30-06 (RGB). I also have the various goodies...case lube, trimmers, primer pocket cleaner, loading block, etc etc.

I trim my brass using the Lee case trimmer/shell holder and a cordless drill; I clean them using the same drill, shell holder, and steel wool from Meijer. It takes a little more time to do it this way, but I don't shoot enough volume to justify the use of a tumbler.

Bass Pro is 7 minutes away from my driveway but I buy most of my supplies and components from Midsouth Shooters Supply (best price/shipping cost IMO), with my powder/primers coming from local gun shows or a trip to Sportsman's Warehouse.

 

[marineman]

Thanks a lot. I am learning a lot and understanding much better what I need.

 

[Dorian]

Thanks a lot. I am learning a lot and understanding much better what I need.

Me too! Thanks for asking this for me to browse through while thinking about starting to reload marine

 

[NC-Mike]

I'm in the same situation. I just ordered the rest of my stuff.

You need a LOT of stuff if you're going to do it right.

Just for case prep you could use a tumbler, tumbler media, media additives, case trimmer, case deburrer and chamfer tool, pocket cleaner, a pocket reamer, calipers and case lube.

Don't forget bullet pullers, scales and powder dispensing systems which is yet another world onto itself.

You need so many things, I don't know what you can really do without but I did see a documentary on the Khyber pass that showed some kid squatting in the dirt reloading 7.62 x 39 with a hammer and a piece of wood.

 

[BoilerUP]

You need a LOT of stuff if you're going to do it right.

I disagree.

You don't need a LOT of stuff to do reloading "right"...and don't listen to anyone that tells you that you do. The only "right" way to reload is SAFELY...the rest is simply technique.

I started reloading with something like $67 in total investment...but it was with a dead blow hammer and piece of pine via Lee Classic Loader. My reloads went BOOM just as safely and accurately as those made with any whiz-bang progressive press and thousands of dollars in investment. Now, some would disagree with the safety or precision of the whack-a-mole loader, but the hundreds of 22-250 rounds I loaded with it never FTF, and I never blew a primer while seating it. I also wouldn't have won any 100m benchrest competitions with my loads, but the reloads were more accurate (1" @ 100yd) than I was with my rifle at the time...and more accurate than factory UMC, Remington, and Winchester I put through it!

Over the 6-8 months since I've started I've sunk another $500-600 or so into my supplies, averaging maybe $75/month once I bought my house in April.

One does not have to break the bank in order to start safely and accurately reloading - this fool is living proof!

 

[ilbob]

You may find the press you bought does not quite have the leverage of some other presses but it will do OK for the calibers you are loading.

Have fun. be safe.

Safety glasses
Take your time
Weigh powder charges often when you first start to make sure your powder measure is working.
NO distractions (radio, TV, wives, etc.)