new to the THR...Need help with scope mounting problem on rem 700

[herkyguy]

Leupold MK4 bases and rings on my 700 SPS tactical went on just fine and needed little adjustment other than compensating for the 20MOA built in. Sorry to the OP for the bad experience, but just to be clear, not every Remington 700 is misaligned.

 

[Uncle Mike]

Your not basing your scopes 'problem' on a 'bore sighter' reading, are you?

Bore sighters at best are useless....the laser type are ok, to a point, but the 'collet in the end of the barrel' type are plain ol' junk, don't trust or rely on them!

As for the duel dovetail Burris bases and rings, they are as strong as anything else, we put them on a lot of rifles where the customer doesn't want to spend the money on Talley mounts or wants a 'more elegant' look than a P-Rail, I have the duel dovetail mounts on several of my personal rifles, and have never had a problem or concern.

 

[MinnMooney]

Burris Signature Zee rings

Like I just wrote in another thread...........

The only rings that I buy anymore are the Burris Signature Zee rings.

here are the advantages :

1.) Absolutely no torque stress on the scope.
2.) They need no "lapping" due to rings not being aligned (the inserts take up all alignment errors).
3.) They have available "off-set" inserts to completely take up windage & elevation errors BEFORE ever touching the scopes turrets!
4.) No scope slippage or "lose of zero" - ever!
5.) No ring marks.
6.) Very reasonably priced.

 

[TonyAngel]

USSR, I actually changed my mind and decided to go with the Zee rings and Weaver type of mount, but I didn't get the MOA mount. Unless I'm misinterpreting something, I'll be able to use the adjustment rings to add 5, 10 or 20MOA of cant using the ring inserts. For the shooting that do, 10MOA will probably be plenty of cant, and if it isn't, I can just use a different insert and get as much as I need. I'm finding the Burris system to be pretty interesting. I like to try new stuff anyway, so I'm going to give it a shot. With the parts that I ordered, I'm planning to start out using the 10MOA insert to correct my windage problem and the 20MOA insert to add the cant to the front ring.

I figured that since I was going with the rings using the corrective inserts, I might as well use them to their full potential. I'm thinking that the two piece picatinny bases in conjunction with the Signature Zee rings should make a pretty clean setup.

Oh, I went with the picatinny bases because I want to be able to remove the scope from the rifle without having to mess with the rings.

 

[JDGray]

Not just Remington

Remington isn't alone when it comes to misaligned mounting holes. Savage has the same problem, as the action twist after heat treating. I hope its just a case of a bore sight tool oversight, don't use them, so I don't know how they work. Looking down the road through the bore at a neighbors hub cap, and dialing the elevation, has always got me on paper at 100yrds. Mechanicaly zero the scope in a v-block set up, until it holds poa no matter how you spin it, and start over. If you dont get the scope in perfect alignment with the bore, you will have to add windage, every time you dial in elevation, a total PITA!

 

[TonyAngel]

Which brings up another question. How can you be sure to get the scope lined up right? I've been using a level, but as close as it is, it isn't exact.

 

[JDGray]

Which brings up another question. How can you be sure to get the scope lined up right? I've been using a level, but as close as it is, it isn't exact.

I like to set a 40" tall target at 100yrds, draw a vertical line on it with a sharpi and a level, put a target spot at the bottom. With your rifle on a bench, line up the vertical crosshair, and shoot a round, dial up 12 moa and shoot another, dial 12 shoot another, dial 12 shoot again. All the shots should be on the line, and 12" apart.

If you now shoot at varing distance, and don't need to add windage as you dial elevation, you know the scope is perfectly centered over the bore

 

[ants]

Welcome to THR, woodswarrier. Thought I would recap...

A recap for those of you just joining the thread:

New guy on THR buys a brand new Remington 700, although still hasn't shot it yet.
Installed new trigger assembly.
Installed new sniper stock.
Installed new firing pin assembly.
Installed unfamiliar Leupold mount and rings.
Bought a Wheeler kit and lapped the rings.
Installed nice scope.
Didn't do any visual bore sighting, bought two Leupold bore sighting tools.
Says the scope doesn't point straight.
Still hasn't shot it yet.
He says:
1. It's Remington's fault.
2. It's Leupold's fault.
3. It's Wheeler's fault.

Now he's going to buy new rings.
Still hasn't shot it yet.

 

[Uncle Mike]

Yes Sir...this kind of stuff dominates, now days! Seriously, 6 out of 10 people coming through the door with a 'operational' type complaint has simply set something up incorrectly, and have not even shot the rifle yet, or didn't take time to follow the instructions on that tiny little piece of paper that came in the box with the rings!

That's not packing material you know!

 

[TonyAngel]

JDGray, do I need to do anything to make sure that the rifle is level when I do that? I do have a 36" level that I can take to the range to draw a straight up and down line.

Just to make sure that I get what you are saying. It makes sense to me, but I'm not going to assume anything. I'm in learning mode. OK, is it a good indication of the scope being mounted level if I have my scope "pointed" at a target, and then be able to dial in 12" of elevation and have my rounds hits at that higher target. I just don't know how I'm going to level the rifle at the range. It seems that I would need to.

 

[Omaha-BeenGlockin]

Dude---get thee to the range---bore sight the old fashioned way---shoot some live ammo---AND LEAVE THE STUPID TOYS AT HOME.

SERIOUSLY

 

[JDGray]

Tony,
I'm assuming you had the rifle level when you mounted the scope. I mount an anti cant level on my scopes to make everything easier, but I level the rifle using my swiveling bipod, by leveling it off the scope base rail, then lock it down(bipod lock), then I level the cross hairs by lining it up on my neighbors siding She must have level siding cause I'm 2 for 2 with my last two installs. Yes you will need the level at the range, to have a perfect vertical line on your target. This will also test your scopes elevation click accuracy.

At the range, just line your vertical x hair, on the vertical line you drew. Theres only 1 target dot on the paper that you keep aiming at(as low as possible), the bullet impacts will go up however. I give my turrets a full turn when I test mine, you will also find out how far your scopes capable of shooting with this test, if you have a tall enough target backer.

This is a good read
http://www.longrangehunting.com/articles/reticle-perpendicularity.php

 

[TonyAngel]

JD, thanks. Yes, I do level my rifle using the my bipod for support up front and my bench vice of support in back. I was just hoping that there was a better way because my mounting holes ARE misaligned, for sure.

Again, thanks for the info. My new mounting hardware is on the way to me, so I guess I'll be doing some scope mounting at the range this weekend. This will be the third weekend messing with the scope. I've never had to do this before. I would have done something with the rifle, except that I'm getting one ragged hole with some loads and don't want to let it go.

 

[JDGray]

The only fix for that is a windage adjustable base, or the burris offset spacer rings. The base is a piece of cake to adjust, just mechanicaly center your scope(spin it on v-blocks), mount it, adjust the rear untill your centered on target with your shots. Never tried the burris rings, but it seems like it would be a PITA to rotate and align just right, and keep everything level at the same time.

 

[TonyAngel]

JD, it does seem like a PITA proposition to line up, but I'm using the Leupold windage adjustable mount now and am really not crazy about the rig. It just doesn't seem to have a whole lot holding that rear ring on. I know it isn't as strong as a conventional ring or dual dovetail. I'm gonna give the Burris deal a try and see what happens. If it looks to be way too much of a PITA, I'll return it.