New Toys - Lyman Great Plains Rifle & Pietta 58 Sheriff

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drobs

drobs

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Been 8 months since I've been home. That's way too long between breaks!

2nd night home - 1st full day and I was sleeping on and off all day. Jet lagging at 1 am - cleaned the packing grease from my 54 cal Lyman GP rifle. Ran some WD40 soaked patches down the bore and was surprised by the brown stuff that came out. My Pietta Nipple Wrench worked just fine for removing the nipple.

Initial impressions of the rifle - I couldn't be happier.

Also was cleaning my new Pietta 58 Sheriff - bought 3 or 5 months ago. Action on this one seems smoother than my 2000 era full size 58.

Shooting & Pics tomorrow if this rain stops.
 
Regarding the Lyman, clean and repeat and repeat etc. The packing whatever, not really grease, is difficult to remove. I use boiling water, others use automotive parts cleaner. Point is clean it well before shooting it the first time. Clean, shoot, enjoy.
 
I figure I'd shoot it out and then clean it some more. Fire works for cleaning right?

Rained all day today.
 
Envious of your new Lyman, Really nicely made repros...Enjoy it greatly! And report back to us... FWIW, boiling hot water down the barrel is a good cleanser, just remove the nipple first!
 
drobs said:
Been 8 months since I've been home. That's way too long between breaks!
Also was cleaning my new Pietta 58 Sheriff - bought 3 or 5 months ago. Action on this one seems smoother than my 2000 era full size 58.
Click to expand...

I was real happy with my Pietta Sheriff's model. It was better than I expected for the price I paid.

After the boiling water, run some JB bore paste with a double patch. About 50 strokes to begin with. Those new Lymans have a rough barrel and shred patches when new. Rather than waste umpteen balls and patches, the bore paste is quicker and less expensive.
 
Bailing wire to the rescue!

Ran another 50 patches of Hoppe's # 9 and Sweets 7.62, looks clean to me. Put one patch down the bore using the wrong end of the ram rod.
A length of bailing wire, folded in 1/2, fished it right out of there on the 1st try.

Shooting today.
 
Couple of things. First, I hope you are not going to use #9 to clean your rifle after shooting BP or subs unless it's the #9 Black Powder Solvent. FWIW water works just a well and is much cheaper. Second, before you shoot it I would suggest cleaning again this time with brake cleaner or similar. Lastly I would suggest that you invest in a few attachments for your range rod. Breach scraper to get into the patent breech, a ball puller of correct calibre (also great for getting patches out) and maybe even a patch worm. Also if you don't have a good quality dedicated "range rod" get one.
 
18 rounds down range today. Started with 80grs shooting at a couple at tree stumps just to get the feel of it. Then set up my target stand and moved to my back porch. Couldn't find my targets and didn't want to get my greasy hands all over the house digging for them so just shot at a flattened cardboard box stapled to my target stand.

Shooting standing off hand at 25yds - shots were going way low and a bit left with 80gr of FFFg Graf's Scheutzen. Bumped it up to 120gr and shots were still going a little left but to point of aim. Couldn't find my sandbag rest so used my range bag as a rest and shots were centered about point of aim. No pretty groups but I really don't have a good bench setup off the back porch.

Learned a couple things - 2 patches is too thick using .010 thick patches and Hornady .530 dia ball. Got it started then had to hammer it (plastic shot filled mallet) the rest of the way down.
Dry balled one. Took the nipple out and fed powder into the chamber from my flask. Replaced the nipple, capped it, and fired it - cleared the dry ball. Piece of cake!!!

Remington #10 caps worked just fine. Next go at it I will lower it to 100grs and see what happens. Will keep better track of my fired patches. Hard to tell what's going on picking up the patches at the end of the day shooting.

I ran 2 to 3 lubed patches between shots. Bought my patches and 500rds of Hornady ball from Mid South Shooting Supply during a 1 day 30% off Hornady sale a couple months ago. Bought 1 box of .535 dia ball - which I can't see using. At least not with a patch.

Filled a 5 gal Lowe's bucket with water and did the plunger method of cleaning the barrel after removing the nipple & clean out screw. A dedicated brass range rod would make sense for that... Followed that with everyone's favorite - WD40. Keeping track of the cleaning jag is annoying.

I had fun but need a better bench rest. Might need to go to a formal range and borrow their lead sled.

Will edit this post with pics later.
 
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rdstrain49 said:
Couple of things. First, I hope you are not going to use #9 to clean your rifle after shooting BP or subs unless it's the #9 Black Powder Solvent. FWIW water works just a well and is much cheaper. Second, before you shoot it I would suggest cleaning again this time with brake cleaner or similar. Lastly I would suggest that you invest in a few attachments for your range rod. Breach scraper to get into the patent breech, a ball puller of correct calibre (also great for getting patches out) and maybe even a patch worm. Also if you don't have a good quality dedicated "range rod" get one.
Click to expand...

Didn't feel like leaving the house today but considered buying some brake cleaner. I do need all of the above. Had an order ready a couple months ago but never pulled the trigger. Shooting the gun gives me some better ideas of what I need to order.

Regarding the brake cleaner. I have trouble believing these Eyetalians have a preservative that will resist Hoppe's #9 and Sweets 7.62.

Need a powder horn - filled my powder flask twice.
Made up a possibles bag using an old canvas Romanian AK mag pouch. It works but a nice possibles bag would be better. Plan to buy some FFg but don't feel like driving 1.5hrs to buy it, yet. FFFg worked just fine.

Not having shot in 8 months - my breathing, trigger pull, and follow through was rusty. Dinner is calling but my groups will show, the lack of practice.
 
Drobs, still don't know which #9 you are using, probably missed it in a post. As far as removing whatever Lyman uses for packing "grease", you most certainly will not get it out with either of the #9 solvents. The JB on the other hand will do two things. It will help some in get the packing preservative out and perhaps even more importantly, it will aid in polishing the bore.

It will be interesting to see a good control group shot from a solid bench. You should expect one ragged hole at 50 yards, and most people with practice should be able to shoot 2 - 3" groups at 100 yards. Keep in mine that the rifle, if properly fed and used, is capable of 1" groups at 100 yards.

Get yourself better organized nest time so that you can concentrate on shooting not looking for stuff.

Once you start working up loads for real, remember, change only one thing at a time. Otherwise you'll never know for sure what helped and didn't. Also, keep records, unless you have a much better memory than I. Good luck.
 
rdstrain49 said:
Drobs, still don't know which #9 you are using, probably missed it in a post. As far as removing whatever Lyman uses for packing "grease", you most certainly will not get it out with either of the #9 solvents. The JB on the other hand will do two things. It will help some in get the packing preservative out and perhaps even more importantly, it will aid in polishing the bore.

It will be interesting to see a good control group shot from a solid bench. You should expect one ragged hole at 50 yards, and most people with practice should be able to shoot 2 - 3" groups at 100 yards. Keep in mine that the rifle, if properly fed and used, is capable of 1" groups at 100 yards.

Get yourself better organized nest time so that you can concentrate on shooting not looking for stuff.

Once you start working up loads for real, remember, change only one thing at a time. Otherwise you'll never know for sure what helped and didn't. Also, keep records, unless you have a much better memory than I. Good luck.
Click to expand...

How do I say this politely?
How about you stop posting in this thread. You're starting to piss me off.
Furthermore, I don't see anywhere that I asked for you advice. Why don't you keep it to yourself. I came here to show and tell, I don't appreciate the "get yourself organized" comment. I'm just trying out a new gun for the 1st freaking time.
 
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Very nice looking rifle, OP. I like the case hardening on your lock plate a lot. I rubbed my stock with some Tru-Oil to bring a sheen to it but truth be told I almost wish I'd left it be. I sure love a neat caplock muzzle loading gun. I love to also assemble the things for it, my bag and horn etc. Very fun hobby. A cool book you might like is The Muzzle Loading Cap Lock Rifle by Ned Roberts. Fantastic piece of literature and really got me going on caplocks.
 
Shot another 10 to 15 or so rounds today. Found my targets. 1st loading, just for the heck of it, was a double ball load at 120grs. Both balls hit the target right next to each other. Almost touching.
Dropped the load down to 80gr and started filing the front sight. The manual recommends 80gr and a 6 o'clock sight picture. Gave up after about 4 shots all going low.

Kept filing away then moved up to 90grs and used a Center of Mass sight picture. Put 2 right next to each other in the 10X/10 ring. Found myself chasing those 2 and called it quits. Shots were at the same elevation on the target but hitting left, again.

24345629837_8686aaf2f0_b.jpg
 
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Your rifle is tightening up real nice. In my opinion, the Lyman barrel is as good or better then any out there.

I just wish more people would compete with their Lyman GPRs to see what they can do. I don't know why since they're extremely well built rifles. Ask yourself when was the last time you saw a broken Lyman.
 
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Years ago I bought a co2 powered discharger. Slip it over the nipple and press the handle,automatically discharges the rifle. Powder and all.
 
drobs- I try to keep petroleum products like WD40 away from the bores of my black powder arms, because sometimes the residue formed by the combination of petroleum and soot can harden into something like varnish. WD40 is basically kerosene and paraffin.

I may have an adjustable buckhorn sight for the GP. I'll look for it in case you're interested.
 
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