New wet tumbler - still need to chamfer/debur case mouths?

[Navy_Guns]

I just got a Rebel 17 wet media tumbler kit, love it. I'm wondering if I can skip the chamfer/debur step after trimming rifle brass if it's going to go through the tumbler? Anyone tried this?

 

[MErl]

I would expect you still would need to remove the burrs. The pins shouldn't be rounding any corners.

 

[Navy_Guns]

I ask because there appears to be a quantity of brass flakes that come out even on pistol brass that I have not trimmed. I wonder if the pins will bend the lip created by the trimming back and forth and break it off for me. Guess I'll just have to run a batch to try it!

 

[GBExpat]

New wet tumbler - still need to chamfer/debur case mouths?

Yes.

 

[PCCUSNRET]

You should clean before you resize the brass and trim after you resize. So yes, you will still need to chamfer and debur the case mouths.

 

[AR-Bossman]

Warning... if you trim before cleaning again, it will flatten out your case mouth again making them shorter and you end up with ridges and basically have to trim again.

I trim AFTER everything else is done.

 

[Navy_Guns]

Hmm... Did a 4# batch for 4 hours. I do see how the case mouth isn't as perfectly smooth-flat as it was just after trimming. However, they're measuring the same 2.005" as they did before so I figure I'll load this batch anyway. Good to know, though. I had vibrated them months ago for a quick clean before I lubed and sized. I wanted to run them in the new tumbler to take off the lube. Guess I'll clean the rest before I trim now. Thanks!

 

[judgedelta]

The stainless pins will make minute dents in the neck of the rifle brass, that you can see with a magnifying glass. Makes seating flat base bullets (especially .223) difficult; boat-tail not so much. a twist or two with a champher tool is all it takes. Just my experience.

 

[tonyjr]

Short answer - yes .
I deprime and clean / ream pockets before tumbling . Cleaning / reaming seems to let primers seat easier - I prime by hand . I like a clean flask hole .
I tried the steel pins - cases felt " different " . I went back to walnut and corn cob .
But 95% of my reloads are for pistols and have not trimmed in about 18 months [ finally got loads for 357 , 44 and 50 AE to my liking . ] I / we do check case OAL [ good for nephews / nieces to use calipers ]
BTW - I wear latex gloves when depriming - nicks , splits and cracks snag on gloves and since probably about 50% of shells hit floor stops lead from getting on hands .
The SS pins are used in polisher [ rock ] for cleaning rust off dies and other things . I use WD-40 in with pins - I know others run them dry .
FYI - the WD 40seems to let dies come loose and I swab out dies and stand on a paper towel for at least an hour , or put back in case and stand up on cleaning patches . If any wet spots - swab again and wait .

 

[Hondo 60]

You're chamfering so you don't scratch the bullet as you seat it.
So I would guess that yes, you still need to chamfer & deburr.

Maybe you could use a 10x magnifying glass to check it?
That's just a wild guess, not a hypothesis.

Personally, I use Boat Tails. With the narrowed base they seat MUCH easier.
And I usually skip the C&D.
But again, that's just me, not necessarily saying that's what anyone else should do.