Newbie Press Question
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snuffy
Member
"Yes. The Lee 4 die set comes with the Lee Factory Crimp die, which does a taper crimp."
Yes, BUT, to get a little more specific, in auto pistol rounds the FCD is a taper crimp. In revolver rounds, it's a roll crimp. In rifle,(bottleneck cases), it's a collet crimper that forces the extreme end of the neck sideways into a crimp grove, or will crimp into a plain bullet as well.
Basically the 3 and 4 die sets are the same up to the FCD,(final crimp die). the 3 die set has as it's 3rd die a seater with a crimper built in. You CAN seat AND crimp in one pull of the handle. Most people do NOT do it that way. It's tuff to get the timing down just right, and the case length is critical. Most seat first, then, in a seperate operation, set the die deeper to crimp,(the seating stem is backed out to do this).
With the four die set, you simply seat with the third die and crimp with the FCD. The FCD also has a carbide ring in it's base that irons out any lumps or bulges that may have been caused by seating the bullet.
Rifle die sets from Lee are available as deluxe sets, which includes their FCD for that caliber rifle. They are NOT available in all calibers though. Lee WILL make a special die for you in a caliber that they don't offer on a regular basis. You have to send them a sized case of correct overall length so they can get the length right. IIRC it's a $50.00 deal, but worth it IMHO.
Yes, BUT, to get a little more specific, in auto pistol rounds the FCD is a taper crimp. In revolver rounds, it's a roll crimp. In rifle,(bottleneck cases), it's a collet crimper that forces the extreme end of the neck sideways into a crimp grove, or will crimp into a plain bullet as well.
Basically the 3 and 4 die sets are the same up to the FCD,(final crimp die). the 3 die set has as it's 3rd die a seater with a crimper built in. You CAN seat AND crimp in one pull of the handle. Most people do NOT do it that way. It's tuff to get the timing down just right, and the case length is critical. Most seat first, then, in a seperate operation, set the die deeper to crimp,(the seating stem is backed out to do this).
With the four die set, you simply seat with the third die and crimp with the FCD. The FCD also has a carbide ring in it's base that irons out any lumps or bulges that may have been caused by seating the bullet.
Rifle die sets from Lee are available as deluxe sets, which includes their FCD for that caliber rifle. They are NOT available in all calibers though. Lee WILL make a special die for you in a caliber that they don't offer on a regular basis. You have to send them a sized case of correct overall length so they can get the length right. IIRC it's a $50.00 deal, but worth it IMHO.
pasquot
Member
newby press question.
I didn't read all the responses on this thread so it may have already been covered.
I went through the same questions you are asking when i started. My primary reason for reloading is cost. as well as accuracy.
For what you want within your budget you have to buy lee. I started with the lee turret press kit without the auto index. bought the whole kit. That was seven years ago. The only thing i am not using is the powder scale. I bought a pact bbk electronic scale. Again this may have been covered. but in general if you load more than 200 rounds per year it pays to reload. I would start with the lee turret press with auto index. but prime with lee hand primer. Also i just ordered a lee program for windows. (lee shooter program for windows) it has a wealth of info including a cost of reloading calculator. I is not necessary to have that to start reloading but for $20.00 it's a lot of usefull info. One other thing, it is not necessary to have a cast press to reload. brass is relitavely soft and easy to form. etc. There is nothing wrong with the origional lee turet press kit. If after a while you find something else to thereoticly upgrade to, there will always be people like you who are just starting out and looking for a starter kit if you want to sell it later. Keep in mind, if you load 300 a week +. the lee kit will have already been paid for before you decide to sell it if you do.
I didn't read all the responses on this thread so it may have already been covered.
I went through the same questions you are asking when i started. My primary reason for reloading is cost. as well as accuracy.
For what you want within your budget you have to buy lee. I started with the lee turret press kit without the auto index. bought the whole kit. That was seven years ago. The only thing i am not using is the powder scale. I bought a pact bbk electronic scale. Again this may have been covered. but in general if you load more than 200 rounds per year it pays to reload. I would start with the lee turret press with auto index. but prime with lee hand primer. Also i just ordered a lee program for windows. (lee shooter program for windows) it has a wealth of info including a cost of reloading calculator. I is not necessary to have that to start reloading but for $20.00 it's a lot of usefull info. One other thing, it is not necessary to have a cast press to reload. brass is relitavely soft and easy to form. etc. There is nothing wrong with the origional lee turet press kit. If after a while you find something else to thereoticly upgrade to, there will always be people like you who are just starting out and looking for a starter kit if you want to sell it later. Keep in mind, if you load 300 a week +. the lee kit will have already been paid for before you decide to sell it if you do.
SASS#23149
Member
Your press selection will work just fine.
One thing you MUST have for the rifle calibers is case lube.You cannot do without it,the case will jam in the die and your done loading.Not sure which is 'the best',but a lot of folks like Hornady One-Shot.Imperial sizing wax is highly reccmended too,and a small tin lasts almost forever.
The Lee powder measures/dippers etc are kinda famous for measuring lighter loads than the charts show.The first time out I'd suggest going one or two sizes larger than the charts say,and CHECK SEVERAL DUMPS WITH YOUR SCALE.
fwiw, a lot of newbies,myself included,start out by using the lowest reccomended load on the chart to avoid 'accidents'.You'll be disappointed with 'poopy' loads,so my reccomendation is to use medium level loads while learning,and if they shoot good,leave well enough alone.
You can search for years looking for the perfect load.Don't ask me how I/we know this.
One thing you MUST have for the rifle calibers is case lube.You cannot do without it,the case will jam in the die and your done loading.Not sure which is 'the best',but a lot of folks like Hornady One-Shot.Imperial sizing wax is highly reccmended too,and a small tin lasts almost forever.
The Lee powder measures/dippers etc are kinda famous for measuring lighter loads than the charts show.The first time out I'd suggest going one or two sizes larger than the charts say,and CHECK SEVERAL DUMPS WITH YOUR SCALE.
fwiw, a lot of newbies,myself included,start out by using the lowest reccomended load on the chart to avoid 'accidents'.You'll be disappointed with 'poopy' loads,so my reccomendation is to use medium level loads while learning,and if they shoot good,leave well enough alone.
You can search for years looking for the perfect load.Don't ask me how I/we know this.
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