Newbie...what else do I need

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I'm new to reloading and want to start reloadig for my hunting rifles (.223, .243, .30-30, .270., .30-06) and handguns (.45, .357). I purchased the following equipment at an auction and all of it is in excellent condition and just need to know what else I need to complete my collection?
-RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Press
-RCBS Model 5.10 Reloading Scale
-Lyman Ohans Reloading Scale
-Bonaanza Cartridge case trimmer
-RCBS Power Trickler
-RCBS Die Sets for .243 & .270

What else do I need to complete so I can start reloading? I was also advised by a local gun dealer to buy my dies seperate instead of in a set because some compaines have better setter than others? Also, what about RCBS Percision Mic for the .30-06 which is my most common long range shooting gun? Thanks in advance.
 
You will need/want the following, not in any particular order:

A good loading manual. Actually several are better. "ABCs of Reloading" is a good "how to" book. Lyman #49 is a good general loading book. The bullet manufacturers, Sierra, Hornady, Speer and others make good books covering reloading information and data on their products. Powder manufacturers have good loading data, but not much instructional stuff.

A caliper. The inexpensive Frankfort Arsenal or Harbor Freright type are fine. For measuring cartridge overall length (COL) and case length.

Case lube pad and lube for the rifle cartridges. Get carbide dies for handgun. You do not need lube with handgun carbide dies.

Tumbler and some media for cleaning the cases.

A powder measure. Any of the drum style are good. Get a baffle for it if it does not have one. A powder measure stand is handy although most will screw into the press.

Loading blocks are handy to hold cases while in process.

A hand priming tool. Depending on the tool, you may or may not need shell holders for the case you are priming. Priming on the press is a pain in my opinion.

RCBS Precision Mic or the Sinclair International Bump Gauge or Hornady's equivalent. Useful for setting up your dies for proper headspace. Save you money and do not bother with the fixed case gauges. The caliper is useful here for the Sinclair and Hornady units.

Records book to record your work. Lyman and Sinclair make pre-printed items. Others probably do as well. Spreadsheets work fine or you do like me and create your own and print them on the copy machine. I use a three ring loose leaf binder with tabs for each cartridge.

I think that is the most important. There are lots of other tools that are helpful and useful but are not "required".

Have fun.
 
You'll need shell holders, can't hold the brass in the press without them. Unlike dies, one may cover more than one caliber.
 
Mr Hunter -

Welcome to THR and welcome to Reloading !

That's some GREAT equipment you've stumbled onto. I very much doubt you could have done better if you'd have planned it out and pulled out 3 or 4 hundred dollars. Wow wee, you should pat yourself on the back!

Some thoughts...

• You need to read about the RIFLE reloading process. It differs from pistol or shotgun reloading in significant ways. (Also make sure when you get advice that people know you are loading for "rifle".) A fine book you may find at your library is The ABCs of Reloading. Also read the stickies at the top of this page.

• You need a reloading manual. If you have a particular brand of bullet (like Hornady or Sierra) that you are married to, then buy their manual. If not, the best general manual is the Lyman #49. (There is more on the reloading process in these manuals too.)

• One of the differences between rifle and pistol reloading is sheer volume. So while you load 20 rounds of 243, I might load 500 rounds of pistol. So you don't need a powder measure for 20 rounds. You'll use your powder trickler directly into the scale pan. That's going to give you far higher quality, but less quantity. Follow?

scales.jpg

• Both your scales were made by Ohaus. They are VERY delicate instruments. And any rust on the knife edges needs to be removed. You'll want the scale you intend to use up and away from the work area so that it won't be affected by the on-going reloading. Like in the picture below...

Bench1.png

Cfullgraf is correct, you'll need a 6" caliper of some type to make physical measurements. Harbor Freight is a good place to look for a digital model. You'll need to measure things as close as a human hair. Literally .002 inches. These range in price from $7 to $30 for the exact same unit.

• Also some sizing lube and maybe a lube pad. I like a Lube Pad loaded with Imperial Sizing Wax.

• Look inside your die boxes for the shell holders. They look like this...

369707.jpg

Hope this helps!
 
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Get the powder measure- trickling a typical 30-06 load will take a lot longer than necessary. I get my RCBS Uniflow to get me within 1 grain or so, than I use the trickler to get it exactly where I want it.

Manuals, or at least the data from your bullet makers

An inertia bullet puller for those "OOPS" we all make from time to time

Set it up where you can be left undisturbed - no TV, kids, etc........

Take your time, and you'll be fine
 
What about any other tools for case prep? When I reload my rifle ammo, I will only be doing 25-50 rounds at a time so so I need the powder measure? What dies would be the best to purchase?
 
For loading rifle cases I'd suggest getting some Imperial Die Wax rather than the stamp pad and lube. Imperial is great, you use very little and produces the easiest required resizing force IMO. One little tin, looks like shoe polish tin, will last a long time.

As others have said you don't need a powder measure as its not too time consuming to scale powder charges for the relatively small batches of shells you intend to reload.
 
What about any other tools for case prep? When I reload my rifle ammo, I will only be doing 25-50 rounds at a time so so I need the powder measure? What dies would be the best to purchase?

To start with you need some way to trim the brass, measure the length, and clean off lube (rifle) and polish the brass. If you use military brass, you will need some way to get rid of the primer crimp.

Other case prep tools are nice to have but are not absolutely necessary.

Note for trimming, you will need a chamfer/deburring tool and I think you will need pilots for the trimmer you purchased. Pilots may be included but you need to check.

Imperial Die wax is good stuff and I use it for certain tasks. But I prefer a case lube pad for lubing cases for resizing. Try both and make your own determination. The lube pads and Imperial die wax are pretty inexpensive.

A big note, do use too much lube, which ever way you lube. It will flow up into the shoulder area and put dents in the shoulder of the case. Generally not disastrous but it looks bad. The shoulder will blow out on the next firing. I hang the shoulder and neck over the side of the pad and only lube the body of the case. You will also need a way to get a little lube inside the case neck for the expander ball. Most use a brush with a little lube on it. This is one place I use the Imperial wax.

Measuring powder without a some kind of measure gets tedious fast. If cost is a big issue, buy Lee's powder scoop set and you can scoop powder until your load is close the proper weight and then trickle the rest. I do this on occasions when working up loads. Any of the drum powder measures are good.

RCBS Uniflow is probably the most economical to start with but by the time you bring it up to the level as the others by purchasing micrometer measuring heads and powder baffles you have spent near as much. The baffle is a must, the micrometer measuring head is not. Reddings are probably the most expensive in this class of measure. There are some powder measures with costs in the stratosphere but definitely overkill for your use.

As said before, it is best to have the drum cavity sized to optimize the charge thrown. Not absolutely a must but...

Some folks have good luck with the Lee powder measures but I find them problematic.

Any of the dies from the major manufacturers will work. Lee dies, which are good dies, do not come with clamping lock rings. This means, once the die is set and adjusted you could lose your setting when removing or installing the dies in the press. You can buy clamping lock rings but you lose some of the cost advantage of Lee dies. Some folks drill and tap the Lee lock rings to provide a positive lock.

Regardless what some folks say, without some positive lock on the lock rings, you will at some point lose the setting and then have a bunch of brass not processed correctly.

I prefer Redding at this time but have dies from all the manufacturers.

Anyway, your choice.

Good luck.
 
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I am an avid fan of Hornady One Shot case lube and would recommend it to anyone. I don't screw with a case lube pad because of the gunky buildup in the dies over time. Also, RCBS equipment is all I have used for years except the powder trickler. It's too light. I bought a Redding trickler at bass pro and like the weight but its a little short for the RCBS scale. I set it on an empty primer box/case thingy to get it a quarter inch higher so it can reach the little scale tray. Works fine-good enough.
 
If the bonanza trimmer is like the Forster (Forster bought Bonanza), then you may be able to get new pilots for your extra calibers from Forster. Otherwise, you may need a new trimmer.

I recommend the Wilson trimmer. Simple, robust, and extremely accurate and consistent. You will need case holders too, but you use the same holder for an entire family of cartridges that share the same case body.

Andy
 
Hi I would thoroughly reccomend the book Handloading for competition by Glen D Zeidiker as one if not the best book arround on loading.It takes you from the basics right up to benchrest precision & is a good investment.With regards powder measures some work better than others depending upon the powder type (ball , flake or grain) I would suggest a Lee Perfect powder measure as being godd with all types ( as I have found out ) & is the one I tend to use the most ( also have RCBS & Harrels measures)

James
 
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