Newbie with Ruger GP100 problem - Cylinder will not index consistently

[easyrider604]

Hello All,

Reason I joined is this is a great forum, with very knowledgeable members.
Always had a .45 1911 automatic until last week, that is. Since I've loved wheelguns my whole life, decided to simplify my reloading life by sticking to .357/.38 special only.

I'd appreciate any ideas from you on the following:

Just fired my brand new GP100 6". At the store, I checked the cylinder indexing and it was perfect.

However, after approximately 50 rds .38 +P 158 grn LSWC and 30 rds .357 magnum with 158 grn LSWC on top of 9.8 grn Blue Dot, the cylinder will not index consistently on 2 chambers if the gun is tilted with the left side (of the gun) facing up about 45 degrees or more.

I discovered this "problem" after cleaning the piece and while enjoying a little dry fire practice. It only happens during slow double-action and single action dry-fire. I will not dare shoot my new baby until i get a definite answer.

If the gun is held vertically, the cylinder indexes all chambers perfectly.
This has never happened to my S&W 686's with many, many rounds through them.

What's happening?

Thanks in advance
Jet

 

[gmflash88]

Let me preface this by saying that I am not a smith or an expert in this matter...

I own a 4" GP100 and have put about 500-600 rounds (75% .38's) through it since I purchased it in January and have had absolutely no issues. Other then a little smoother trigger now (polished using the IBOK) it's the same as when I took it out of the box. If it were me, I'd be starting the warranty process.

You might try the ruger forum, but I think you'll get the same response.

My .02

 

[Neophyte1]

Call Ruger

You have a warranty problem. Call Ruger

@603-865-2442 Ask for a "box" to return for new warranty. They should give you an 'RGA' number. keep it somewhere safe

do not return your handgun box or any of the paperwork.

Or ask for 'service manager' he can probably walk you through fix'in it. He'll just send you the parts if "YOU" think you can do the work.

Have on HAND the serial #, model, when you make your call.

follow up if you would. Thanks

broken spring or latch notch

 

[easyrider604]

Gmflash88 and Neophyte1,

Thank you for your replies. I called the dealer and he said he's never seen the problem before, mainly because he never looked for it. So he suggested the same thing you did, i.e. send it to the factory warranty center in Quebec (I'm in B.C., Canada) for warranty work.

The non-indexing/locking problem in two chambers, only appears during very slow SA cocking and very slow DA firing, and only when the gun is tilted.
Never happens when the gun is around the vertical.

I'm thinking perhaps I should shoot a couple hundred more medium-high magnum loads first, see if the indexing/locking problem will go away. I'll just make sure the cylinder locks securely before each shot. It could be a simple matter of the locking lug "mating" in the slots properly.

Thanks again
Jet

 

[Virginian]

If it's the cylinder bolt not mating to the slot it is possibly a genuine "first". When it doesn't index, where is the cylinder bolt relative to the slot, and is it being pressed against the cylinder by spring pressure?

 

[Neophyte1]

catastrophic

EasyRider: Sir; don't place yourself in jeopardy. Out of index ?could? cause a major catastrophic break down.
Ruger will fix it. Your firearm is better than good out of the box. You shouldn't be having "any" problems.
Call Ruger ?Canada? and talk to the service manager and see if he can walk you through ?finding? the problem.
I would not fire the unit UNTIL.
Follow up when you have more info. Thanks.

 

[WHW]

I purchased a new 3 inch GP100. When dry firing, everything was perfect. After 2 or 3 cylinders of .38 special, the cylinder wouldn't rotate in single or double action unless I actually grasped the cylinder and turned it with my off hand.
Back to Ruger and they replaced everything but the serial number. It works great now. This seems to be a disturbingly common problem with the GP's. Send it back and let them fix it. An extremely detailed description of the problem will help. Also, save your shipping receipt and Ruger will reimburse you. Good luck.

whw

 

[easyrider604]

Ok, I'll call Ruger's Warranty line

Neophyte1,
I will call Ruger before doing anything else.

Virginian,
Yes, the bolt is pressed against the cylinder by the spring. The attached photo shows the hammer in full cock, the bolt is right at the edge of the slot. The gun is laying on its left side. If I raise the gun to vertical position, the cylinder will rotate by itself, bolt will slide in place and cylinder will lock securely. (I tried to attach photo but don't see it when previewed this message...I'll post it anyway and if photo doesn't appear, will figure out how to attach later)

Again, this strange phenomenon occurs only if two conditions are present:
1. the gun is tilted at least 45 degrees, the right side facing up
2. very slowly cock in SA and DA

This problem was discovered as I was checking the smoothness of the action and the timing.

WHW,
I experienced the same "locked cylinder" problem you described. It happened last night while dry firing. The cylinder was jammed tight!

I opened the cylinder and closed it; the cylinder then indexed part of the way, but it tightened again. Repeated open/close cycle thrice before the cylinder rotated smoothly again.

Could this be a lubrication problem? How do you lubricate the trigger mechanism and locking mechanism?

Weird! Frankly, I'm more concerned about this locked cylinder problem, than the non-indexing problem.

Realistically, the cylinder indexes and locks any which way the gun is positioned, if operated SA/DA at normal shooting speed.

A jammed cylinder is a potentially fatal problem.

So WHW, did Ruger explain what the cause of your cylindar jam was?

Thanks to all of you,
Jet

 

[WHW]

Jet,

Ruger replaced all the internals, and I mean everything. They did not give an explanation as to the problem, probably because they really didn't diagnose it. All they did was replace everything.

This was a full out parts change and not a repair.

I would be interested to hear if you can rotate the cylinder with your off hand when you experience a jam.

It's a shame, but I think you just need to send it back to Ruger. In your letter of explanation, request that they test fire at least four or five cylinders before sending it back to you. That will reduce the chances of you having to send it back a second time. The parts change took about 2 weeks.

I can say that my GP-100 is rock solid now. I trust it enough to carry it.

Good Luck,
whw

 

[easyrider604]

Rotate cylinder by hand during jam

WHW,

WHW,
Been trying to re-create the total cylinder jam but so far have failed

Will try to rotate cylinder by hand if jam happens again and will post result.

I have felt the cylinder tighten somewhat while dry firing and yes, the cylilnder can be rotated by hand.

One of the posters on a similar topic says it is residue/dirt in the barrel-cylinder gap that caused his jam. I have not measured the B-C gap in my GP100 but just by looking at it against a light, and comparing to my other revolvers, it does seem this GPs gap is decidedly smaller. I'll have to get a feeler gauge to measure.

I'll call Ruger tomorrow.

Jet

 

[Master Blaster]

The timing is marginal, it needs the forces of gravity to help it along this is why when you tilt it it doesnt lock up all the way. It needs a new Pawl.

Send it back because the timing will not improve with wear, and eventually it will not lock up at all.

 

[farmmer dan]

Too bad for me but revolvers are not fool proof . I bought my s&w 686 used and the cylinder would not lock up with slow double pull. gunsmith said it was from slamming the cylinder shut when reloading fast. It bent the yoke and that was throwing the timing off. Also bent the ejection rod in front of the cylinder but he fixed it and all better now

 

[easyrider604]

The timing is marginal, it needs the forces of gravity to help it along this is why when you tilt it it doesnt lock up all the way. It needs a new Pawl.

I called the Ruger Service Center in Quebec. The tech (Paul) basically told me the same thing and to send the GP back.

I would not fire the unit UNTIL.

Definitely.

It's a shame, but I think you just need to send it back to Ruger. In your letter of explanation, request that they test fire at least four or five cylinders before sending it back to you. That will reduce the chances of you having to send it back a second time. The parts change took about 2 weeks.

The GP is going to the Service Center asap.

Gentlemen, thank you for your responses and advice. Will report back soon as my baby returns.
Jet

 

[easyrider604]

I bought my s&w 686 used and the cylinder would not lock up with slow double pull. gunsmith said it was from slamming the cylinder shut when reloading fast. It bent the yoke and that was throwing the timing off. Also bent the ejection rod in front of the cylinder but he fixed it and all better now

The previous owner/s could have been flipping the cylinder shut, a Hollywood influence

Given proper instruction, I think one can reload fast without stressing the yoke and bending the ejection rod. Betcha Jerry Miculek, for all his speed, doesn't come close to causing this kind of damage to his revolvers.

 

[Wildfire]

Cylinder Gap.

Hey there:
Check the gap between the cylinder and the forcing cone. Make sure it is clean. You may have fouled it or have lead deposits .
Sounds like the same problem I had once and that was what it was.
This could stop the cylinder from turning all the way.
Keep dry firing and see if you can make it lock up wrong. But , Ruger will fix anything ....

 

[easyrider604]

B-C gap

Check the gap between the cylinder and the forcing cone. Make sure it is clean. You may have fouled it or have lead deposits .
Sounds like the same problem I had once and that was what it was.
This could stop the cylinder from turning all the way.

The barrel-cylinder gap does look tight when looking against a bright light and compared with the two 686's. I will buy a feeler gauge and measure, will continue dry firing.

Thanks
Jet