I bought a new Nikon Scope to replace my old scope. I am mounting it in the same brackets as the old one. When I try to bore site the new scope it is so far off (down and right) that doing the maximum adjustment will not bring it in. Does anyone know how to correct this and/or what I am doing wrong? Thanks for your help.
Nikon Scope
- Thread starter tedclewis
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Vaportrail
Member
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2006
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- 10
Are you sure you do not have your scope oriented with the windage adjustment on top where the elevation dial is supposed to be? Be sure of this and then recenter your reticle by turning each adjustment to its end and then count the total amount of clicks required to take it to the other end of its adjustment. After you do this then go back half the amount of clicks that you counted and your adjustment will be centered. Do this with both the windage and elevation adjustment. Your scope will now be in the center of its adjustment range.
1948CJ2A
Member
I had this problem once and it turned out I had a wrong base (2 piece Weaver style). Maybe your old scope had longer tolerances in the adjustment?
What's the rifle and what was the old scope you're replacing? Also helpful would be the types of mounts you're using.
What's the rifle and what was the old scope you're replacing? Also helpful would be the types of mounts you're using.
SuedePflow
Member
The only time I've ever had this happen, poorly mounted/adjusted rings were the culprit.
A quick way to recenter your scopes crosshairs is to hold the objective firmly against a stable (wallmounted) mirror with a good light source behind you and simply turn the adj. dials until the reflection of the crosshairs are hidden by the crosshairs themselves. Takes a LOT less dialing.
The rifle is a Browning 30-06, semi auto. I was replacing a Simmons scope. I am not sure of the manuf of the base, I put it on a long time ago. It is a raised mount where you can see the open sites under it. I think the best thing for me to do is just replace the base. This is the third or fourth scope I have had on this base and it is time to replace it. Thanks.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
That might be the problem right there. Some of those older rings that allow you to see through were made poorly and can bend slightly. If you did inadvertently bend or twist one of the rings even slightly you would be seeing the problem you are reporting.
Can you post a picture of the rings and I can tell you if you have the ones I'm talking about.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
You can't show us the picture from your hard drive. You have to upload it to the forum or a 3rd party hosting site and link to it.
Ks5shooter
Contributing Member
I am a staunch Leupold scope user.Tried to help freind with same problem with a Nikon 3-9 BDC.Couldn't get enough adjustment out of it.Sent it to Nikon,they said they repaired it.My freind lost all confidence in it and never remounted it after they fix. Sits on a shelf ever since.
wild willy
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- Aug 19, 2008
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- 634
Its your scope mount. Back when see thru were a lot more popular then they are now it was common to have shim them.There is nothing wrong with Nikon scopes get some good bases and rings and you'll be fine
Throw those horrid rings in the trash ASAP. The DNZ or Talley lightweights are the only thing I'll use anymore. The see-thru stuff should be illegal to sell they are so bad.
Normally I would stay away from anything windage adjustable, but in this case they might be needed. If this were my rifle I'd look at the DNZ mounts first.
http://swfa.com/DNZ-Game-Reaper-1-Scopemount-P41422.aspx
Normally I would stay away from anything windage adjustable, but in this case they might be needed. If this were my rifle I'd look at the DNZ mounts first.
http://swfa.com/DNZ-Game-Reaper-1-Scopemount-P41422.aspx
hardluk1
member
If all you did was pull off the scope caps and set a new scope on them and can't get it to center then its a scope issue. Contact Nikon about a shipping label.
It could well be that your old scope got bent by mounting it to badly aligned rings. That's why people either use Burris Signature Rings (sometimes with the added kit to give you even more control over how the scope is setting) or they use bars designed to test to see if your mounts are straight and if they aren't people lapped them. That's a fairly complicated process and not something a beginner should try on a rifle they really want to work well IMO. Get a gunsmith to do it.
It's not only possible that those rings are bad but sometimes the mount holes are not aligned either. The first thing I would do is try a different set of rings and see if you get the same problem. I've seen good rifles be off pretty far on their drilled holes for mounts. I've shimmed more than one scope too. That's another old school way of doing things that is less complicated than lapping not to mention cheaper because you don't need the tools.
You may want to get a gunsmith or even a gun shop to check what's going on with a bore sight. They can get you straightened out pretty quickly at times.
Nikon scopes are generally high quality. I have 2 and both are excellent.
It's not only possible that those rings are bad but sometimes the mount holes are not aligned either. The first thing I would do is try a different set of rings and see if you get the same problem. I've seen good rifles be off pretty far on their drilled holes for mounts. I've shimmed more than one scope too. That's another old school way of doing things that is less complicated than lapping not to mention cheaper because you don't need the tools.
You may want to get a gunsmith or even a gun shop to check what's going on with a bore sight. They can get you straightened out pretty quickly at times.
Nikon scopes are generally high quality. I have 2 and both are excellent.
When installing a scope, I first set the scope windage and elevation adjustments at mid point. Then I install the scope and use the elevation adjustment on the rear ring to bore sight it (on a Remington 700 or 798, for example, which have this feature).
A shim is sometimes needed under the scope in either the front or rear ring to get the elevation adjusted.
In this way you get the best optical image from your scope. The windage and elevation adjustments should only be used for minor corrections when you sight in your rifle.
I have found that poor accuracy usually results if scope installation isn't done this way. Significant optical distortion sets in the further you get away from the mid point windage or elevation settings.
On rifles that don't have the windage adjustment on the rear ring (Ruger, or rifles that use a Weaver-style base and rings), and there is significant lateral misalignment between the mount and the barrel then you've got trouble.
On these rifles, shims can be installed under the scope to correct vertical misalignment, but shims can't be installed to correct lateral misalignment. I have had to use Burris Pos-align rings with offset inserts to correct lateral misalignment on these rifles.
A shim is sometimes needed under the scope in either the front or rear ring to get the elevation adjusted.
In this way you get the best optical image from your scope. The windage and elevation adjustments should only be used for minor corrections when you sight in your rifle.
I have found that poor accuracy usually results if scope installation isn't done this way. Significant optical distortion sets in the further you get away from the mid point windage or elevation settings.
On rifles that don't have the windage adjustment on the rear ring (Ruger, or rifles that use a Weaver-style base and rings), and there is significant lateral misalignment between the mount and the barrel then you've got trouble.
On these rifles, shims can be installed under the scope to correct vertical misalignment, but shims can't be installed to correct lateral misalignment. I have had to use Burris Pos-align rings with offset inserts to correct lateral misalignment on these rifles.
sansone
Member
quote: john843:
A quick way to recenter your scopes crosshairs is to hold the objective firmly against a stable (wallmounted) mirror with a good light source behind you and simply turn the adj. dials until the reflection of the crosshairs are hidden by the crosshairs themselves. Takes a LOT less dialing.
I can't believe after all these years I read something like this for the first time..Thanks!
A quick way to recenter your scopes crosshairs is to hold the objective firmly against a stable (wallmounted) mirror with a good light source behind you and simply turn the adj. dials until the reflection of the crosshairs are hidden by the crosshairs themselves. Takes a LOT less dialing.
I can't believe after all these years I read something like this for the first time..Thanks!
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