Novice Mauser Build

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Bulletmonkey

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Hi guys I am new here and have never built a bolt action rifle before, but I've been a High Road lurker for a long time over the years. I've been trying to find some specific insight on a number of issues and the difficulty in getting answers really goes to show you the depth of the gunsmithing and machining craft. There are also in other places an unusually negative reaction to what I'm trying to do and I don't quite understand why, but that's another topic.

I am building a Mauser 98 build using an imported factory new Zastava M70 action. My intention is admittedly not original, but to essentially emulate the functions of Kar 98 going as far as to find a gun smith willing to custom build a stripper clip guide (Not the easiest challenge in the world finding someone to do it even when surpassing their suggested price, but that's a problem for later).

I'm currently searching for a barrel and have decided to go with a Lothar Walther. There are a lot of choices, from custom barrel building to drop in Kar98 barrels and my goal is to make the barrel as easy to deal with for the smith as possible. This action is going into a hand-carved sporterized Kar98 stock and Ill either modify the Zastava slide safety to a wing, or modify the stock to accept the Zastava safety, I haven't decided yet.

When it comes time to have the barrel installed, I just want to make things easy for the gunsmith and myself not have to order it or any of that. If I ever manage to find one kind enough and willing to create the stripper clip boss, that will be enough of a headache for him, and it would be cool if the barrel installation is all he needs to do.

Anyway, at the moment my fundamental lack of knowledge on rifles and gunsmithing has me at a bit of a halt. I know my caliber, I know my bore, I know my twist rate for the grain bullet I'm using and I have a seemingly endless list of choices for contours. The problem is choosing the thread.

When I use Lothar's custom barrel builder, I don't know which thread is correct. Since my action is a Mauser 98, one would think I could just get a K98 drop in (this would be convenient since its going into a k98 inlet), right? Possibly, but down at the bottom of the list there is a thread option for a Zastava Modell 70... which technically is my action, but is also a Mauser 98.

Does this mean there is something different about the Zastava M70 action that requires it's own threading, or is it merely something cosmetic and based on Zastava commercial rifle stocks or something? I've inquired to the company themselves but haven't gotten a response yet.

To make things even more confusing, Zastava has a new AK clone they call the M70.... is the threading option simply referring to one of those?

If anyone can help me navigate this I would sincerely appreciate it. Before anyone suggests I just get a Kar 98 action, I don't want the displeasure of searching for a 70 year old receiver that isn't rusted, pitted, nor do I want to tear it apart anyway.

I do realize my rifle wont be worth what I put in, but the value is based on my functions, not what it would go for on Gunbroker. This rifle is for me to enjoy and never sell.

I greatly appreciate any insight anyone might have.
 

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Is this action already threaded? If so, it doesn't take much to measure the thread with the proper tools (even if borrowed). Almost every library will have the "Machinery's Handbook" in their reference section to help "fill-in" whatever might be tough to measure. Then it will be easy to choose the barrel thread. If the action is not already threaded, then you can choose the thread right at the beginning.
 
Wow, it didn't even dawn on me that an action might not come threaded. I'm actually still waiting on it to be delivered. I just presumed actions had specific threads when they are produced. If it isn't threaded, then would I have more choices for barrel options?
 
First, I never heard of an action coming in unthreaded, nothing to worry about there. Uber precise match rifle builders have been known to true up the threads and have to thread the barrel to match, but I gather you are not going that way.

I found one gun board post to say the Zastava was threaded the same as a real Mauser. Why Lothar Walther has a separate entry for it, I don't know.

And you don't need to know, let the gunsmith handle it. It does not sound like you are knowledgeable enough to be making detail picks on a rifle build.
 
First, I never heard of an action coming in unthreaded, nothing to worry about there. Uber precise match rifle builders have been known to true up the threads and have to thread the barrel to match, but I gather you are not going that way.

I found one gun board post to say the Zastava was threaded the same as a real Mauser. Why Lothar Walther has a separate entry for it, I don't know.

And you don't need to know, let the gunsmith handle it. It does not sound like you are knowledgeable enough to be making detail picks on a rifle build.

Thank you for the insight Jim, and no you are absolutely correct; there are some fundamental features that I want in regard to my build but I have never been exposed to a lot of the actual technical side of fire arms and ballistic machining. I'm just trying to make the build stream-lined and get everything done in a reasonably timely manner.

I'm no bench shooter, I'm a hunter, but I just didn't want to be back and forth to a gunsmith more than enough times to get all the work done, so I figured if I had the components I needed based on a certain formula it would save time. I am used to AK's, SKS, hand-guns and shotguns. I have shot long-rifles on and off but not nearly enough to have the insight to build one without help. I just wanted to have the action, the bolt and the stock and bring it all as a package.
 
What is that walther barrel costing. You can probably send it into Shaw cheaper. Forget what mcgowen charge for there service. Think Douglas is $500.

Well that's just it, there are a ton of choices. Some are more expensive than others but I'm just a little bit overwhelmed with making sure there are no compatibility issues between the action, the barrel and the stock. Depending on the route I take, it could cost me 245, 380, or even around 500. The reason I am choosing a Walther is because from what I have read it is among the hardest barrels that can be acquired, and it will last a bit longer. I plan on firing this gun until my eyes hurt and my shoulder implodes, that's one reason why I didn't just go with a surplus action.

I have every characteristic worked out except the thread on their website, and since there are no returns I want to avoid a stupid mistake. I have read the same as Jim that the Mauser 98 threading is universal for all large ring Mauser 98s, but the fact that Walther has Mauser 98, Zastava Model 70, Winchester Model 70, and a few other 98 variants as thread choices is making me think there are some type of difference that I need to know. I can't find information on this specifically anywhere. There isn't even a spec sheet or piece of information regarding my own action anywhere online that I have been able to find via Google. It's actually really bizarre.

I suspect that its because of my lack of gunsmithing insight in that I likely don't know the correct terms of what I'm looking for.
 
Ahh, I thought I read somewhere that a pre 64 had a crf and a few other things that were similar. I wish so many guns didnt have the same acronyms.
 
Thank you very much for the info guys, I did send the factory a message just now and hopefully they will reply soon. One thing I really like about having a custom barrel made is that you can have a lot of the typical work done then and there, and this makes the risk and stress involved with finding a quality gunsmith a little easier to stomach by removing some of the interactions. Don't get me wrong, I know the value of a great gunsmith, and I have nothing but respect for the craft but I have moved and no longer have access to some great smiths. Shipping is risky, especially these days as I have already eaten a loss of one C&R project to which the shipping service basically said "oh well, here is a $100 insurance credit for a $600 loss that you put a great deal of money and time into", despite the fact that selected the extra insurance with the gunsmith-electro-plater (who shall not be named) and they just apologetically didn't bother to implement it.

Sadly I have come to a place where dealing with a gunsmith, their often inaccurately long lead times, lack of follow-through and communication + shipping risks and copious amounts of waiting stir up nothing but extreme anxiety in me, so ordering this barrel exactly the way I want it is very beneficial to me. Then I can take it for an installation, bedding, something less risky as I explore and put the time into getting to know the local smiths here in Louisville. Everything I have said doesn't apply to good smiths, so anyone that is a gunsmith and is lurking try not to be offended. There are partially or fully incompetent people in every craft and institution.

Anyhow, enough bitching. I have another question one of you guys might not mind helping with. In regard to barrel threading the business end for a muzzle device. I'm putting a simple flash suppressor on the end of this barrel. Observe this photo of a SilencerCo Specwar 762 Trifecta Flash Hider.

The thread size is 5/8X24, which I think is a common thread size for .30 devices. The problem is, on the Lothar Walther web site among its custom muzzle-threading choices, they have 2 versions of this; each one with some third variable (length, or thread angle maybe) that the muzzle device doesn't list anywhere on any website that I have been able to find.

Choice 1. thread 5/8"-24 L=0,75"
Choice 2. thread 5/8"-24 L=0,63"

What kind of machinist's sorcery is this?
 

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I believe thats length of shank from the shoulder to the tip. Id go measure my guns, but i believe most are .75

I do have a brake on my .300 that NEEDS to sit agains the shoulder, but dosent and that maybe a .63 or what ever depth device.
 
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