Now what - stripped allen screws

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GunGoBoom

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Dangit to heck. I just bought a Savage 110, and it had weaver-style 2-piece bases on it. I have turn-in ring bases that I want to swap out. Front weaver base came off but rear one is stuck. I heated up the rear with a camp lighter, hoping to loosen any loctite, but still managed to turn the hex into a hole (almost) since the allen wrench slipped through. Only good news is that is appears that the wrench deformed a tad more than the inner screw surfaces, meaning that there is SOME semblance of hex left. How in THE hell do I get these off now? (stupid non-torx screws :cuss: ).
 
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A right sized easy-out should solve your problem. You might have to drill a bit deeper into the offending screw or even grind off the tip of the easy-out to get it fitting right.
 
Chawbaccer's method is the one I have used with success. That, incidentally, is the reason I don't like Allen screws. Torx head is much better, but I prefer plain old slot head over Allen.

Jim
 
Don't tell anyone else,;) one of my little tricks of the trade I need to mail in to a contest sometime!
Try a used worn torx bit and see if you can drive it into the hole.If the head of the screw isn't hardened,it may deform to make it into a Torx.The taper on a worn bit seems to work better than a brand new one,sort of like a taper on a broach.

I have to do this all the time with allen headed pipe plugs in engine blocks.
 
I too tap a Torx bit in when an allen screw is damaged. It works better than anything else you can do from my experience.
 
My thoughts are to dip the allen wrench into a bid of Red Locktite, and secure it to the screw. Let it dry 24 hours, and then Proceed to unscrew the screw.

(Or use JBweld, like a post above me stated. ( I should learn to read all posts first)
 
Hi, HSMITH and GAmachinist,

I think that might work, as long as the screw is someplace you can pound on it (a scope ring with a scope in it is not the best place for hammering on), but I was using easy outs long before there was such a thing as a Torx screw.

Jim
 
Jim, little taps for a long time will get you all the way to the house without beating something to death. I've had to do it on scopes for people, after they have had their turn. Never any damage to anything but someones ego. At work I have had to do the same thing on super precision glass scales capable of measuring distances accurately past 3 digits right of the decimal in metric scale, well into the sub one ten thousandth of an inch accuracy......

EZ outs have royally screwed me (or helped me screw myself quite well) a couple times, spreading the heads on screws where the OD of the head bites into the countersink in addition to the threads. THEN you are in for some fun getting it out without damaging the workpiece.

I spin anywhere from a couple to a couple hundred socket head screws a week, the machinery I work on is almost exclusively built with them. The only thing I have found that I like better than Torx bits on occasion are the EZ-outs with the drill bit in the end, drill down in a reverse rotation and the threaded sleeve bites the head. Sorry but I can't remember the name of them. They work great IF you have room to use them AND you have a drill with enough power to break the screw loose.

I guess I am out on the end of the scale compared to most when it comes to wrenching, I work on ultraprecision assemblies and systems, where .001" is a mile. Sometimes I take it well past where I need to when working on cars or things like that, but at least it is done right.
 
"...stupid non-torx screws..." Torx screws are a curse foisted on the world by car makers.
"...there is SOME semblance of hex left..." Use a bigger allen wrench/key. Or drill it out.
 
I've also used a metric allen wrench of the next size up from the standard allen wrench you used originally. Just tap it in lightly with a small hammer. It may work especially if there's still a hex left in the screw. Good luck.
 
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