Ok, first blackpowder shoot

[HeedJSU]

I am borrowing my father's old Thompson Hawken .50 cal this weekend to take it for my first blackpowder shoot. (I can see myself getting addicted to this, arrgh :banghead: ) My problem is (and take pity on me, guys) My father hasn't shot this rifle in about 10 years, and doesn't remember much about what he used with it...age takes its toll. I don't know anything about blackpowder (other than it uses caps, blackpowder, and a projectile... )

I am going to the range with a gentleman who does shoot blackpowder very frequently, but I need to know what to buy as far as powders (pyrodex, pellets, ect) projectiles and the like so I can be prepared with the things that I need. We're just going to have a good time, and will more than likely take some other firearms, but be spending most of the time with the two blackpowders (his and my own)

Any input would be greatly appreciated.


Justin

 

[Steve499]

It generally takes some experimentation to get the best accuracy from a rifle, so this may or may not be the most accurate load for your particular one, but it'll shoot.

.490 round balls
.010 or .015 patching material
FFg black powder ( or Pyrodex, Triple 7, American Pioneer or other BP sub.)
Powder measure of some sort. I'd start with 60 grains.
Percussion caps (probably #11s but that's dependent on the individual nipple)
Cleaning patches

The above is all you have to have. If you buy pre-cut, pre lubed patches you won't need a knife to cut them or lube for them. If you go with pillow ticking from Wal-Mart, you will need both.
A short starter is really nice but not essential.

Have fun and let us know how it went.

Steve

 

[O.S.O.K.]

a couple more things

Steve has a good list there.

Please add some TC Bore butter though - you will want that for clean-up and maybe to add a little lube to the patches if the fouling is hard.

Also, I recommend the Goex ffg powder over the subsititutes. Places like Cabelas, Bass Pro Shops and the bigger sporting goods places will stock real black powder. If you end-up with Pyrodex or 777, then I recommend magnum caps - #11's are proper. I use CCI but Remington are fine too.

Cleaning jag for 50 caliber if you don't have one, bronze brush, cleaning patches.

Also bring a paper clip - bent open, it makes a good nipple pick to clean that out during shooting.

Here is a good procedure to follow before, during and after your shoot:

Before:
Place your rifle's hammer in half cock and remove the key from the stock/barrel, and lift the barrel out lifting the front.

Get some hot water in a bucket with just a squirt of dish soap - place the breech end of the barrel down into the hot water and a patch on the cleaning jag and work the jag up and down the barrel, sucking water in and out of the nipple - do that 20 or 30 times to get it good and clean.

Repeat in a bucket of hot clean water.

Blow the water out of the barrel throught the nipple and use dry patches to get the water out. You might use a little rubbing alcohol to help dry the breech area - just pour a bit into the barrel and blow it out and then dry.

Once dry, apply some TC bore butter to a cleaning patch and run back and forth in the bore until fully coated - 10 pumps should do it - then use the same patch and whipe down the outside of the barrel and around the breech, nipple/hammer area. Don't goop up the nipple though. Reinstall the barrel.

This is also the "after the shooting" cleaning procedure and only needs to be done afterwards from now on. You want to do it before this time because the rifle hasn't been shot in a long time...

At the Range:

Place a cap on the nipple and bust it with the muzzle pointed at some grass or something that will show movement if the flame is getting through - this ensures that your first loaded shot will be good.

Mantra: "powder patch and ball, or there'll be no smoke at all" - repeat that every time you load to prevent putting a patch and ball in without powder - don't laugh - it happens to practically everybody. If it does, you buddy probably has a ball puller which is a little screw jag - but its a hassle.

Measure your powder - 60 grains is a fine starting point - tap the measure and top-off and do that the same every time you load. Place the patch and ball in the muzzle and holding your ram rod short (choke down) start the ball - keep your hands no further than 12" from the muzzle to avoid snapping the ram rod - again, it happens if you let it bend too much. Push the ball all the way down and firmly seat the ball over the powder- you dont' want any gap in there as that can cause a pressure spike and acutally burst or balloon your barrel! This gets harder as the fouling builds up.

OK- you're ready to shoot.

You should be able to shoot 3 rounds at a time without whipping the bore, but between your 3 shot groups, use a cleaning patch and some spit (put it in your mouth and moisten) or some black powder solvent, whipe the bore once and then with a dry patch - that just cleans out most of the fouling.

After the shooting:

Once you're done shooting - do the bore whipe again but this time use two or three solvent patches and dry thoroughly and then finish with some bore butter on a patch. This will keep everything good until you can clean better - within a day.

Cleaning is just as described in the before the shooting - just be sure to thoroughly coat the bore with the bore butter.

Now, some people will say to use gun oil or break free, etc. at the end - I agree if you are going to store it for some time. If you plan on shooting agian next week, the bore butter is fine - just make dang sure that it's dry before the bore butter goes on - it is a rust inhibitor but doesn't displace water like oil.

If you do use oil, then you need to clean it out thoroughly before shooting the next time as the oil can cause you all kinds of problems with ingnition and fouling.

Not as bad as it sounds-

Have fun!!