Old Ruger Gp100 PPC build resurrection.

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plinker4life

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First post here on THR. Long time gun enthusiast. I really like rimfire but also into anything interesting. I I traded a custom 10/22 for this 1986 GP100 .357 that was built for PPC competitions. I don't know who built the barrel but it does have the Mascot sight rail. The previous owner thought it would be a good idea to sand all the bluing off. I am a sucker for projects so we made a trade, and this is what I am left with. Ran 24 round's through it in the back yard and it shot great and functioned nice and smooth " he still came out on the good end of the trade due to killing the finish " so now I am on to the cosmetics. I have some Van's blue on the way. Looking forward to stopping the corrosion and having a good target pistol.

If you guys have a better method of protecting this pistol let me know, I am not interested in Duracoat or Cerakote. Looking like Vans gun blue is the best home remedy for a protective finish.
 

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Welcome to THR... I'll be watching, too. I'm no expert on a protective finish. I would have recommended "Cerakote" but you're not interested; but that's probably what I would have looked at based on a couple buddies who have had that done and it impressed me. Or else a professionally done matte blue, because if I did it then it would probably look pretty "amateur" LOL.. That's such a neat Ruger that it deserves a beautiful finish.
 
plinker4life

Interesting undertaking as I have never seen a GP100 set-up for PPC competition either. If it were mine, once I got it up and running I would probably ship it off to Ron Mahovsky at Metalife and have it hard chrome plated. I have a Beretta Model 70S that I had Metalifed over 35 years ago and it still looks as good as the day I got it back from them.

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Have it refinished with Cerekote. I had a S&W in rough shape and the Cerekote finish really came out nicely
 
That is awesome, you can always put together another custom 10/22 but that's a unicorn. Looking forward to following this thread!
 
The obvious pitting will not be corrected, or hidden, by any home bluing job, unless it was by a gunsmith who has the machines to remove the pitting (mechanical removal). The coatings previously mentioned are thick enough to hide pitting. A firm doing hard chrome would also mechanically remove the pitting. Do you have the equipment at home to get the steel down to the "white"?
 
All I have is elbow grease. Lol..... I checked out the Metalife site. No answer on the phone #. I wouldnt mind spending <200$ On a refinishing in hard chrome but really do not trust shipping a gun somewhere that does not answer the phone. Other place I found is APW Cogan but that is gonna hit the $300 mark.

So on a side question. What method does a individual have on shipping a pistol to to a gunsmith? I think USPS is out of the question unless done through a FFL.
 
All I have is elbow grease. Lol..... I checked out the Metalife site. No answer on the phone #. I wouldnt mind spending <200$ On a refinishing in hard chrome but really do not trust shipping a gun somewhere that does not answer the phone.

Did you leave a voice mail?

Some gunsmiths will only answer the phone and emails during certain times of the day. That way they can get their work done without interruptions.
 
I'd be hesitant to spend $300 on that gun, but if it's what you want I guess that's all that matters. Getting rid of the current rust and then cleaning it after being handled should be sufficient to keep the rust away unless you live near the ocean. I'm glad it's a good shooter because that is one ugly looking GP100.

If it were mine I'd sand it down a little and just keep it well oiled. I don't know anything about Van's blue, but typically any cold blue/ home blue process is meant for small touch up spots. Usually applications to large surfaces result in a uneven and splotchy appearance.
 
That is an impressive barrel, feeling a bit inadequate in comparison
 
Welcome aboard. Going after large areas with cold blue will usually get an uneven finish.Try heating up the metal with a heat gun some. About what you can hold without dropping it will be good.Then apply the cold blue with applicators. Dipping them back into the container often will cause problems with the rest of the solution as well. Also degrease well and use gloves to keep contaminants off of it. Let us know how it turns out.
 
I'm not a fussy guy. I got a Single Six a couple of years ago with damaged/worn blueing on the barrel. I sanded it a little with some super-fine sandpaper and applied some cold blue as per the instructions on the bottle. Yeah, it's a little splotchy, but I shoot it fairly often and the finish is still on there. The total cost was about ten bucks. I'm satisfied with the results. It's not the prettiest gun in the safe, but it's rust-free and goes bang every time.

Here's the "before" picture. As you can see, it was also missing the little button that you push in to remove the cylinder pin. That and the damaged finish are why I was able to get it for $120-something.


Here's the "after" picture. The little parts (button and spring) cost about ten dollars, as did the bottle of cold blue. It's a good shooter. I'm glad no one else was willing to invest the 30 minutes or so that it took me to "restore" it.
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I’m not really concerned much with pretty. Just functionable finish, the gun will be used and not a safe queen. I had already planned on heating. I will likely use dip method. I am going to try the cylinder first to test. Standby .... hope to test it out this coming Wednesday.
 
Here we go.....Did not work too bad, I wish I would have ordered a big bottle and submerged the entire gun. Finish is not perfect or even but looks like black case coloring. I started with the cylinder and noticed it worked great when I submerged it into the cup of solution. So I submerged all the smaller parts other than frame and sight rail. I placed the frame and sight rail into a gallon zip lock bag poured all the solution I had left in the bag sealed it off and sloshed it all around.

All parts then removed from the solution and tossed into a pan full of 10-40 motor oil.

Thing's learned After I scrubbed everything with acetone I laid on a cookie sheet I had covered with aluminum foil. then put in the oven until they reached 120 degrees. I then went directly to the Van's Blue out of the oven. I think I should have cleaned once more real quick while parts were warm. Then make sure you have enough Solution to submerge the entire gun at once.

It does appear to be a functional finish which is all I was after. Only time will tell.
 

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