Old S&W Model 15 - bad trigger job?

[bouis]

It's actually a pre-model 15, but the same gun basically. Supposed to be early 50's manufacture. The model 15 is a K-Frame, double action with a 4" barrel -- a lot like a Model 10 with adjustable sights. Got it from a guy on gunbroker.

The double action pull is good, smooth and feels crisp. It's.. I dunno, 8lbs or so.

But the single action trigger worries me. It's very, very light; but if you pull it with a light finger, it snaps forward and the hammer falls without striking. The hammer when locked back can be pushed forward and made to fall. The thing is, sometimes when it's cocked back it locks solidly enough not to be budged with moderate pressure, such as when I checked it at the FFL before I signed for it. Damnit.

Now I've already transfered it to my name but the auction has the standard "3 day inspection." Naturally I'm weary of returning it because of the expense and difficulty of getting my money back.

One of the screws has a slight mark on it but all the others look untouched.

So my question is whether this can be a result of normal wear or if it's a result of a bad trigger job, and how difficult would it be for me to repair? Are the parts easily available and how much do they cost? I have pretty good dexterity and plenty of mechanical experience, along with a decent set of tools and screwdrivers. But, I don't have much with firearms.

There are no gunsmiths in the local yellowpages and I live in the country so it's hard to take it to a professional.

Thanks!

 

[Jim Watson]

Push-off is a very bad sign. Hammer and trigger probably ruined or worn out. Pre 1957 parts availability is not great. Installation is not a DIY for ME.

Ask at
http://smith-wessonforum.com/groupee/forums
There is a lot of know-how there.

Call the maker
1-800-331-0852

 

[XavierBreath]

I think the big question is how much you have invested in the revolver right now.

I have successfully swapped lockworks between revolvers. If you could find another K frame revolver such as a Model 10 to swap the complete trigger, and complete hammer assemblies out of, you will be in business. Unless I am mistaken ( not unlikely) the "pre-15" K38 Combat Masterpiece also uses a short throw lockwork, like the Model 10. If your's does not, simply look for a M&P instead. If you find the right beater gun, you might even be able to recoup your losses by selling the cylinder, barrel, and grips separately on ebay.

Occasionally you will find the lockwork parts for sale on ebay or at a gun show. The trick is to buy a matched trigger/hammer set. That is exactly what I did with this Model 67-1. I paid roughly $50 for a unused hammer and trigger for it. I did have to retain my original DA sear to make all the parts work correctly, but once fitted, it became a very nice and safe trigger.

I highly recommend Jerry Kuhnhausen's S&W Shop Manual prior to turning the first screw.

 

[Coronach]

Caveat: Possibly Stupid Suggestion

Heed the warning above; I'm hypothesizing out loud here, and I'm not a gunsmith. But, here goes:

How important is SA to you? If the DA pull is good, would you consider using this gun as a DAO? A little bit of file work could remove the SA notch completely, unless I'm misunderstanding the mechanics or the problem. Doing so would not seem to destroy any collector's value, as the SA notch seems to be messed up already.

The caveat is because I might very well be misunderstanding the mechanics, or the problem. An actual gunsmith should diagnose the problem in order to determine if the gun would be safe and reliable (two absolute "musts") in such a configuration.

Just a thought...if you're willing to forego SA, this gun might be a very good, economical piece for you.

Mike

 

[SaxonPig]

It sounds like someone tried some home gunsmithing and removed too much from the sear. I think a smith can restore it but it will cost a few bucks. If you like the gun (I love mine) it might be worth having it repaired. Ask the seller to pay for 1/2 rather than return the gun. He should have known about this problem and mentioned it in the auction listing.

An alternative would be replacing the hammer. This is usually the part that gets excessively filed on these botched jobs. I had a M19 with the same trouble and I found a hammer on ebay for $10 and it dropped right in and worked great. I have had about 95% success in swapping S&W parts.

I think the gun can be saved and is worth doing it. Like I said, have a smith look at it for an estimate and ask seller to pay half. My 2 cents.

 

[HSMITH]

Have you pulled the sideplate and cleaned it out well?

Could just be old dried oil caked up on everything, seen it before more than one time.

 

[bouis]

I heard from the guy; he says he'll take it back. He's being real good about it so I guess that's that. I like the gun but I don't want it enough to try to fix it if I could get a good one without the trouble. I don't want to try to take the sideplate off if I'm sending it back.

The age was certainly a bonus (I've never had a Smith this old), but I really bought it for a more pragmatic purpose -- not so much self-defense as a big kit gun. My S&W Model 14 (the 6" K-38, SAO) is by far my favorite handgun but it's not well suited to life under the seat of a pickup. Plus, it's too pretty.

I do like the Model 15 and I'm going to try to get another, newer one. Hopefully I'll have more luck.

 

[Powderman]

Before you send it back...

you can send it to Smith and Wesson, and they will fix it for you.

It seems that a lot of folks don't realize the most important thing to remember about Smith and Wessons--to do a trigger job, you should NOT file or remove ANY metal from the trigger shelf, the sear, the sear notch on the hammer, or the DA cam on the trigger. The heat treatment is there, but it's so thin that you can ruin it easily. This is what has happened with your gun, and no amount of work will make it right again.

So, if you want, you can send it to S&W, and they will make it right for you.

 

[XavierBreath]

Glad to hear the seller is being a stand up guy!

 

[Nhsport]

It is not clear if you got this gun from a dealer or a private sale but it is a great thing that the person is "stand up" and has offered to take it back. Before takeing it back I would make arraingements to do a heavy duty cleaning job to insure the cause isn't just caked old grease.
If the cleaning doesn't work I would contact S&W and see what they could do for you. The S&W repair shop has a great rep for being very helpfull.The K frame is a delight to shoot and if you can wind up with a gun with like new lock works (what you will get from S&W) you will never wear it out in your lifetime with proper handloads or regular factory loads. If you send it to S&W it will come back with fairly stiff factory springs but a nice trigger pull. If you then replace the springs with a wolf spring kit ($15+-)you will have a wonderfull trigger pull. A K-frame with a wonderfull trigger pull is a total joy to shoot and own,this should not be passed up. Of course there are lots of K frames out there- It doesn't have to be this one. Good luck

 

[Old Fuff]

Smith & Wesson's may (or may not) be able to repair this revolver - it depends on what parts are needed, and if they still have them. But keep in mind that this would not be a warrantee job because the problem(s) are not related to defective workmanship or materials on the part of S&W.

If a new hammer, trigger, and related springs were required the cost, with labor, could easily be in the $200.00 neighborhood or even more.

I would send this one back to the seller, and let him pay to get it fixed.