Old school 38 special

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Antihero

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I'm thinking of picking up an old school 4 inch barrelled 38 special ala model 10

Looks like the days of sub $200 model 10s is done, although they aren't too spendy. Anything else I should look around for a bargain in the 4 inch, simple, wood gripped service 38s? Security Six seem to jumped in value a lot too or it would be on the list too.

Plus p would be nice as well
 
I think a model 10 is the way to go.
I also can find model 64s for under $400. They are the model 10 in stainless steel.

Based on past experiences I stay away from Charter, Taurus, Rossi and Armscor. Oh and Llama. But, some people have had some luck with these brands.

Good luck on your hunt. Be sure to share what you decide/find.
 
I have had positive experiences with Taurus revolvers. Their models 80 and 82 are a sort of heavy barreled 6 shot 38 special that has a frame size just a hair bigger than a model 10. And they don't have the flat spot on the bottom of the barrel extension that worry so many shooters.

But the model 10 or the older M&P name are just darn good guns. Aim surplus did have a stock of them a couple of weeks ago that were imports from someplace but I don't remember where. The grips were a little beat up but most change out the grips anyway.
 
And they don't have the flat spot on the bottom of the barrel extension that worry so many shooters.

Howdy

The flat spot at the bottom of the forcing cone is not a problem with a 38 Special. It has been there since 1905 (the Model of 1899 did not have it). Actually I'm not sure about the 1902 Model. The flat cut to clear the gas ring on the cylinder only became a problem when the 357 Combat Magnum came along in 1955 and light 357 bullets started splitting forcing cones. It has never to my knowledge been a problem with standard 38 Special ammunition.

Here is the flat on the underside of an old 38 Military & Police from 1939. As can be seen, the flat makes the metal of the forcing cone slightly thinner at the bottom.

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Here is the flat on the forcing cone of a K-38 from the late 1940s.

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Here is the flat on the bottom of the forcing cone of my Model 19-3 from 1975. Yes, the size of the flat did vary over the years.

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Just for fun, here is the forcing cone of a Model of 1899. Yes, it is a little bit cruddy, but the design of the gas ring was a little bit different and there was no clearance cut needed.

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Anyway, the flat on the underside of a K frame S&W revolver has never been a problem with standard 38 Special ammunition. Did I say that already?



Hey, I'm a dyed in the wool Smith and Wesson guy, and I figure you can never have too many Model 10s or it's predecessor the 38 Military and Police. I picked up the Model 10-5 at the bottom of this photo for $125. Best deal I ever got on a S&W revolver. Of course that was close to 20 years ago, I think prices have gone up a bit since then. My records say the 4" 38 M&P above it left the factory in 1939. No I don't remember how much I paid for it, but it was probably more than $125. Notice the different hammer and front sight shapes on the two revolvers. Both are typical of their time frame. Oh yeah, notice the 38 M&P is a five screw, one screw is hiding under the upper corner of the grip, the other one is peeking out in front of the trigger guard. The Model 10 is a Three screw. No screw up near the hammer and no screw in front of the trigger guard. I think this Model 10 left the factory around 1964 or so.

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Anyway, you can never have too many K frame 38s. I still need to find a Model 10 with a 6" tapered barrel.


And you can't hurt the forcing cone shooting standard 38 Specials through one.

Did I say that already?
 
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By ALL means get a S&W Model 10. I have two, and a Model 15 Combat Masterpiece, and have decided to buy three more for my two daughters and my daughter-in-law.

Mine are a -5 and a -7, with the -7 being a police turn in. Both are so easy to shoot and far more accurate than I expected. I shoot the 10-7 more just because it's worn grips feel more "right" to me, but the 10-5, which is better condition, shoots just as well.

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Watch Gunbroker as there are always lots of used Model 10's on there and it's nothing to buy one for under $300, $250 isn't at all out of the question and occasionally one will slip through the cracks for a little over $200.

Today I grabbed three .38's, the wife's 2" Charter Arms, a 3" Rossi 68, the Model 10-7, the plastic bin of loaded .38's that was hanging off the Dillon 550, and the wife, and took her to my 25 yd. range for a handgun refresher. We burned through about 100 rounds in no time and by the time we were finished she was hammering the steel silhouette at 25 yds and the Model 10 was her favorite.

35W
 
My 10-6 is likely the all around best firearm I own. It is not the prettiest by a long shot, or most accurate, or most powerful, but it is a purpose built tool, and it is nearly perfect for that job... it just needs to be a 3” instead of 4”.
 
Agreed with a Model 10 or 64 if you're fine with a .38 Special only (vs a 38/357). Got my first last year, and I'm already sold. They are just about the ideal 38 revolver.

64s will be more expensive, but the good thing is you can repair any cosmetic damage on a used one in a few minutes. Bluing damage on a Model 10 won't clean up as easily. Just food for thought.
 
Driftwood the flat spot doesn’t worry you or me. But I’ve seen it mentioned by others even on the 38 Special. I started out my reloading career with a model 19 and shot every hot 357 load I had powder for in the Speer #10 reloading manual and never did a bit of damage to that gun. So I’m a hard sell on any K frame being weak. If anybody was going to break one it would have been me.

But you never know what some will worry over.
 
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Just check the barrel and cylinder for pitting, and check the timing.This video shows how to check timing.



M10 were commonly carried by security guards who never shot the things. Mine had a fair amount of finish wear when I bought it used, and I think it was a security guard gun. The ejector wear is due to me, this pistol is wonderfully accurate and I probably shot more rounds through it than any other.

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local gun store had a sale on Georgia Department of Corrections M64 turn in's. Maybe you remember this one from your last trip to Atlanta.

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Model 10 is the only revolver I own. I keep my eyes out for others, just to keep the one I have company although, now that I have one I find myself a little picky about the quality of ones I look at adding. They cost less than the .357 smiths and - well, IMHO loaded with +P defense rounds, it will get the job done, with mouse fart hand loads, just fun to shoot at targets.
 
Nothing beats a K frame Smith. But I have had good luck with some Taurus revolvers, one in 44 special and one in 357 mag. They were bought used and I could test them before buying and they match my Model 10 for accuracy.

Having said that, if I got a chance at a decent price on a Model 10 or 64, I'd go for it. BTW, my Model 10 looks like crap from holster wear but is mechanically fine.

Jeff
 
With the prices of Model 10s constantly rising, you can spend a little more and pick up a lightly used Model 15 (with the adjustable sights). I still see them for less than the old Ruger Security/Speed Sixes.

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Model 15s are fantastic guns. All the good of a model 10 with the added benefit of adjustable sights. Mine has been loaded and ready to go for a HD gun for at least 25 years. Mine was a Ft Worth PD turn in my uncle the cop got for me. It cost $200. I wish I could find a couple more for that price.
 
Howdy Again

I see a lot more Model 10s and 38 M&Ps than I do Model 15s where I usually hang out.

I did manage to pick up this S&W K-38 Combat Masterpiece a few years ago. This was the precursor to the Model 15. Notice it is a five screw revolver, with the 'speed hammer'. It shipped in 1953, four years before this model became the Model 15. To tell you the truth though, I don't put much store in adjustable sights on a revolver. I have been shooting single action revolvers without adjustable sights for a long time. My experience with adjustable sights is I never adjust them for different loads. I set them once for what ever load and distance I am shooting, and then rely on Kentucky windage and elevation if I am shooting a different load or at a different distance. Really, be honest. How many guys bring a screw driver to the range to adjust the sights all the time? Next time you buy a used revolver with adjustable sights, take a look at the rear sight before you adjust it. I'll bet you a donut it will be set a little bit to the right. The previous owner probably adjusted it to the right to make up for bad trigger technique which was causing him to push his shots to the left. If he was a righty anyway.

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I think a model 10 is the way to go.
I also can find model 64s for under $400. They are the model 10 in stainless steel.

Based on past experiences I stay away from Charter, Taurus, Rossi and Armscor. Oh and Llama. But, some people have had some luck with these brands.

Good luck on your hunt. Be sure to share what you decide/find.
As long as the Charter Arms revolver says Bridgeport or Stratford on the barrel, it's good quality. They can be found for sub $300 and they made some configurations with 4 inch barrels.
 
Howdy Again

I see a lot more Model 10s and 38 M&Ps than I do Model 15s where I usually hang out.

I did manage to pick up this S&W K-38 Combat Masterpiece a few years ago. This was the precursor to the Model 15. Notice it is a five screw revolver, with the 'speed hammer'. It shipped in 1953, four years before this model became the Model 15. To tell you the truth though, I don't put much store in adjustable sights on a revolver. I have been shooting single action revolvers without adjustable sights for a long time. My experience with adjustable sights is I never adjust them for different loads. I set them once for what ever load and distance I am shooting, and then rely on Kentucky windage and elevation if I am shooting a different load or at a different distance. Really, be honest. How many guys bring a screw driver to the range to adjust the sights all the time? Next time you buy a used revolver with adjustable sights, take a look at the rear sight before you adjust it. I'll bet you a donut it will be set a little bit to the right. The previous owner probably adjusted it to the right to make up for bad trigger technique which was causing him to push his shots to the left. If he was a righty anyway.

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I noticed this with a Ruger Blackhawk 357 I got. First time out, it was shooting way high and right... I'm right handed. At 25 yards I had to hold probably 18" low and 12" left. Somebody probably sold it because "the gun was inaccurate" :evil: How you jerk a SA trigger that bad idk.

Got her sighted in and it's been smooth sailing ever since. I leave all my pistols with adjustable sights alone as soon as I figure them out for one load. I just hate sighting them in honestly.
 
Really, be honest. How many guys bring a screw driver to the range to adjust the sights all the time? Next time you buy a used revolver with adjustable sights, take a look at the rear sight before you adjust it. I'll bet you a donut it will be set a little bit to the right. The previous owner probably adjusted it to the right to make up for bad trigger technique which was causing him to push his shots to the left. If he was a righty anyway.


Someone does not have a screwdriver on them at all times! EEK! :eek: How do they manage to survive? :uhoh:

I carried this for more than a decade, used the heck out of the screwdrivers

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Then leatherman multi tools came out, and this is what is on my belt at the range.

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This is on my belt when I am not at the range. I purchased this one in 1996 at the Lakewood Center Mall, Lakewood CA.

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I cannot imagine going to the range without a multi tool. I have turned so many screws and cleared many jams. Last week, needed the pliers to clear a feeding jam in a pre 64 M70. Who would have thought a round would jam in a bolt gun? Grabbed the rim and pulled back. The smart AR15 shooter carries a multi tool, because when a bullet jams between the gas tube and upper, you can’t reach it with your fingers. I have cleared a number of these jams for myself, and others.

I always have the tools necessary to adjust rear sights because, point of impact changes, based on me. Some days, my flinch is different. I agree, bad trigger technique, and some day, centuries from now, I will get better. ;) A click or two in one direction and I am back in the center. A fixed sight gun that shoots to point of impact is a joy! Most of them shoot left for me, and I hate holding off, such as what I was doing with the Georgia Jailhouse gun

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I have trained my brain to pull the trigger when everything is centered, and making it jump a groove to hold off is difficult for an old player, scratches the record and is hard on the needle.
 
I think the Model 10 is "the" revolver. A gun man should have one. We can argue about Taurus and Charter and whatever, but...
 
While the days of the super-cheap, former police revolvers may be over, there are still plenty of deals to be had on used S&W K-frames, especially the .38 Special models. For the life of me, I can't understand why Model 10s go for so close to the price of a clean Model 15 these days. Seriously? Yes, I too love the elegant lines of a pencil-barrel Model 10 or M&P, but when another $50-100 will get you one of these, why wouldn't you splurge?

Model 15, no longer in my possession though I do know where it resides:

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Combat Masterpiece:

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If you can find a decent price, a Ruger -Six series revolver is also a decent choice, though somewhat lacking in refinement and a certain *something* that S&W or Colt seem to have that Ruger can't duplicate. There are also various Colts out there that would fit the bill, so long as you understand how to check them for timing (and they're different than checking a S&W or Ruger!!) and know their weak spots. Admittedly, I kind of have my eyes open for a nice Colt Police Positive, Police Positive Special, Officer's Model or Official Police to add to my accumulation at some point. But that's a story for another thread!
 
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