Older Marlin 60

Not open for further replies.
I've got a Glenfield Model 60 with the "squirrel stock". It's a fun plinker and accurate enough for that duty. I'm sure with a scope, it would live up to its reputation of a good shooter.
i've got one of the 17+1 glenfield squirrel stocks. '74 or '76 model, i can't remember off the top of my head. it was in very bad shape when i got it. someone had taken a can of spray paint to everything except the stock. under that was some fairly heavy pitting. i stripped it all down, cleaned out years and years worth of gunk, and had a friend of mine duracoat it. i got it back together, put on a set of tech sights, and was pleasantly surprised by respectable groups at 25 yds. fun plinking rifle. mine does good with any decent high velocity ammo like minimags.
My 1981 glenfield model 60 (made by Marlin) has the alloy trigger guard. Not sure when they switched to plastic.

Do not dry fire a rimfire, it's very hard on the firing pin when it smacks into the edge of the receiver.

I remove the stock and trigger group to clean, thats it.

If you take the first two digits of the serial number and subtract from 2000 (or 2100), thats the year of manufacture. So mine has 19 as the first two, which makes it 1981.

Examples: 25 would be 1975, 05 would be 1995, 95 would be 2005 (since it's obviously not 100 years old)
Dry firing a rimfire can be absolutely OK, depending on the model. M60s did not use to have a bolt hold open feature in the 60s. There is a pin that prevents the firing pin from hitting the chamber wall.
I loved my Marlin Mod 60 before I sold it. One thing you want to watch for is that when removing all of the ammunition from the tube, sometimes a round sticks somewhere below the bolt and can be subsequently loaded into the chamber even though you believe the tube is completely empty. Check, check and triple check that chamber is all I can recommend. Otherwise have fun plinking! I had a scope on mine and it was unbeatable fun on the range.

Wow! I totally forgot that happened to mine. Exact same scenario. If you have an older 60 it would pay you to take the thing apart and check for this before it happens.
Funny you should mention that I bought a 79 model from an FFL's personal collection and he had forgotten to check that before he shipped the rifle. It made it to my LGS and sat behind the counter for two or three days leaning against their transfer rack. After I finished the paperwork and he was on the phone waiting for the NICS to come back, I started to thoroughly check the rifle out and lo and behold what did I find when I went to check the chamber, a CCI mini-mag just sitting there waiting to be chambered. Kind of shook both of us up that one: an FFL, who is very respected in the milsurp community, would forget to do a chamber check before shipping, and two: that his employee, who received and logged in the rifle, hadn't either.
If you want to dry fire, put a yellow wall anchor in the chamber. Fits perfect as a cheap snap cap for .22LR. A few bucks for a few hundred. Cheap insurance.
The 795 certainly isn't a gun that can be dry fired. The LSHO feature on mine doesn't work real well (about half the time I guess). That has led me to destroy 2 firing pins so far. I try to keep count but it takes all the fun out of a semi-auto to have to think about how many rounds you've fired. I just want to sling lead as fast as possible sometimes. Well a few hundred strikes of the firing pin against the side of the chamber is all it takes for the firing pin to break off. I've been more careful this time but I assume it's inevitable. I bought an extra firing pin so I won't have to wait for my next order. That's if I can find my extra firing pin after moving twice.

The 795 is very similar to the 60 but they are not identical like some believe (except for the feed mechanism of course). There are several differences in the actions of the two. But you have to look close to find them.

Normal rings do tend to slide back. Bezides the expensive BKL rings, look at the Leapers on piece. I have both, Leapers work just as good.
If you have a small punch you can put a tiny dent under the lip of the dovetail rail right where you want the scope rings to sit. The trick is to get the back of the rings to grip right in that small dent. It will keep the rings from moving around at all if you get it right. I mounted rings on my 60SS using that trick back in 2008 and the rings haven't slipped a single time since.
Not open for further replies.