Just wondering if there is a difference in accuracy between the new Marlin 60's and the older ones. Most of the reports I have read of the much-vaunted accuracy of the 60 have been with the older model - haven't heard much about what the latest incarnation can do.. Thanks.
Accuracy of New vs. Older Marlin Model 60?
- Thread starter Mattole
- Start date
- Status
Chrome
Member
All I can say is that for a stock rifle with a $10 Tasco 4x air rifle scope, the thing is scary accurate. I easily group .75 @ 30 yards and I rarely shoot it.
My only complaint is the plastic trigger. It has some flex that adds a mushy feel. Metal ones are out there, but since it's my girlfriend's rifle, I'll let her add that when she decides too.
Later,
Chrome...
My only complaint is the plastic trigger. It has some flex that adds a mushy feel. Metal ones are out there, but since it's my girlfriend's rifle, I'll let her add that when she decides too.
Later,
Chrome...
Can't say about newer model 60 Marlins, but I've owned a couple of the older ones, and found them quite accurate. As good as any other and definately better than some .22 rifles. I have never really liked the guns, but will credit them with fine accuracy.
With all of the talk about the accuracy that the 60 provides, like most things, I decided to try one out myself and bought one last week (new production). ($140 at MC Sporting Goods) Actually tried a range acquaintance's older 60 a few months back at the 25 yd range and was not impressed by the groups (Rem Golden, Tasco scoped.
Took it to the range the following day just to get acquainted with it before doing any mods and to see what problems crop up out of the box. Open sights.
Had to move up one notch to get elevation set but the gun was shooting 4-5" left at 50 yds. So far at that point with old Fed Lightning, not really impressive. 7 or 8 misfeeds in 100 rounds. The bolt did not seem to cycle fully. There were drag marks on the rim of the catridges (all the way up to the bullet) but somehow the bolt did not pick the round up. Possible the lifter was not lifting fast enough but most likely the bolt not fully cycling due to needing some break-in. Groups not really recorded as it was a first trip abd I'm not that great off the bench with non aperture sights. Plus the off centered issue and I was KY windaging. Wolf ME seemed to be better in group size but still had a handful of misfeeds. Trigger isn't as bad as I expected, not much creep. Still don't like loading tubes (as experienced with my Win 9422M). Also not liking the chamber loading sequence.
Will hammer the rear sight to center (to correct that problem) and scope it for groups for the next step.
To qualify my opinions on group sizes, 50 yds : 1.0" or more - not good, 0.5"-1.0"-acceptable, 0.25"-0.5" - very good, <0.25" - exceptional. 5 rounds minimum, Scoped.
Took it to the range the following day just to get acquainted with it before doing any mods and to see what problems crop up out of the box. Open sights.
Had to move up one notch to get elevation set but the gun was shooting 4-5" left at 50 yds. So far at that point with old Fed Lightning, not really impressive. 7 or 8 misfeeds in 100 rounds. The bolt did not seem to cycle fully. There were drag marks on the rim of the catridges (all the way up to the bullet) but somehow the bolt did not pick the round up. Possible the lifter was not lifting fast enough but most likely the bolt not fully cycling due to needing some break-in. Groups not really recorded as it was a first trip abd I'm not that great off the bench with non aperture sights. Plus the off centered issue and I was KY windaging. Wolf ME seemed to be better in group size but still had a handful of misfeeds. Trigger isn't as bad as I expected, not much creep. Still don't like loading tubes (as experienced with my Win 9422M). Also not liking the chamber loading sequence.
Will hammer the rear sight to center (to correct that problem) and scope it for groups for the next step.
To qualify my opinions on group sizes, 50 yds : 1.0" or more - not good, 0.5"-1.0"-acceptable, 0.25"-0.5" - very good, <0.25" - exceptional. 5 rounds minimum, Scoped.
Slugless
Member
HKSW,
I had to drift my iron sight as well, it was shooting about 4 " to the left.
Adjusting the rear sight ended up being a bit tedious. I tried drifting the sight by tapping on it with the side of a multi-tool but it kept overshooting. I then drifted it by putting pressure on one side with the multi-tool with my thumb pressing against the other side. The little ramp tilts during the drifting, too - keeping it plumb helped. Using a pencil to mark where I thought the sight should go helped as well.
You can probably figure all this out on your own but perhaps this post can save you a few minutes....
I had to drift my iron sight as well, it was shooting about 4 " to the left.
Adjusting the rear sight ended up being a bit tedious. I tried drifting the sight by tapping on it with the side of a multi-tool but it kept overshooting. I then drifted it by putting pressure on one side with the multi-tool with my thumb pressing against the other side. The little ramp tilts during the drifting, too - keeping it plumb helped. Using a pencil to mark where I thought the sight should go helped as well.
You can probably figure all this out on your own but perhaps this post can save you a few minutes....
Fast Frank
Member
Back around the early '70s, I had a Glenfield 60 with iron sights.
I shot thousands of bullets out of that thing, and rarely missed.
That one was stolen from me in a house burglary.
Today, I have a Marlin model 60. This one is scoped, because I can't do the iron sight thing like I could when my eyes were 20 years old.
Was my old rifle more accurate than my new one?
Not a fair question.
1. The older I get, the better I used to be. Relying on my memory about shots I made 30 years ago isn't fair.
2. The older rifle was irons, and the new one has a 14 power scope. Granted, my eyes are going south, but that doesn't make it a fair comparison.
Having said all that...
I believe I shoot about the same size 50 yard groups today as I did back then.
When I was having an especially good day 30 years ago, I could shoot three or five shot groups at 50 yards and have one ragged hole.
I make that same claim today.
The real question lies here:
What would have happened if I knew then as much as I do today, and had a 14 power scope on that Glenfield?
We'll never know. Too many variables.
How do today's bullets compare to what we shot 30 years ago?
For my personal experience, I'm going to call it a tie.
I don't see any big differences in accuracy between the new and the old.
I shot thousands of bullets out of that thing, and rarely missed.
That one was stolen from me in a house burglary.
Today, I have a Marlin model 60. This one is scoped, because I can't do the iron sight thing like I could when my eyes were 20 years old.
Was my old rifle more accurate than my new one?
Not a fair question.
1. The older I get, the better I used to be. Relying on my memory about shots I made 30 years ago isn't fair.
2. The older rifle was irons, and the new one has a 14 power scope. Granted, my eyes are going south, but that doesn't make it a fair comparison.
Having said all that...
I believe I shoot about the same size 50 yard groups today as I did back then.
When I was having an especially good day 30 years ago, I could shoot three or five shot groups at 50 yards and have one ragged hole.
I make that same claim today.
The real question lies here:
What would have happened if I knew then as much as I do today, and had a 14 power scope on that Glenfield?
We'll never know. Too many variables.
How do today's bullets compare to what we shot 30 years ago?
For my personal experience, I'm going to call it a tie.
I don't see any big differences in accuracy between the new and the old.
rangerruck
Member
you need to break in the new bolts/receivers but that is about it.
The new ones are plenty accurate as well, so don't sweat it. Just try about 30 diff types of ammo, and you will find a few that will ber very accurate. Try Out CCI's, Aguilas, american eagle red box. Also try winny experts, bulk box, but most bulk ammo will be crap. feddy's bulk should be the red box American Eagles. but if you find something else bulk feddy , give them a try.
Also remington/eley orange, or yellow box, then golden eagles, in the blue/black, or brown/black boxes. The most expensive of this ammo will be the rem/eley orange and yellow boxes, all the rest should be less than 3.00 per box.
Oh yeah, try wolf ammo as well.
The new ones are plenty accurate as well, so don't sweat it. Just try about 30 diff types of ammo, and you will find a few that will ber very accurate. Try Out CCI's, Aguilas, american eagle red box. Also try winny experts, bulk box, but most bulk ammo will be crap. feddy's bulk should be the red box American Eagles. but if you find something else bulk feddy , give them a try.
Also remington/eley orange, or yellow box, then golden eagles, in the blue/black, or brown/black boxes. The most expensive of this ammo will be the rem/eley orange and yellow boxes, all the rest should be less than 3.00 per box.
Oh yeah, try wolf ammo as well.
ThomasT
Member
An easy and accurate way to drift your sights is this. Slide a piece of masking tape or blank white address label under the point on the front sight. Either trace around the sight or make a mark at the tip with a fine pen or sharp pencil. Now when you move the sight you can see how far you have gone.
Slugless
Member
+1 Ratshooter. Scribing with a pencil worked well on my nickel finish but perhaps not smooth CS.
Slightly off topic - last night I "free floated" the barrel of my Marlin 60 using washers under the front action block. (basis recommendations on rimfirecentral)
(it's not exactly free floated because of the mag tube but at least it's free to sing at it's own frequency & not smack/bind against the stock)
Anyone else done this? Results?
Slightly off topic - last night I "free floated" the barrel of my Marlin 60 using washers under the front action block. (basis recommendations on rimfirecentral)
(it's not exactly free floated because of the mag tube but at least it's free to sing at it's own frequency & not smack/bind against the stock)
Anyone else done this? Results?
A good option Rs. Will give that a shot.
Haven't tried the washer trick on my 60 (yet) but have done it with the CZ 452 Ultra Lux I'm using for CMP Rimfire Sporter instead of sanding out the barrel channel like I did with the 452 Training Rifle it is replacing (among other CZs I've done it to). Front lug only. Works very well. There was a significant improvement for me but you have to consider that I use the sling for prone and sitting positions. Haven't grouped it on a bench to compare with its original groups (and likely never will).
Haven't tried the washer trick on my 60 (yet) but have done it with the CZ 452 Ultra Lux I'm using for CMP Rimfire Sporter instead of sanding out the barrel channel like I did with the 452 Training Rifle it is replacing (among other CZs I've done it to). Front lug only. Works very well. There was a significant improvement for me but you have to consider that I use the sling for prone and sitting positions. Haven't grouped it on a bench to compare with its original groups (and likely never will).
My new one is also scary accurate. The new ones with wood stocks, even the plain-looking base model, have laminate stocks. This may help accuracy a bit, and can't hurt it. They all have pretty heavy barrels, and I don't think harmonics and flex are much of an issue with a heavy barrel and .22LR.
Here's how to do your own trigger job for practically free, or really cheap if you don't have JB Weld around. http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143780
Actually, you don't really need the JB Weld if you don't mind trigger creep, and I don't find it to be a problem. The actual pull weight can be tweaked for free.
1/2" at 50 yards. Tell me again why I should have kept the Ruger 10/22 I sold and dumped a few hundred more bucks into it to get similar accuracy...
Here's how to do your own trigger job for practically free, or really cheap if you don't have JB Weld around. http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143780
Actually, you don't really need the JB Weld if you don't mind trigger creep, and I don't find it to be a problem. The actual pull weight can be tweaked for free.
1/2" at 50 yards. Tell me again why I should have kept the Ruger 10/22 I sold and dumped a few hundred more bucks into it to get similar accuracy...
I bought the Model 60SS a couple of years ago. Synthetic stock, stainless barrel. I put a BSA 'Sweet 22' scope on it and its dead on. I found the Rem bulk pack from wallyworld to be dirty stuff and caused me some issues when I didn't clean it for 600 or so rounds. Switched to Federal and haven't had an issue.
- Status
