On the right track for 1st build?

[bbqreloader]

So I am going for my first build,. This will be a plinker and am going for FDE color because everthing I own is the same color, so a little variation will be nice. I am also not spending gobs of money for special parts, maybe the next one. The parts are going to be purchased over time due to regular family budgetary reasons.
What I am looking for are opinions from those that have built AR's to make sure I am on the right track and to see if I am missing any parts. I plan to buy tools before I start, to include a go-no go gauge since I am not buying a completed upper that would have been headspaced.

I just bought a stripped Anderson lower- will get Cerakoted soon.

Looking at the following parts to purchase along the way:
1. Aero precision upper recv. assembly
2. Tom's Tactical Blk Nitride BCG V2
3. Magpul MOE Lower Build Kit w/ H1 buffer upgrade
4. Gas tube, based on length.
5. Handguard- still researching- would appreciate some reasonble options.
6. rear sight, most likely a magpul flip up, might add a red dot afterwards
7. A2 flash hider

Toss up:
1. CMMG 16 inch barrel w/f mark front sight
or
2. Del Ton Lightweight 16 inch 1x9 chrome lined (leaning towards this one); includes barrel nut, round handguard cap and f marked fsb

Missing anything or do any of the parts mentioned have issues (safety, horrible manufacturing) that I should find something different.
Thanks!

 

[greyling22]

I have a Tom's nitride bolt. Works great. You might consider saving a couple bucks with an Anderson upper. I bought their version without fwd assist or dust cover for 40 bucks. (Maybe from aim surplus?)

Are you thinking you want iron sights with standard handguard? Or a free float rail with flip up irons or just a dot?

And finally, you don't need go/ not gauges. Barrels come with the extension attached and just slip into the receiver. It's virtually idiot proof.

 

[Varminterror]

For a budget carbine, you'll be hard pressed to build it cheaper than you can buy the same. There's some satisfaction and some entertainment value to be had in building your own, but you're not saving yourself any money. You'll get around $100 (or more) into tools to build your own the right way, and if you stalk every sale and good deal price on every part, you'll still end up around $400 into your AR, add that $100 in AR specific tools on top of about as much in standard tools you may or may not already own, and you'll end up exactly where you would have been if you bought a carbine off of the shelf on a sale day. I've built and rebuilt hundreds of AR's, it's VERY hard for someone who isn't getting dealer discounts to build a simple carbine for less than they could buy it. I've never met a guy who built a mil-spec carbine, just one, and saved money on it compared to buying a shelf model.

If you do insist on building it, just so you can say you did...

Save your money on the go/no-go's. Worst case, rent them, but it's a waste of money if you're only going to build a handful of AR's in your life. What you gonna do if the headspace is wrong anyway? Doesn't sound like you'll be set up to pull the extension and set back the barrel... So then you're just adding time and cost trying to return a bolt or return a barrel...

Build it free-floating, and skip the A2 front sight gas block. Way more options for handguards, better accuracy too. If you decide to scope it later on, having that sight post sticking up in front is just an unnecessary annoyance.

I'm not a fan of the MOE grips or stocks, and likening this to the above, you can buy a factory model for cheap with the MOE furniture already installed.

Not a fan of CMMG or Del-ton tomato stakes, but if you're just looking for a blasting barrel, they're cheap, and they'll work. I wouldn't buy either, personally.

Aero uppers are as good as any forged I have seen, and better in finish than many. Most I have bought have been Brass Aluminum or Cerro Forgings, which are effectively the only two I care to purchase.

Nordic Components free float handguard can often be had for cheap. Their rails are a bit spendy, but the handguards are good quality, easily installed, and very solid. Wanna say the last one I bought was $75 on sale.

Get a set of JP Rifles Yellow Reduced Resistance springs for your FCG, and a 1/4"-28 x 1/2" long plug screw. This will be the best $12.38 you'll ever spend on a low-budget AR carbine.

Full Shroud, M16 bolt with an H1 or H2 buffer is a good path to run. Slow down that BCG a bit. An adjustable gas block on top of an M16 BCG and H2 buffer is an even better path.

Chrome lining for semiauto civilian arms is highly overrated. Chromoly and stainless barrels will run just as well, and often better. Chrome lined are cheap, and everywhere, but I don't care for them personally. Although, most of my barrels cost more than it sounds like you should end up spending on this entire rig.

Having the A2 flash hider and gas tube of "whatever length I need" on your list is kinda indicative of having your priorities sideways. An A2 is an afterthought, I use them as thread protectors on many rifles, not because they're good, but because they're cheap. Gas tubes aren't really a place you can go wrong either, and whether you spend $7 on one or $70, they'll basically do the same job just as well. Focus on your furniture, because that's the stuff which makes the rifle fit YOUR body. Focus on the barrel, because that's what contacts the bullet. And focus on the trigger, because that is your only control mechanism for delivering shots on target.

If you're interested, I use a spreadsheet to catalog all of the parts I use in a build, it tallies up the costs and helps keep track to be sure all parts are accounted for before I start building. Again - I think you'll be better off to buy one instead of build, but if you're going to build it, you might find yourself drinking through a firehose if you don't start getting your plan together and learning the tuning tricks now.

 

[bbqreloader]

I have a Tom's nitride bolt. Works great. You might consider saving a couple bucks with an Anderson upper. I bought their version without fwd assist or dust cover for 40 bucks. (Maybe from aim surplus?)

Are you thinking you want iron sights with standard handguard? Or a free float rail with flip up irons or just a dot?

And finally, you don't need go/ not gauges. Barrels come with the extension attached and just slip into the receiver. It's virtually idiot proof.

I have a Tom's nitride bolt. Works great. You might consider saving a couple bucks with an Anderson upper. I bought their version without fwd assist or dust cover for 40 bucks. (Maybe from aim surplus?)

Are you thinking you want iron sights with standard handguard? Or a free float rail with flip up irons or just a dot?

And finally, you don't need go/ not gauges. Barrels come with the extension attached and just slip into the receiver. It's virtually idiot proof.

Grey, looked at uppers, but want some color. Was thinking iron sights but want option to add maybe red dot or scope at a later time. Might skip A2 sight and go with low profile block, so based on your experience, where do I throw a front sight then, the gas block if railed?
Wasnt to sure about the gauges as information that I have researched recommended that I gauge the headspace since the receiver and barrel were not put together by the same company and tested.

I plan to have some fun with this build, ie, take my time, build the parts.

 

[Everready73]

Look into ALG for the handguard. The are priced fair and are good quality. Aero also makes handguards priced well but you have to buy their barrel nut as well. Primary Arms and Aim Surplus are great sites for parts.

The BCG you mentioned is fine, but you could look at Toolcraft nitrate as well if you want options.

The only thing I would rethink is the barrel. I wouldn't go with either option. Look into ballistic Advantage or Faxon firearms. The are two of the best "value"barrels out there IMO. The Faxon "gunner" profile in 16in CMV will be in my next build and has great feedback around the web(as does the ballistic Advantage). Also consider an upgraded trigger like the ALG ACT . Remember the barrel, BCG, and trigger are the most important parts. Don't skimp on the areas and you will have a good rifle

 

[Everready73]

Handguards usually have a rail piece or you can add one for the front site to mount it. Aim and several other sites sell the Faxon and ballistic Advantage barrels with the low pro Gas block installed already. They also have the barrels with fsb depending on what you want

 

[greyling22]

Grey, looked at uppers, but want some color. Was thinking iron sights but want option to add maybe red dot or scope at a later time. Might skip A2 sight and go with low profile block, so based on your experience, where do I throw a front sight then, the gas block if railed?
Wasnt to sure about the gauges as information that I have researched recommended that I gauge the headspace since the receiver and barrel were not put together by the same company and tested.

I plan to have some fun with this build, ie, take my time, build the parts.

I figured if you were going to cerakote your lower, you might do the upper at the same time. For free float handguards, I really like the utg pro stuff. you can get 15" handguards for around 100-150 depending on style and color. I got their OD green handguard, and it matches my od green magpul stock and grip very well. And I would put a front sight right on the top of the freefloat handguard. Not going to be quite as stable as on the gas block, but irons aren't really about precision.

as far as barrels go, I have yet to see a barrel that won't do 1.5 inch or better at 100yds with decent ammo (rock river, spikes, 2 palmetto, mas defense, 22modsforall, radical firearms, doublestar, voodoo). I like the nitrided barrels. after that, as far as I am concerned, they are all more or less equal. Unless you are planning on burning up a lot of ammo at once, I look for as light a barrel as I can find.

for the trigger, I echo varminator and recommend the milspec parts with the set screw and either the jp springs, or just cutting a leg off the regular milspc hammer spring, it does the same thing. If you are willing to file on the back of the trigger bar, you can get a really nice trigger out of milspc parts.

for tools, if you use a free float handguard, you won't need the barrel nut wrench. they buffer tube castle nut wrench is still nice to have ($7 on ebay, and you can usually find somebody to loan you one) and you can build out the rest without the blocks they well. the lower block is not needed at all, and the upper block can be skipped by putting your upper receiver in a vice sideways, clamping the top rail and the flats where the lower receiver contacts. (use leather or something to pad the jaws obviously)

 

[WestKentucky]

Grey, looked at uppers, but want some color. Was thinking iron sights but want option to add maybe red dot or scope at a later time. Might skip A2 sight and go with low profile block, so based on your experience, where do I throw a front sight then, the gas block if railed?
Wasnt to sure about the gauges as information that I have researched recommended that I gauge the headspace since the receiver and barrel were not put together by the same company and tested.

I plan to have some fun with this build, ie, take my time, build the parts.

Don't put your front sight on the gas block. There are a few reasons not to...heat causes things to expand and contract that means move around and the gas block gets Stinking hot after a few rounds. The gas block is secured with set screws, not a lot of reliability there if it snags on something. Dimpled barrels do hang on better, but they aren't the end all be all solution, and adding stuff to the gas block makes it easier to bang or snag. I prefer to actually use a low profile and a handguard to cover the gas block. And if your building a carbine or two you can get by with a 30 dollar tool set off eBay and a set of cheap punches. You won't save money on a single build, but you can come in at the same price point and then save money on your 2nd build.

For what it's worth I'm building my 3rd from parts now...it's easy...and I'm at about 1400 bucks between the three including mags. I used junk box optics so add your cost for sights there...1st Gen mbus are about 20 a set on ebay and they are good enough for most folks.

 

[Driftertank]

Wasnt to sure about the gauges as information that I have researched recommended that I gauge the headspace since the receiver and barrel were not put together by the same company and tested.

With ARs, the headspace is set at the barrel extension. The receiver has almost nothing to do with it. As long as the barrel was put together by a halfway competent employee of a relatively reputable company, and your bolt head isn't horribly out of spec, you should be fine.

That said, my PERSONAL habit is to always load a single round, remove the magazine to give any gas from a rupture an easy place to exit, and fire the first round from a rest at arm's length, away from my face, then check the fired round for any signs of stretching, bulging, or other evidence of improper headspace the first time i fire a newly built AR. I have yet to have a single issue in the 7 guns I've assembled, but i still feel it's better to be safe than sorry, as they say.

 

[redneck2]

I would agree that you'll probably come out just as well buying as building. That said, I am worked now on my 4th AR. All have different purposes. This one was built from scratch. I consider myself very mechanically inclined, but I really learned a lot during the build. Takes all the mystery out of it.

 

[ColoradoMinuteMan]

I have first hand experience with Faxon and they make a really nice barrel. Not only does it function flawlessly, but it also has a beautiful fit and finish. The ALG ACT and BCM PNT are both noticeably more consistent than a random mil-spec trigger.

 

[bbqreloader]

Thanks for all the info and keep it coming, the headspacing was the one that had me the most worried. Already looking at other options, handguards, sights and others, based on everyones input. The basic list was put together just to see if I had all the parts I thought would be needed, i.e. sorta need a gas tube, flash hider (have yet to see a build without one but you never know), etc.
I appreciate the "buy one over building", but back to budgetary, it's a helluva alot easier for me to buy a part one month, then maybe another month or so down the road, then come up with 5 or 7 hundred off the bat, especially with family obligations. Really I have access to other AR's from friends and etc, I want to BUILD one, I like working with my hands and getting into projects methodically, henceforth why I spend a lot of time over in the reloading forum. As stated in my earlier post I want to keep this one a basic " I built it" plinker, then move forward with some carbine builds down the road...we shall see

 

[bbqreloader]

Don't put your front sight on the gas block. There are a few reasons not to...heat causes things to expand and contract that means move around and the gas block gets Stinking hot after a few rounds. The gas block is secured with set screws, not a lot of reliability there if it snags on something. Dimpled barrels do hang on better, but they aren't the end all be all solution, and adding stuff to the gas block makes it easier to bang or snag. I prefer to actually use a low profile and a handguard to cover the gas block. And if your building a carbine or two you can get by with a 30 dollar tool set off eBay and a set of cheap punches. You won't save money on a single build, but you can come in at the same price point and then save money on your 2nd build.

For what it's worth I'm building my 3rd from parts now...it's easy...and I'm at about 1400 bucks between the three including mags. I used junk box optics so add your cost for sights there...1st Gen mbus are about 20 a set on ebay and they are good enough for most folks.

Any particular low profile you like? Or they all about the same?

 

[WestKentucky]

They are all about the same. Pay for your gas block though, the $6 specials often have off center ports or rough cuts that make it tough to get it working properly. Rounded edges and multiple set screws are key.

 

[Tirod]

It's really less about the parts and more about how the parts fit together. Since the industry is sticking to milspec and that works 98% of the time for most of us, the finesse points are where it's at.

First, what gas length. It goes to how long a barrel - which should be answered by what cartridge is being shot at what distance at what target. A lot of people like to mix it up but that is where most of the cycling issues start. A 5.56 with 16" barrel gets mid gas - which means the port is tapped about 5 back from the muzzle, which is the operating standard for best reliability. Not carbine - gas ports are timed by dwell from the muzzle, not from the chamber. With that decided you then go to the other end and match the buffer and spring to what length stock tube you are using. For the most part builders would be better off going up +1 on buffer weight to slow bolt cycling, and it's better to use a milspec "full auto" bolt carrier for the additional weight. Bolt cycling speeds that are too high cause the majority of misfeeds. Some build superlight guns with highly tuned actions, but that is what they have to do to get them running. They have to tune the buffer weights and adjust a variable gas port. The AR15 has an assortment of port sizes used in the barrel and if you are going that route then one of the larger ones is needed for the gas block to choke it down.

That block needs to be installed where the barrel port and block port overlap. It's milspec to have the handguard spacer in between - be advised that working dimensions by some makers don't always turn out with ports coaxial if the spacer is missing. If it's a set screw block most barrels are dimpled to push the block against shoulder which is actually contrary to where it needs to go. It needs to space away from the barrel shoulder .030 to fit correctly.

Another issue is how the barrel sits against the nose of the upper with the barrel nut tightened. First, that nose does not need to be squared and the receiver extension does not need any "bedding compound." It doesn't provide any incremental improvements that a higher quality barrel can't exceed easily. Second, squaring the nose only reduces the amount of windage or elevation in a poor quality upper necessary to get on target. If it proves to be a problem sighting in with an adjustment cranked over to the max, then it might help. Otherwise, don't bother. The major builders don't anyway - it's an extra charge process - they guarantee their accuracy by using good parts from the beginning, not having to modify or alter bad parts to make them work. It's lost labor to salvage a poor quality upper for them, they avoid it.

Torquing the barrel isn't a precision operation regardless of the internet hype. It's a minimum of 30 ft pds and a maximum not to exceed figure of 85 ft pds. If the teeth on the barrel nut line up - then stop. You do NOT have to ACHIEVE 85 pounds, you are just getting it tight enough for the barrel nut to line up. The gas tube slips in and then becomes the mechanical lock. It's not rocket science.

Furniture choice are largely a matter of aesthetics with little potential improvement in handling or ergonomics. In other words, mostly a waste of money going too far. What free float tube to use is mostly visual, not performance. The point of the free float is that hand pressure and sling tension is handled by it, not the barrel, which isn't connected except at the barrel nut. If iron sights are used then the front sight SHOULD be on the barrel - if its on the free float then it's getting twisted around by the sling again and it is no longer free. Far too many builders don't see this and for the most part it's moot, They build berm blasters and if they are going to shoot precision then an overpowered scope gets mounted and you are right back to free floating again.

A scope mount cannot bridge the rail going from upper to handguard. Because the float does bend and twist it will do the same to the scope tube and the makers don't care to warranty what they spell out is abuse. That makes a full length top rail on the handguard a waste of money for most of us. The old quad rail M4 concept was an institutional compromise to accept SOPMOD kit assigned to dozens of different units, today we just bolt on a piece of rail or spend even more for a compatible Hole of the Month accessory to weight down the gun. Be advised there are some tube makers attempting to make universal holes for all that kit - for the most part it's complicating the market and buyer beware.

For the most part the critical issue is to match the correct gas length to the barrel and then select a complementary buffer. Just because the market offers the wrong ones doesn't mean they are right for you - there are a boatload of parts and accessories out there because they sell, not because they are optimum for the gun you are building. Pick the cartridge and barrel length to match the range and target first - that is where 85% of reliability and accuracy are given a good working foundation. Most of the rest of it is window dressing which won't affect reliable operation - and should be considered with a jaded eye for the amount of money it tries to suck out of your wallet.

Built a 6.8 during the Banics and an AR pistol two years ago that cost half. A highly accurate and worthwhile rifle can be put together for about the same money as what the market offers - we are stuck buying retail where they get bulk quantity discounts - but it will be the way you want it, not some marketers idea of what flies off the shelf because tacticool.

 

[Everready73]

Just make sure for the gas block you don't cheap out to much as recommended. They are not that expensive for a good quality one. Just make sure to get steel and NOT aluminum. The aluminum will fail with higher heat levels well before a steel gas block

 

[redneck2]

I forgot to mention before, be sure to read the stickies at the top of this forum if you haven't. Many of your questions are most likely answered there

 

[M1key]

I like the stickies. But being a typical guy, I never ask for directions. LOL

Good luck. Have fun...

M

 

[bbqreloader]

Thought I would update everyone who took the time to help me out on this.
Finally finished my first build! Had fun doing it, spent around $750. I'll add a red dot or something else here in a bit. It's FDE horrendus but it's all mine and I built it!
Some friends hooked me up with a local Tac Shop that did the headspace check and dimpled the barrel for the gas block. The only thing left is to get it to the range and shoot it.
Ended up using the following:
Ballastic Advantage 16 govt profile barrel
Monstrum Key mod 12 inch, hand guard with end cap
Anderson stripped lower
Republic Firearms Charging Handle
Toms Tactical:
Nitride BCG
A2 flash hider
mid length gas tube with pin
.750 low profile gas block with set screws (Aero)
MagPul LBK - upgraded to H2 buffer
MagPUl Flip Up front/rear sights

 

[il.bill]

Cool!

and ... you did it yourself - that rifle is yours!

 

[bbqreloader]

That said, my PERSONAL habit is to always load a single round, remove the magazine to give any gas from a rupture an easy place to exit, and fire the first round from a rest at arm's length, away from my face, then check the fired round for any signs of stretching, bulging, or other evidence of improper headspace the first time i fire a newly built AR.

Thanks for the advice!! I took it to heart today and followed it, plus threw in a quick Hail Mary for good measure.
I just remembered when I fired my first reloads and how nervous I was and here I am firing off my first build with proven reloads...
All worked out great!! By the time I got the scope tuned in, I was on target and happy! Now to get to an outdoor range so I can go further and see what it will do.

 

[RussellC]

Thanks for all the info and keep it coming, the headspacing was the one that had me the most worried. Already looking at other options, handguards, sights and others, based on everyones input. The basic list was put together just to see if I had all the parts I thought would be needed, i.e. sorta need a gas tube, flash hider (have yet to see a build without one but you never know), etc.
I appreciate the "buy one over building", but back to budgetary, it's a helluva alot easier for me to buy a part one month, then maybe another month or so down the road, then come up with 5 or 7 hundred off the bat, especially with family obligations. Really I have access to other AR's from friends and etc, I want to BUILD one, I like working with my hands and getting into projects methodically, henceforth why I spend a lot of time over in the reloading forum. As stated in my earlier post I want to keep this one a basic " I built it" plinker, then move forward with some carbine builds down the road...we shall see

I think your inquiries are leading you the right way. Part at a time may very well end up costing a bit more than if you bought a pre assembled AR. What you gain is a great working knowledge of all the parts and how they interact. Plus, repairs are also understandable and executing them your self is now no mystery. If it is, a few questions here will size it up for you.

Yes, you likely paid a little more overall, but factor in the cost of the education you also get, and that part is a genuine bargain!

I understand your caution concerning headspace, but others have covered that. Buy a reputable barrel. Faxon and Ballistic advantage are two examples that are both excellent and affordable.

First fires, especially with my first build are both a little scarey and amazing, so surprised was I that it worked!

Im on my fifth build, all have functioned perfectly with the exception of my first 300 BO. That turned out to be a defective gas block, whose replacement solved all. How did I figure that out? Asking here of course!

It is also a fact that you can build more than a "plinker" gun.
Good barrel, good trigger, truing the receiver will result in a highly accurate gun.

Also, you can upgrade parts later. I was very concerned with my first barrel change. I dont know what I was afraid of, that it wouldnt come off or what. Questions here, and it came off and new one back on no problem. Have the right tools, which dont have to be super expensive, ask question like you are and proceed with confidence.

Russellc

 

[wally]

For a budget carbine, you'll be hard pressed to build it cheaper than you can buy the same.

Only if you are sure you won't want to change the furniture that comes with the price point gun. Building saves the excise tax on complete guns and lets you get the stock, grip, and hand guard you really want without waste. The bargain lowers, upper, barrels and triggers are pretty much all the same and frankly damn good for the money!

I built a "price point" gun for my wife with an 18" Wilde chamber barrel but got the "right" stock and grip for her and she is ringing steel at 300 yards and enjoying it immensely!

 

[bbqreloader]

Ran across this today on FB, local gun shop just got it and in. FNH Scar 17. After looking at the color scheme I feel better about my FDE rifle, that even a major manufacturer had a tough time getting matching color parts


View attachment 236853

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Nice build.
Trying to get FDE , from more then one place to match, is like trying to make ice with your oven.
I call it FED camouflage.