Once fired 223 - Which one?

Which once fired 223 brass to buy? (same price)

  • Same headstamp, AR-15 fired, but dirty, primers crimped in

    Votes: 14 93.3%
  • Mixed brass, ? fired by SAW, but deprimed and cleaned

    Votes: 1 6.7%
  • Other (please explain)

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    15
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Shrinkmd

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I have seen several types of 223 once fired brass for sale. Some state they are mixed headstamps, some promise only fired in AR-15 and no SAW fired brass. Some promise only one headstamp. Some come dirty, crimped primers in, and others have been processed a bit.

So, for the same money, would you rather have processed, deprimed, but mixed cases and unclear what they were fired in, or dirty, primer in, but guaranteed AR-15 fired and same headstamp? Or does it not matter? This is for plinking loads, with the occasional batch of Sierra Matchkings (but not for competition, just for fun)

I already have the Dillon Super Swage adjusted for 223 brass, so I'm set up for depriming and crimp removal, although it is a chore.
 
What headstamp?

I get good life out of LC brass.

If buying once fired, the only way to know for sure is that the crimp is still intact.
 
The AR 15 fired brass will be in better shape. I would get it and put in the prep time.
 
Light machineguns such as the Squad Automatic Weapon frequently have the headspace adjusted very loosely, to improve functioning. That's good for the SAW, but bad for anyone handloading the stuff. I had a lot of bad experiences many years ago with 7.62x51mm brass that had been fired in M60 machineguns that I avoid any brass from belt-feds.

If I'm going to be reloading brass such as the .223, which frequently fails by having loose primer pockets, there is probably some benefit from having the primer pocket work hardened and tightened by the primer pocket crimp being swaged out. It is a pain in the butt to swage them, but nowhere near as bad as trimming with a manual trimmer.

Mixed headstamps will mean different case specifications. I have some old Norma brass which is over 100 grains in case weight. Most of the brass I see today has case weights in the 90 to 93gr weight range IIRC. The difference in case weight is reflected in case volume, and the same powder charge will develop much higher pressures in those old Norma cases. Neck hardnesses would probably also vary.

I have had good experiences with LC and Winchester brass in recent years (and no bad experiences), so I stick with that. The Winchester brass I am using now came from a Police Department and was originally a NT loading, but I can not tell any difference in the brass from ordinary Winchester brass (NT pistol brass frequently has a different flash hole size).

I just bought another large batch of Winchester NT brass from Wiedeners. It is a little grubby, but not rusty. The primers are crimped in the primer pockets. It comes in big bags that hold 1K cases. I will polish the stuff before sizing, lube, size in a Redding bushing full length die, polish again to remove lube, swage primer pockets with an RCBS crimp removal swage, trim with a Giraud, and store it for need. This is good work to keep me busy in Winter when I can't do anything else.
http://www.wideners.com/itemdetail.cfm?item_id=8436&dir=278|282|909|948
 
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I just bought another large batch of Winchester NT brass from Wiedeners.

Actually, that is exactly the product I was thinking about purchasing. The no-SAW guarantee and single headstamp seemed promising. How many loads have you been getting out of this brass?
 
It should last a good bit for you depending on how stout you load them. I have been playing with eight cases (3 RP & 5 LC 68 thru 09) lately. They started out as once fired (best I can tell since it's range brass) and weighed between 91.5 & 93.7 Grs. After firing, trimming, deburring, and chamfering seven times they now weigh between 91.2 & 93.4 Grs. They show absolutely no internal or external signs of separation beginning to happen. They show no signs of work hardening yet either.

What headstamps do they offer?

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