Paper patching?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Obturation

Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2018
Messages
3,991
Location
Northern illinois
Hey all,
During these goofed up times I think we're all doing things we wouldn't normally do.
I was re-reading Paul Mathews book, 40 years with the 45-70 and he talks about paper patching .450 & .452 bullets for use in a 45-70 (.458-.459). I understand the concept but I'm wondering about real world application. I do have a good supply of .452 bullets, both plain and coated and thought some pistol bullets would make use of some bullets that I don't use a ton of- 250 grain rnfp & 325 grain wfn coated.

What are your experiences doing this?

Ideal paper? - link if possible, I know onion skin paper is called for by Paul Mathews .

Best method of measuring & making a reproducible template by photo copy?

Use of bees wax or lube for post sizing?

Is this a dumb idea?

I do have a proper push through sizing die I would use after patches are attached.

Thanks for your thoughts on the subject.
 
You should search the blackpowder section. They’ve had several discussions about paper patching.
 
You should search the blackpowder section. They’ve had several discussions about paper patching.
I tried, came up with just 3 threads, one has 1 response unrelated to the thread and nothing else and the other 2 font cover what I'm asking. Perhaps I don't know how to search properly but I did try.
 
Good info but not exactly the question. Some black powder info transfers over but I'm wanting to use smokeless and more interested in the actual patching procedure and components (paper type, if lubricated what type , ECT.) . I see in the posting you linked to that you were using unsized brass, that's not appealing to me as I would hope to be able to load a tube magazine.

Not seeking load data , more bullet preparation techniques (&supplies) and reasons why I shouldn't bother trying this if it's futile .

I don't mind if it's more work than its worth, I'm not looking to waste time with something that just isn't going to really work.
 
I remember a Gun and Ammo article about paper patching in the lat 1980’s . I recall Ross Siefred wrote the article. If I remember correctly it involved large caliber rifle calibers. Could have been Mike Ventorino also. Might be in the G&A archives.
 
This post describes how to paper patch a conical including minies. --->>> https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/black-powder/310210-paper-patching-bullets-hunting-part-1-a.html

idahoron posted additional info. about paper patching and how to wrap bullets in these threads:

1. https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/black-powder/310211-paper-patching-bullets-hunting-part-2-a.html

2. https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/black-powder/244501-paper-patching-bullets-pictures-long-2.html

3. https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/black-powder/367094-questions-idahoron.html

Some have mentioned experimenting with using teflon tape to increase the diameter of a bullet.
And the teflon tape could simply be wrapped around only the mid-section of the bullet, just enough to hold it in the bore which would make starting and ramming it easier
than if the whole bullet were over-wrapped.
The idea is that a person would need to experiment to avoid over-wrapping the entire bullet which could make it too difficult to ram.

If that’s not enough here’s another but it covers paper patching cartridges:
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...aper-cartridge-tutorial.839915/#post-10896204
 
Good info but not exactly the question. Some black powder info transfers over but I'm wanting to use smokeless and more interested in the actual patching procedure and components (paper type, if lubricated what type , ECT.) . I see in the posting you linked to that you were using unsized brass, that's not appealing to me as I would hope to be able to load a tube magazine.

Not seeking load data , more bullet preparation techniques (&supplies) and reasons why I shouldn't bother trying this if it's futile .

I don't mind if it's more work than its worth, I'm not looking to waste time with something that just isn't going to really work.
I've used masking tape to bump the diameter on maxi-balls. That's as close as I've gotten to paper patching.
The tape worked well.
My Grandfather used postal tape on his elephant rifles.
 
I've tried paper patching, still have a 220gr 30cal mold laying around. Tried different papers, lubes,etc. At the end of the day it's hard to beat plain old teflon tape,
 
more interested in the actual patching procedure and components (paper type, if lubricated what type , ECT.) .
If you read it. all those elements were there.
Those are the notes I use over decades to repeat exactly what I did (literally) 40 years ago -- and as late as just last year.

Go to school on them.
There are no shortcuts.
No EZ "cookbook" solution to every different element.


.
 
Mathews is a Good start. Paper patching is a dark art, at least as much magic and superstition as science. People have very strong views about what's right and wrong.

I have head neither much experience or success with PP and smokeless.

I do a lot of PP shooting with Black Powder cartridges in 45-70 and, more recently, 9.5x47R.

Not all rifles are suited to paper patching. Rifles with short, sharp leades are less likely to deliver successful results.While people often have very strong views about paper, for to bullet and then patched bullet fit to bore are more important.

My views and advice, for what it's worth:

Check you rifle chamber for leade. If short and sharp, paper patching may never work well.

Paper depends on desired diameter. With .452 bullets of a harder alloy (anything harder than BHN 8 or 20:1 lead) and a groove diameter of .459, you want paper that is .003" thick so that a double wrap delivers a . 458" outer diamter.

Patch templates are available from Buffalo Aema and others. You can make your own. You want the ends to meet, not overlap. Patch should start just above the part of the bullet that goes from straight side, forward into ogive. Paper should protect the bullet base without a large tail of paper.

No lube. Very light taper crimp, just enough to take the bell out of the case mouth. Wipe out barrel out, one wet, one dry between shots.

Have fun.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top