drummingpariah
Member
I've heard many cautionary tales against the Para compact 1911's, but ended up getting a great deal on a used one, and fell in love with the overall feel. While I try to decide what my next compact 1911 will be, I'm trying to work out the 'notchiness' in the trigger in this one. I've torn it down and put it back together (it even worked without exploding afterward!), but that didn't solve the problem. I'm not sure if it's a problem that's related to the LDA system or to 1911's in general, so I'll just describe the problem here, and listen to whatever feedback comes in from you learned folks.
Here are the steps to reproduce the problem (I'm a software developer, and this is always the first and most critical step in troubleshooting any problem) after the gun has been safety-checked:
Step 1 - Rack the slide
This is always satisfying, the slide fitment on this gun is superb.
Step 2 - Pull the trigger to the break point
Silky smooth, no issues whatsoever. I can do this as many times as I like, or I can pull the trigger past the break point, letting the hammer fall. No notchiness, stickiness, or awkwardness no matter how many times I rack the slide and pull on the trigger.
Step 3 - Flip the thumb safety to the 'safe' position
This moves a small piece of metal that prevents the hammer from moving. I can still pull the trigger from this position, but it has a general 'grainy' feel to it, as opposed to when the safety is set to 'fire'.
Step 4 - Flip the thumb safety to the 'fire' position
This is where I would start out, if I ever had to rely on this handgun to defend myself. The gun is designed to be carried 'cocked and locked' and the double-action trigger is supposed to be some kind of safety mechanism (I'll never understand that rationale though ... the only thing needed for the gun to fire is pulling the trigger - I argue that that isn't "safe" at all). After it clears leather, I'd be taking it off safe and into fire as the first course of action.
Step 5 - Pull the trigger
The trigger moves back ~1/8" then it feels like it snags on something internally. It's easy to overcome that snag, but causes a jerking motion on the trigger. It's the opposite of what I want.
Step 6 - Pull the trigger again
After I've overcome the snag once, it's gone unless I flip the thumb safety again.
Notes
I'm open to any suggestions anybody has, and am happy to provide any additional clarification if I'm not making sense in any of this. I've done my best to provide all the pertinent information, but it's entirely possible that I've missed something in here (in fact, I'm sure I've missed something, since there's still a problem ... I've missed the cause of the problem). I'll be happy to provide pictures of anything I can get, but since all these workings are inside the hammer assembly, it's very difficult to get good photos.
Here are the steps to reproduce the problem (I'm a software developer, and this is always the first and most critical step in troubleshooting any problem) after the gun has been safety-checked:
Step 1 - Rack the slide
This is always satisfying, the slide fitment on this gun is superb.
Step 2 - Pull the trigger to the break point
Silky smooth, no issues whatsoever. I can do this as many times as I like, or I can pull the trigger past the break point, letting the hammer fall. No notchiness, stickiness, or awkwardness no matter how many times I rack the slide and pull on the trigger.
Step 3 - Flip the thumb safety to the 'safe' position
This moves a small piece of metal that prevents the hammer from moving. I can still pull the trigger from this position, but it has a general 'grainy' feel to it, as opposed to when the safety is set to 'fire'.
Step 4 - Flip the thumb safety to the 'fire' position
This is where I would start out, if I ever had to rely on this handgun to defend myself. The gun is designed to be carried 'cocked and locked' and the double-action trigger is supposed to be some kind of safety mechanism (I'll never understand that rationale though ... the only thing needed for the gun to fire is pulling the trigger - I argue that that isn't "safe" at all). After it clears leather, I'd be taking it off safe and into fire as the first course of action.
Step 5 - Pull the trigger
The trigger moves back ~1/8" then it feels like it snags on something internally. It's easy to overcome that snag, but causes a jerking motion on the trigger. It's the opposite of what I want.
Step 6 - Pull the trigger again
After I've overcome the snag once, it's gone unless I flip the thumb safety again.
Notes
- The grip safety has no impact on this test at any stage, other than its intended function.
- The gun has been well-cleaned and well-oiled. There is no grit in the trigger or hammer assembly.
- The trouble is in the rear of the gun, not actually at the trigger. Disconnecting the trigger linkage produces a perfectly smooth hinged trigger.
I'm open to any suggestions anybody has, and am happy to provide any additional clarification if I'm not making sense in any of this. I've done my best to provide all the pertinent information, but it's entirely possible that I've missed something in here (in fact, I'm sure I've missed something, since there's still a problem ... I've missed the cause of the problem). I'll be happy to provide pictures of anything I can get, but since all these workings are inside the hammer assembly, it's very difficult to get good photos.