Parts and homebrew mods for Ruger SA revolvers (Vaquero/Blackhawk/SSix)

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Great one!

Thanks, Jim, for carrying these over from TFL:

"...So that [gunsmithing] of the people, by the people, and for the people...shall not perish from this Earth!"

At least, he MIGHT have meant it that way...

:D :p :D
 
gotta help the new search function;)

Ruger free spin pawl trigger job poor boy birds head grip half cock cocking notch belt mountain base pin trigger improvement power custom ream cylinder reamer .452 .4525 ejector rods crescent

Hopefully that will help others to locate the thread.
 
I came across something damned interesting. This is part of the website for "Competitive Edge Gunworks", regarding SA work:

http://www.competitiveedgegunworks.com/Cowboy action services.html

Note the very last item:

Modify Grip Frame To Accept Colt First Generation Grips-makes Ruger point like a Colt - $110

He's also a dealer for Eagle grips (see also http://www.competitiveedgegunworks.com ), which makes "Gunfighter" type grips for SAAs, and can undoubtedly fit 'em to his own grip frames. (SAA grips generally need minor fitting to work right.)

That means you could have him set up a complete grip equivelent to the $200 Power Custom part, with grip panels, for around the cost of the Power Custom frame alone. He could probably gently round the corners on both the grip frame and grips fore and aft, if that's your thing.

Granted, you have to supply a factory-type XR3-RED grip frame to start with. But he's probably able to work from an aluminum frame as well as steel, and aluminum XR3-REDs off of Blackhawks are dirt cheap and common as fleas on the used market.

If the goal is to built a lightweight packin' SA, this would be THE hot ticket for a light, fast-handling and "proper ergonomics" Ruger. Throw a SuperBlackHawk hammer on there to drop the hammer reach to SAA proportions and DAYUM, you'd have one hell of a Ruger, at least for mild-to-medium horsepower levels (hot 357Mag, lower-end 45LC+P). Once you get to the gnarliest 45LC+P, the 44Mag or beyond, the Bisley grip frame becomes worth thinking about if it works in your hands.
 
be carefull lifting one leg of the spring on a ruger. It can cause a dangerous situation that will allow the hammer to fall with a light blow. It happens on about 3/4s of the ones ive tried it on.
 
Every time I load my vaquero I think "Gonna buy that free spin pawl one of these days".
 
That original thread on TFL is what convinced me to finally get a .45 convertible 5-1/2" Blackhawk a few weeks ago. I decided double-action revolvers are not for me. So far I swapped out the stock hammer with a stainless unit from a Super Blackhawk (drop-in part) to lower the hammer height and have a nice wide spur in one shot, replaced the stock alloy ejector rod housing with a steel unit, replaced the stock alloy grip frame with a stainless frame, and finally replaced the stock base pin with a Belt Mountain unit. The changes were all for fun/cosmetics, not because they were needed. Now I have a nice heavy hogleg built the way I like it. Time for some nice leather.
 
I can just sense that while right now this thread just provides interesting information in a year or so im going to go nuts trying to find it again when i NEED to read it.
 
Just finished installing the Bisley Hammer/ Blackhawk trigger kit and free spin pawl from Power Custom. I also got a Belt Mountain base pin from Brownells. (Power Custom now carries the Belt Mountain pins, I justed missed them by a few days).

I'd say all the above parts are well worth the money. The combination of the free wheeling pawl when the gate is open and the half-cock notch where the cylinders line up with the ejector makes loading and unloading considerably easier.
The action is smooth, lockup is rock solid and I think the trigger pull is almost too light with the wolf spring. The instructions from Power Custom, which are very good in general, give some tips on "heavying" the spring if you so desire.

During installation there is only one time when modification is definately required and that is to clearance the transfer bar so the loading gate can open at half cock. There's a diagram that shows how much to take off. I used a dremel.

The pawl may drop in, but I had to remove a little metal to allow it to come to full cock. lacking an appropriate file I used my diamond knife sharpener, worked great.

Anyway I just wanted to report how happy I was was these parts, this is how this gun should have come from the factory.

Funny story: The first time I put the gun all the way back together to check the function of the new parts the little spring that operates the cylinder lock was out of place, but I didn't notice this.

I opened the loading gate and spun the cylinder... in both directions... cool!

I moved to half cock (cool) opened the loading gate ( whew wasn't sure that was going to work) spun the cylinder clickclickclickclick (so far so good).

I closed the gate and lowered the hammer. Then pulled the hammer back to full cock fast... and was left holding a fully cocked ruger vaquero with a rapidly spinning cylinder (not good)

Didn't take too long to track down the problem though :)
 
Ya, it seems that when you factor in shipping costs, the PC hammer/trigger isn't really any more expensive than a typical $125 gunsmith action job. And that's not counting the benefits of switching to Bisley-type if you want (already altered for non-Bisley grip frames), plus the new cocking setup.

I wish it was available with an SBH-type hammer though.
 
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