pawn shop deal?

[texas bulldog]

so... a pawn shop down the street from where i work has a Sig P220 for $499. this is considerably better than i've seen them priced at gun shows and shops [more like $700-$750]. i didn't have a light handy to check the bore, but everything else seemed to be in good condition. i'd check the bore, of course, before i buy it.

my question is...would folks here trust a semi-auto bought from a pawn shop? i tend not to trust anything from them except perhaps a pump shotgun. for instance, the 1911 right next to it had perhaps the worst bore i've ever seen. didn't even need a light to tell me that.

also...i guess i'm not sure i know how to inspect a semi-auto without firing it. the action and trigger were smooth, and there was very little obvious wear. other than that, what should i be looking for?

 

[Rumble]

There is a litany of checkout tests you can do, if you a) remember to bring the right stuff and b) get the dealer's permission.

Here's what I did with my recently acquired CZ-82 (a 22-year-old pistol from AIM; obviously, this was done _after_ I'd bought it, but nonetheless):

1. I checked to make sure all the buttons worked--mag release, safety, takedown, etc--and that the slide moved as expected.
2. I checked the bore and crown; look at the wear, etc.
3. I disassembled and reassembled it a couple times, to make sure it all looked good and worked properly.
4. I put a pencil (eraser first) into the barrel, and pulled the trigger (making sure the gun was unloaded, natch). The pencil flew out, as expected.
5. I did a fairly abusive hammer-follow test: lock the slide back, and then let it slam home on an empty chamber, and see if the hammer falls when that happens. If it does: problem. If it doesn't: no problem. If you have snap caps, this isn't nearly as hard on the gun, but I didn't have any 9x18 dummy rounds.

Of these, you can probably do 1 and 2 at the dealer no sweat. 3 maybe--I was allowed to do it once, but only once. Anything involving pulling the trigger is less likely (dry firing, pencil test, etc.); I would _never_ do #4 on a gun I didn't own.

 

[kellyj00]

another thing, see how loose the slide is. It should have some play as it's used, but if it wobbles too much then I'd keep looking.

$500 for a used sig 220 is average in my area. if it's not in perfect shape, it's probably worth more like $450. I sold a p226 9mm for $400 recently with 3 high cap mags (during the high cap ban) the mags were what sold it for that price, the gun was in average condition. I had shot about 1500 rounds through it, and the fella I bought it from said he bought it new a decade before and shot it "often".

The sigs also have a tendency for the barrel's to lose the finish around where it meets the slide. If it's a black barrel, you can look at that and tell how much it's been used to a degree. Also, look on the slide for "made in W. Germany" I'm not sure on the 220, but on the 226 that supposedly dates the gun and supposedly they're 'better' nobody can tell me why though.

 

[EAFO]

I just paid that for a CPO Sig 226.

 

[Ala Dan]

Yes, we SIG-A-HOLIC's tend to favor West German weapons soley from a
collectors standpoint; as there is no longer a West Germany, its just plain
'ole Germany nowdays~!

 

[briang2ad]

I have four CZs...

And I think my latest, a Transitional (non)B 75 just may be the best. It has the best SA trigger as I bought it, and the DA is slicking up nicely. It has been flawless (only a couple hundred rounds), and it has a VERY smooth action. The finish is BETTER than I thought it was when I got it, and spruced up well in some spots with Oxpho Blue.

And... I got it in a pawn shop. If you know what you are looking at, you can do well there.