Permanent Case Marking

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MI2600

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I trim 9mm cases down to use in 9X18 Makarovs. I have tried magic markers to differentiate after they are loaded. However, the marks come off during tumbling.

Has anyone successfully tried another method(s)? I wondered about nail polish or maybe some kind of paint.
 
Maybe try a file and mark the case head so you can see it?? I wouldn't get too carried away, but at least it wont rub off during tumbling.:)
 
I'd be tempted to use nickel-plated brass to differentiate between the two.
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That or a magic Marker and put a band around it would be my suggestions. Just spin the case and hold the marker.
 
Tumble one or the other for 24 hours in a wet tumbler with SS pins and they will forever be OD green.
 
How about a cutoff disk in a Dremil and put a light line through the “9mm” head stamp. Would also alert someone else that something is different if they pick any of your lost brass.
 
For fun I dipped a 9mm case into concentrated copper chloride solution. This case turned copper colored, instantly. I am not sure of the reaction. But I think copper plates out onto the brass. (If I stick steel in to the solution it leaves a copper plating). It looked like what happens when u put too much lemishine in a wet tumbler.

I tossed it in the tumbler with a batch of regular brass and it didn't come off. So the layer seems pretty thick. The plated case stuck out better than nickel plating even. The copper didn't shine up like a normal case.

To make some up you dissolve copper in hydrogen peroxide and hydrochloric acid with a bubbler. Until it turns dark green.
 
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I don't load for 9x19 at the moment, so my trimmed 9x19 to 9x18 gets a black sharpie line on the case head. Imagine all your loaded rounds in the case, now imagine drawing five lines to mark 50rnds it takes a few seconds. And yes I do this after every reloading.
 
I use a steel marking stamp to mark the calibers that I make from similar brass ... the set I use has a sharp "X" in it and does not take much force to indent ... I stick a small round rod(one near the diameter of the inter neck) with a flat ground end in the vise ... slip the case over the rod ... set the "X" over the 9( in my case it is usually over the 7 of a 7mm Rem Mag that I have sized down to .264) ... the X means it is a .264 WM ...
 
Keep 'em separate from 9mm Para(.754" case length vs the .713" of the Markov. That's enough to see.) And/or use a different bullet.
 
I mark the headstamp with a Dremel. carefully of course. Usually just by scratching out the caliber stamp.
 
not completely permanent, but i have a few cases i shortened for a different project, that i dipped into Dykem machinists layout dye. it has lasted over 5 cycles of shooting, including tumbling and full length sizing. make sure the cases are good and dry before proceeding and you should be good to go at least for a while.
 
You could always take a small 3-cornered file and make a few notches on the rim. You can tell them by feel...
 
I have heard of powder coating the cases. Though you will need to size them after you coat them.
 
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