Personal Defense Handgun

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I always wondered about the "back up gun" being a smaller caliber. I mean, if you get in a situation so dire that you need a back up gun, shouldn't you have a more powerful gun for a back up. For example, If you use a 9mm then switch to a back uo of .380, if the 9 couldn't get the job done, the .380 sure won't. Wouldn't it make more sense to have a more powerful backup, like a Glock 29?
 
Thanks

I want to thank everyone for taking the time to answer my questions. I sincerely appreciate each and every comment.
I am very comfortable with my PPK but I think I'll move up to a Glock 33 .357 Sig. Even the smallest .45 1911 is too big. I came close to a Kimber Ultra Carry but the grip is just too fat. And the Glock's $300 less.
My wife suggested that I build a shadow box glass case for the PPK and retire it to the mantel piece, not a bad idea. It's a beautiful gun.
The larger pistol will take some getting used to but I practice a lot just for sport so it won't take long to get proficient. Getting comfortable carrying it may take a little longer.
I hope everyone contemplating buying a new NAA for over $400 and those considering a P3AT or Bersa reads this thread. I can get a new Glock 33 for $525 which is what I'm going to do.
You folks really enlightened me on the Glazers I thought they were hot stuff I can see now I was wrong. Cor-Bons for me from here on out.
Thanks again everyone, Bubba
 
Bubba (I had a good friend go by that handle), I'm really glad to see that this forum has done what it was designed to do. That being to educate people.

However, I don't think it's fair to say that your Walther is a substandard defensive weapon. I'd gladly carry it if the size and weight were such that it allowed me to carry it all the time. I can't count the number of times I've gone without a pistol simply because my style of dress precluded concealment. If that pistol comes to your hand quickly and you can put rounds down range with speed and accuracy, keep on carrying it.

Far better to have a .22 in the hand than a .45 in the dresser drawer!

For what it's worth, I'm seriously considering the Kahr P9 for a backup simply because it offers a slimmer cross-section and more ammo capacity than the traditional revolver. Those scandium/titanium revolvers are nice, but five shots and a stinging hand don't equal eight shots and an easy carry.

As for ammo, Glaser doesn't impress me. I've seen nothing but good reports on Speer Gold Dot hp's (including Border Patrol penetration tests) and carry it almost exclusively. The Hydrashock has been known to clog and not expand. The Corbon PowerBall is intriguing.....but I have to wonder.

+P is a plus if you can handle it. But I'd worry about tritium sights before I'd worry about ammo types. If you can't line up your sight picture, what does it matter the ammo fired?

And finally, welcome to the high road. Mighty glad to have you hear.
 
For concealed carry I'd probably choose a Kahr K9 or MK9. Compact gun, accurate, manageable recoil, reliable, sufficient power, few snaggable controls.

But then...what do I know, I'm from the state that illegalized self defense.
 
On a contrary note:

The "bigger gun" crowd is missing something: the fact that at very close ("bad breath") range, the snubby wheelgun in 38 or 357 simply dominates over any other type. It's difficult to grab away, fast to draw and operate (only one control, the trigger) and can't go out of battery on muzzle contact. While the advantages aren't huge, at that sort of horribly dangerous "red zone" range, every advantage is worthwhile.

And it's where a LOT of muggings/rapes/assaults happen.

Cirillo's method was to have a 38snub as "first at bat" weapon, with a larger piece (or two!) lined up behind that as reloads and for longer-range affairs.

Under this thinking, the snubbie becomes your "always on you" gun, always carried in the same place and always the first thing you reach for. If the potential hazards faced warrant it, you add more hardware in stages as needed (all the way to crew-served weapon system :D).
 
i don't feel undergunned with a 380... i carry my p232 with fed, hi-shocks almost exclusively (i speel good...) in the summer....

if penetration was a problem it wouldn't be that hard to load the other mag with fmj....

i don't think any size man on any type of drug wouldn't be stopped by 8 rnds of 380 as long as i can put em where they need to be..... if he hasn't stopped at 7 then you can pretty much guess where 8's going, and it's not in the head, well yeah it is i guess :eek:

if they're high or drunk they'll just bleed easier...
 
Swampbubba: Y'all OK...........

My own self-defense handgun standard is to keep all my shots in a paper-plate sized target at about 7 yards.

If you're doing that, you are doing just fine.

I'd keep that PPK if I were you; It probably has better workmanship than any similar-sized .380 currently being produced.

And, welcome to the High Road; glad you're here........
 
Mr. March, that's a very interesting way of looking at the subject. As a matter of fact, I believe you just might be on to something because, as you say, most conflicts are within grappling range. Makes me rethink the snubbie.
 
Regarding the issue of revolvers never firing out of battery, does a shrouded, or, better yet, internal, hammer create an added bonus?
 
Yes, the hammer type matters a little bit. With a standard hammer, there are ways of disabling the gun by throwing the web of your hand in front of the other guy's hammer. This often HURTS, esp. if it's got a hammer mounted firing pin (OW!) but it works...if the guy was stupid enough to cock it.

If he DOESN'T cock it, the way to disable a DA revolver is to grab the cylinder. But the (highly effective) counter to that is a "rollout" - step sideways, drop your elbow and then sharply twist the gun back out of his grip in a "rotary" motion.

The "hand web in behind the hammer" method has a weakness, and it's a big one: the off-hand of the guy trying to grab the gun away MUST come in under the gun and cradle it up into the hand doing the hammer block. In other words, both of the grabber's hands must make a try at the gun at the same time. Which leaves the gunman's hand free to do...whatever. Go for a knife, punch you in the throat, etc.

The "cylinder grab" can be done with one hand, if the goal is to tie up the gun-hand long enough to get a punch or knife thrust or club blow or other nastiness such as the "elbow fold" (described below). Which is why the guy whose gun just got grabbed must sidestep (generally to the outside) while rolling the gun free, to avoid that inevitable incoming "special delivery".

Now, all of this can happen with a slidegun too. The difference is, if you get a shot off while the slide is being grabbed, and the gun isn't pointed at him or doesn't do a disabling shot, the gun is now tied up until cleared. The moment you twist the snubbie away from a grab attempt, it doesn't matter if it fired during the grapple, it'll fire again when the trigger is pulled.

While we're on the subject: one effective way of grabbing a gun is to grab at the guy's gun-hand with one of yours, and with your other hand (or often, your other-arm forearm) fold his ebow up, twisting his whole body around and down by that arm (and breaking it, if possible). By taking his balance away, you prevent any counter attack, be it kicking or punching or knife or whatever.

Done right, it doesn't matter what gun the guy has.

Which is why, the MOMENT you feel your gun get grabbed, you start that sidestepping and dropping and twisting routine. Either the other hand will join that first at the gun, or he'll do the elbow fold and you're really screwed. In all of these cases, you're better off with a snub than anything else BUT that alone ain't a guarantee.

If it's not clear yet: all of this is basic knife technique adapted to the gun in close range messes. At close range, esp. since there's no problem with muzzle contact on firing, your snubby can be "used as a knife".
 
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