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Mike, I gotta ask. What is the purpose for removal of metal/clearancing of the inside curve of the hammer? I have done something similar when I find there is contact between the hammer and frame. It usually shows up on the hammer as a bright circular spot right where the arbor is staked at the back of the frame. I believe I read where Sam Colt originally designed a bit of clearance on the hammer so its inside curve didn't exactly match the curve of the frame. Either way, I find the extra clearance provides a bit more room so a fired cap doesn't get squished if it lands there and consequently prevents the bolt arm reset which locks up the action.
 
Mike, I gotta ask. What is the purpose for removal of metal/clearancing of the inside curve of the hammer? I have done something similar when I find there is contact between the hammer and frame. It usually shows up on the hammer as a bright circular spot right where the arbor is staked at the back of the frame. I believe I read where Sam Colt originally designed a bit of clearance on the hammer so its inside curve didn't exactly match the curve of the frame. Either way, I find the extra clearance provides a bit more room so a fired cap doesn't get squished if it lands there and consequently prevents the bolt arm reset which locks up the action.
Excellent!!!
I do this exactly to regain "reset" ability for the bolt. Many times when these revolvers are built to exacting tolerances, the original hammer face is too prominent to allow bolt reset ( the ability for the bolt arm to locate above the hammer cam) with a cap on the nipple ( even worse that on a spent cap!).
This particular hammer was in a revolver that was a "new in the box" birthday present for a good customer of mine ( actually his brother). Built to a high "custom" build, the hammer was "adjusted" for adequate reset ability. The cap pin clearancing has a "fouling stop" pin installed to reduce the amount of blowback through the nipple.
Good eye Navy Six!!

Mike
 
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