Pics of the hammer and trigger from my '51 Navy.

[BADUNAME30]

Here is a quote of mine from the original post below.

The issue is that the hammer would go to full cock and and would fire normaly using the trigger, but you could also apply forward pressure with your thumb to the hammer and it would 'fire' to the half cock position.
Now, the hammer won't lock into full cock at all.It feels like it's tryin to lock in but can't and snaps right back to the half cock position.
With this gun bein 25 years old my first aproach will be to take it down and clean it's innards but i spect i should know what to look for mechanicaly while i'm in there.

As i've stated before. I have no experience with wheel gun innards as far as 'tunin' goes so although this one looks to me to clearly have a trigger issue, I'm not knowing ecatly what to look for on these parts.

Here are two views of the trigger.



And a comparrison of this trigger(left one), along side a trigger from my no name italian '51 that ( to me) shows no issues.

Now the hammer from different views.

 

[rcmodel]

Yep! The trigger tip, or "sear" is broken clean off.

The hammer is also damaged, but should be salvagable with a little stone work.

rc

 

[BADUNAME30]

Thanx rc, i've never stoned a hammer before.
Do you have the experience to advise me or a source for guidence ?
With pics ?

 

[rcmodel]

No pics.

What I would do first is acquire a new trigger.

VTI should have parts.
http://www.vtigunparts.com/store/shopdisplaycategories.asp?id=103&cat=Uberti

Then stone the obvious burs and damage off the hammer safety notch.

The actual sear notch looks fairly good in the photo from what I can see of it, so leave it along until you try it with a new trigger.
If it does require stoning due to damage from the broking trigger scraping the sear notch, use a flat edge fine stone and maintain the square sear notch angle.

rc

 

[kBob]

Just for giggles, while you are waiting for a new trigger, file that trigger tip smooth and dress it up with a stone nice and square. I am told this is pointless as the exposed new steel will not be hardened. On the other hand in my experience it can work for a while. I suppose the hammer will not rest quite as far back at full cocok or even half cock, but in my experience not enough to prevent setting off caps.

DO go a head and get a nice new part, but see if the old can be made to work......and don't fan the hammer or slip shoot at all or follow the hammer down very often.

Or if you happen to have some casen-it, once you get the shape right if it works harden the part and use it until the next time you need to fix it and you will already have the part.

-kBob

 

[BADUNAME30]

No pics.

What I would do first is acquire a new trigger.

VTI should have parts.
http://www.vtigunparts.com/store/sho...103&cat=Uberti

Then stone the obvious burs and damage off the hammer safety notch.

The actual sear notch looks fairly good in the photo from what I can see of it, so leave it along until you try it with a new trigger.
If it does require stoning due to damage from the broking trigger scraping the sear notch, use a flat edge fine stone and maintain the square sear notch angle.

rc

Thanx rc, got the new trigger ordered from VTI last night.
Now i gotta go thru my old smithin tools and see if i still have any stones.

 

[BADUNAME30]

Just for giggles, while you are waiting for a new trigger, file that trigger tip smooth and dress it up with a stone nice and square. I am told this is pointless as the exposed new steel will not be hardened. On the other hand in my experience it can work for a while. I suppose the hammer will not rest quite as far back at full cocok or even half cock, but in my experience not enough to prevent setting off caps.

DO go a head and get a nice new part, but see if the old can be made to work......and don't fan the hammer or slip shoot at all or follow the hammer down very often.

Or if you happen to have some casen-it, once you get the shape right if it works harden the part and use it until the next time you need to fix it and you will already have the part.

-kBob

Good idea there Bob. It'll in the least gimme some stonin practice.

 

[St8LineGunsmith]

a precision file set and fine Emory boards will suffice.

 

[72coupe]

Well there is your problem!

 

[rcmodel]

I you do file, stone, grind, whittle, or whatever the tip of the broken trigger and decide to try it??

Make darn sure it isn't too thick on the end to fit inside the hammer safety notch!!

If it is, your problems might only be beginning!

rc

 

[BADUNAME30]

Thanx RC.

 

[St8LineGunsmith]

ya it will still have to have the same profile to function right.

 

[Hellgate]

One possible consideration: You gun may shoot seem to shoot higher if the shorter trigger changes the position on the arc the top of the hammer travels on to a higher location. As you cock the gun you'll see that the top of the hammer (rear sight) first rises up (relative to the front sight) and then drops back down as it approaches the bottom of its arc of travel where it comes to a full cock. With a shorter trigger the hammer will reach full cock a little sooner and thus be stopped at a higher point on the arc than before, in essence raising the rear sight. I've toyed with the idea of shortening triggers in order to bring up the POI but most all my Colts shot high to begin with and the Remingtons shot to POA or low, where I could just file off some of the front sight.